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In the ingredient descriptions: Good means that I like to see this in a product's list of ingredients. Okay means this product appears safe for a curly person like me to use. Caution means that this ingredient may not be good in some hair care products, or for some people. Avoid means this ingredient may hurt your hair. If you see this ingredient in a hair product, it's best to put it down and walk away.
Acai(aka Euterpe oleracea; Acai pulp oil) Okay
A berry from palms from Brazil that is considered by some to be the most nutritious food from the Amazon, containing proteins, amino acids, and anti-oxidants. It is also promoted as an anti-aging product, so it appears in many skin care and hair care products [Winter (7th ed.,) pg 42].
Source(s): Winter
Acetamide MEA(aka Ethanolamine) Okay
Used to condition hair because it's a humectant, and increases sheen. Increases the ease of wet-combing, and reduces static charge. this is also shown to increase the diameter of the hair fiber [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 94].—Hunting says it increases the diameter of the hair, and that makes me nervous. A high pH makes hair swell, but as long as the product that this ingredient is in has a more balanced pH for the hair, then that should be fine.—T Increases foam, and used as a thickener. There is concern that this should not be combined with nitrates, because it could create potential carcinogens. The FDA and CIR have concluded this ingredient safe for cosmetic use [Winter, Pg 43].
See also:Nitrosamines Source(s): WinterHunting http://www.realself.com/ingredient/acetamide-mea
Acetone Avoid
Can be very irritating to scalp and damaging to hair shaft. Found in hair sprays and nail polish removers.
Acetylated Okay
This basically means an ingredient has been concentrated by removing water from it. The water is removed using either Acetic anhydride or Acetyl chloride. Acetic anhydride by itself is known to be highly irritating, but products acetylated by it seem to be safe, such as Acetylated lanolin [Winter pg 45].
See also:Acetylated Source(s): Winter
Acetylated lanolin Okay
This is basically concentrated lanolin (lanolin with water removed). Used as an emollient. Repels water better than regular lanolin, because its water has been removed, so it's more concentrated. This means that when it's put on hair or skin, it prevents water loss, keeping the surface more moist. It's known to give a velvety feel to the product it's used in [Winter pg 45-46]. If you are allergic to lanolin, you will most likely be allergic to this as well.
See also:Acetylated Source(s): Winter
Acetyl Tyrosine Okay
Tyrosine is a non-essential amino acid that's also one of the building blocks of protein. It's put in skin creams to help the product penetrate the skin. It's often sold as a dietary supplement. It's primarily used in suntan products [Winter pg 45]. Used primarily as a skin conditioner. May also be used for tanning [Cosmetics Database].
See also:Amino acids Source(s): Winterhttp://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=700091
Achillea millefolium extract(aka Yarrow extract) Okay
Extract from the yarrow plant (often with feathery strongly scented leaves) that's often used in hair care products and cleansing lotions [Winter 7th edition pg 47].
Source(s): Winter
Alanine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun.
Alcohol Caution
This group of ingredients has a dual personality. One form of alcohol is emollient, moisturizing, and thickening; Cetyl alcohol and Stearyl alcohol are examples of these. The other half are very drying for skin and hair. SD alcohol, Ethanol, Ethyl alcohol, Methanol, Benzyl alcohol, Isopropyl alcohol, or Denatured alcohol are examples of the very drying "grain" type alcohols that should be avoided if possible. It's not as bad if it appears near the bottom of the ingredient list, because there is very little of it in the product to cause problems, but avoid if near the top of the list. Also, they aren't as bad if you have them in a product you will rinse out quickly.
See also:Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Source(s): Begounhttp://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Aleurites moluccana(aka Kukui) Good
See Kukui nut oil.
See also:Kukui nut oil
Alfalfa extract(aka Alfalfa powder, Alfalfa leaf powder) Okay
Extract of the plant Medicago sativa. This can be used as a flavoring ingredient in beverages that gives a maple-like flavor. Alfalfa is often grown as feed for livestock, as well as being a source of chlorophyll. Used in cosmetics for vitamins and protein [Winter pg 56]. May be a source of antioxidents in skin care products (but this can't help hair because hair isn't alive) [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1244].
See also:Extracts Source(s): WinterBegoun
Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate(aka Dodecylbenzene Sulfonates, Alkylbenzene Sulfonates, LAS) Avoid
"Can strip hair color. Strong, irritating, drying cleanser" [Begoun]. Though they are great at cleansing, they are irritating, and defatting. May also leave the skin feeling sticky, and perform poorly in hard water [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 133-134].
Source(s): BegounHunting
Allantoin Okay
Made from urea. Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though. Can soothe the skin—but rinsed away when it's in shampoo before it can do anything for it. Pg 202
See also:Urea Source(s): Begoun
Allspice Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
Source(s): Begoun
Almond extract Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 92
Source(s): Begoun
Aloe(aka Aloe Barbadensis/ Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice) Okay
Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though [Begoun Pg 202 }
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years (even though I'm sure it's in there in a very teeny amount). It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
* * Tried and true ingredient * * *
See also:Waxes Source(s): Begoun
Aloe vera(aka Aloe barbadensis) Okay
Since hair is dead, it can’t be repaired. Aloe has no effect on it. May act as a humectant, though.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde(aka Amyl cinnamal) Caution
Fragrance. Pale yellow liquid with a floral/ jasmine scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant
Alpha amyl innamic aldehyde Caution
Synthetic essential oil, greenish to yellowish in color. Strong jasmine scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.doc
Alpha hydroxy acids(aka AHA) Caution
Exfoliators. Great on skin, but since hair is dead, could potentially eat away the hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Alpha lipoic acid Okay
Has no effect on hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Alpha-tocopherol(aka Vitamin E) Okay
Emollient oil.
See also:Vitamin E
Aluminum stearate Okay
Used for lubrication, emulsifying, and thickening the oil portion of the product. It can also be used as an opacifier.
Source(s): http://www.CosmeticsInfo.org
Amia seed oil(aka Amlaica embilicus seed oi, Indian gooseberry oil) Okay
Oil made from the seeds and pulp of the fruit of a small leafy tree that grows in India. Rich in vitamin C. Known as the world's oldest hair conditioning oils.
Source(s): http://www.vaipani.com/herb_info.htm
Amine functional siloxane Caution
This is a group of modified Silicones (this means that other molecules have been added to the silicones that change its function or characteristics) that are known to have excellent hair and skin conditioning abilities, but can cause skin irritation. Some of the silicones in this group are Amodimethicone, Amodimethiconol, and Trimethylsilylamodimethicone [Schueller pgs 179-180].
See also:AmodimethiconeAmodimethiconolTrimethylsilylamodimethiconeSilicone Source(s): Schueller
Amino acids Okay
Amino acids are the building blocks that proteins are made from. There are many different types of amino acids, and each one functions slightly differently, though they all work on hair in basically the same way. Amino acids actually function in hair products as humectants more than anything else.(— However, hair is dead, so these can’t repair it any more than dumping bricks on a broken wall will fix the wall or pouring yarn on a sweater will fix your sweater.—T)
Amino acids are prepared by breaking down a protein (through hydrolysis) that's taken from a natural source (such as silk protein, collagen, or keratin), or the protein is made synthetically.
Amino acids are either mixtures of several different aminos, or they are a single amino acid (such as Cysteine or Proline). They are extremely water soluble. Amino acids are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft—and though they can't repair hair—they do help moisturize it.
Amino acids are usually added to products in such tiny amounts that there isn't enough of them present to do much for the hair. Often they are included for their marketing appeal more than for anything else [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 109].
See also:Protein Source(s): Hunting
Aminomethyl propanol(aka AMP) Okay
Used as an emulsifier. Winter pg 70.
Source(s): Winter
Amlica embilicus seed oil(aka Amla seed oil, Indian gooseberry oil) Okay
Oil made from the seeds and pulp of the fruit of a small leafy tree that grows in India. Rich in vitamin C. Known as the world's oldest hair conditioning oils.
Source(s): http://www.vaipani.com/herb_info.htm
Ammonium chloride Okay
“Alkaline salt used as a pH balancer in skin-care products; it is not used in concentrations that would be problematic for skin.”
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Ammonium thioglycolate Avoid
This is the more "gentle" of the thioglycolates. These are sometimes known as an “acid perm”, this is often used to make straight hair curly. Anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair. They are less damaging than lye products. This should never be used on hair that has been relaxed with lye chemicals, otherwise most bonds in the hair would be destroyed, and a severe loss of hair could occur. Pg 156
See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun
Ammonium xylenesulfonate Avoid
Laquer solvent. Will strip color from hair and may swell the hair shaft. Causes dryness.
Source(s): Winter
Amodimethicone(aka Amine functional siloxane) Caution
Used for conditioning, and makes it easier for a comb to glide through the hair. A type of silicone [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1247]. Amodimethicone is only used as a mixture with Tallowtrimonium chloride and Nonoxynol-10. This makes it an emulsion, so it can be used in a water-based products (Amodimethicone by itself is not water soluble). This is one of the lighter silicones because it's a mixture, and studies have found that it tends not to build up in the hair with repeated use [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 110]. This belongs to the Amino functional group of siloxanes. Though considered excellent hair conditioners, they are known to be irritating to the skin [Schueller pgs 179-180].—I'm putting this as a caution because one of the ingredients in this mixture, Tallowtrimonium chloride, has Isopropanol in it, which can be drying, and it's also very irritating to eyes and skin. This would be fine in something you would rinse out, or if it's pretty far down on the ingredient list. But I'd be really cautious about using this on a child, or if you have very sensitive skin.—T See also:SiliconeTallowtrimonium chlorideEmulsionNonoxynol-10Amine functional siloxane Source(s): BegounHuntingSchuellerhttp://asksilicone.com/pdfs/Amino_Silicones.pdf.http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curly-q-a/curlchemist-amodimethicone-and-other-amine-functionalized-silicones
Amodimethiconol(aka Amine functional siloxane) Caution
This belongs to a group of silicones that are known to have excellent hair and skin conditioning abilities, but can cause skin irritation [Schueller pgs 179-180].
See also:SiliconeAmine functional siloxane Source(s): Schueller
Amphoteric Surfactant Good
These are very mild cleansers. Every molecule of an Amphoteric Surfactant has components on it that allow it to have different charges (positive, negative, or neutral), depending on the pH of the medium they are in. Since these are so mild, they may not be able to totally clean the hair [Begoun (Hair) pgs 72-75, 80].
See also:Ion Surfactant Anion Cation Non-ionic Source(s): Begounhttp://www.scienceinthebox.com/en_UK/glossary/surfactants_en.html
Amyl cinnamal(aka Alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde) Caution
Fragrance. Pale yellow liquid with a floral/ jasmine scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): www.cosmeticsinfo.org
Amyl cinnamate Caution
Fragrance. Amber/ balsam/cocoa bean/ orchid scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.theGoodScentsCompany.com
Angelica Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Anisaldehyde Caution
Synthetic fragrance that smells like licorice. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant
Anise(aka Aniseed) Caution
Herb with edible leaves, seeds and flowers that taste a little like licorice. Related to fennel. May have strong antioxidant and antibacterial properties, but may be a skin irritant and cause photosensitivity.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-anise.htm
Anthemis nobilis(aka Chamomile flower extract; Chamomile extract) Caution
Perennial herb in the aster family with an apple-like aroma. Chamomile tea is made from the flowers. It has some antioxident, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Unfortunately, it may cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity, especially for those who are allergic to plants in the daisy family. Best not to use on a baby's skin. [Begoun (Cosmetics 7th ed.,) pg 1085].
Small daisy-like flowers with white petals and yellow centers actually make an essential oil that's pale blue. Is often put in hair rinses to highlight yellows in blond hair, or as a skin freshener, and even used as flavorings. However, it may cause contact dermatitis, and even an upset stomach if ingested [Winter 7th ed., pg 144].
Source(s): Winter
Apricot kernel oil(aka Apricot oil; Prunus armeniaca) Good
Oil made from the orange-colored fruit of the Prunus armeniaca tree [Winter 7th ed., pg 83]. A non-fragrant emollient oil made from the pressed pits of the apricot fruit [Begoun (Cosmetics) 7th ed., pg 1071].
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Apricot oil(aka Apricot kernel oil; Prunus armeniaca) Good
Please see Apricot kernel oil.
See also:Apricot kernel oil
Arachidic acid Okay
From peanut oil. Used as an emollient and thickener.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Arachidyl alcohol Okay
"Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics"
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Arachidyl propionate Okay
"Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics."
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Arachis hypogaea extract Okay
Extract from the peanut plant. It can be emollient and anti-inflammatory for skin.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Arginine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Arginine HCL(aka Arginine hydrochloride) Okay
Used for skin and hair conditioning that can come from either animal or synthetic sources [Gottschalk (12th ed.) pg 200].
To get more technical, this is an amino acid salt, which means it is made from an amino acid, and the amino acid is the part with a positive charge and HCL is the part with a negative charge to make the entire molecule neutral.
See also:Amino acidsSalts Source(s): Gottschalk
Arnica Extract(aka Arnica cordifolia; Wolfsbane; Arnica Montana; Arnica Montana Flower Extract) Caution
The dried heads of a daisy-like flower are what is usually used in cosmetics. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. [Begoun (Hair) Pg 94].
According to Winter [7th ed., pg 86], the flower heads have long been used as a skin astringent, however, it is known as an active irritant, and should never be used on broken skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Winter
Ascophyllum nodosum extract(aka Algae extract, Brown algae extract, Algues Brunes extract, Algin extract) Okay
A form of seaweed. There are over 20,000 different species of seaweed that we know of. Many of them have medicinal purposes and may contain proteins, vitamins, as well as function as emollients or antioxidents in hair and skin-care products [Begoun (Cosmetics) pgs 1244-1245, 1250].
See also:Extracts Source(s): Begoun
Ascorbyl palmintate Okay
A form of vitamin C.
See also:Vitamin C
Aspalathus lineris(aka Rooibos) Okay
Aspalathus lineris is an African tea from a shrub in the pea family with leaves that are aromatic when dried. Also known as rooibos. Sometimes used as a skin conditioner [Winter pg 89].
Source(s): Winter
Aspartic acid Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter(aka Palm oil; Elaeis melanococca oil; ) Good
Please see Palm oil.
See also:Palm oil
Avena sativa (aka Oat bran; Oat flour; Oatmeal) Okay
Please see Oats.
See also:Oats
Avena sativa peptide Okay
Please see Oat peptide.
See also:Oat peptide
Avocado(aka Persea gratissima) Caution
Though believed to be moisturizing, it can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. Pg 73.
Source(s): Begoun
Avocado oil Good
Excellent moisturizing plant oil. It can penetrate the hair's cortex, so it may make hair stronger. However, it has little effect on the cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. And nothing can repair hair once it's been damaged. Beauty Brains book pg 7 (quoting from an article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science 52, pgs 169-184), 2001)
Source(s): Beauty Brainshttp://www.theBeautyBrains.comhttps://www.cosmeticscop.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary.aspx
Awapuhi extract(aka Wild ginger; Zingiber) Caution
Hawaiians used the rhizomes of the wild ginger to their scent native cloth, tapa, as well as medicinally for cuts and bruises, and other skin diseases [Winter pg 91]. A plant in the Zingiber family used mainly for its rhizomes (thick bulb-like roots). Research has shown that when taken orally, ginger may have some anti-carcinogenic and anti-inflamatory properties. However, when used on the skin, it can be irritating. Though it seems to have some medicinal properties, it can do nothing for hair [Begoun (Hair) pg 97 & (Cosmetics) pgs 1252,1285].
Source(s): Begoun Winter
Babassu Oil(aka Orbignya Oleifera Oil) Okay
An edible oil from the kernels of the babassu palm, Orbignya barbosiana, grown in Brazil. Can be used in foods, but it's an expensive oil [Winter pgs 91, 378].
Source(s): Winter
Badian(aka Anise) Okay
An herb with a licorice flavor.
See also:Anise
Baking soda(aka Sodium bicarbonate) Avoid
Baking soda is often used as a clarifier, because it's natural. However, for the sake of your hair, never use baking soda. It's highly destructive to your hair. It's basically salt, and salt is highly corrosive (if you've ever seen what it does to the metal of cars in places where they use salt to melt the snow, you can get some idea. And if you've ever eaten something really salty, it often makes your lips sore).
See also:Sodium bicarbonate
Balm mint Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 73
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Balm mint oil Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Balsam Avoid
Tree resin. It can build up and harden on hair, making it brittle. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Balsam of Peru(aka Myroxylon pereirae) Avoid
A naturally derived fragrance made from tree resin. A study done by the Mayo clinic lists this as #7 of the top ten ingredients that can cause irritation. Beauty Brains pg 156. I'm putting this as an Avoid, because not only is it irritating, but it's also a resin, which are known to build up in the hair and make it brittle, dry, or sticky.—T See also:Irritant
Balsam oil Avoid
Can quickly build up and make hair feel dry and brittle. Pgs 247, 254.
Source(s): Begoun
Bambusa Vulagaris(aka Bamboo) Good
A member of the grass family with edible new shoots.
Source(s): Winter
Barley extract(aka Hordeum vulgare) Okay
Extract from barley plants. May be an antioxidant when ingested, but it can do nothing to heal hair [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1253].
Source(s): Begoun
Basil(aka Basil extract; Basil leaf extract; Ocimum basilicum; Ocimum basilicum extract) Caution
The extract from the leaves of the delicious herb, basil. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun (Hair) pg 94; Winter (7th ed) pg 100].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Winter
Batyl alcohol Okay
“Derived from glycerin and used as a stabilizing ingredient and skin-conditioning agent.”
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Beeswax Caution
Thickener that can be emollient. —This might be difficult to rinse out, depending on the formulation—T Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Behenic acid(aka Docosanoic acid) Okay
Fat found in seeds as well as animals. It's a fatty acid that's often used to make products look less transparent [Winter 7th ed., pg 102].
See also:Fatty acid Source(s): Winter
Behentrimonium Methosulfate(aka BTMS; Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Methosulfate) Okay
Used to condition the hair as well as cut down on static, and it's found in hair conditioners, bath soaps, and shampoos. It comes from both plant and synthetic sources. [Gottschalk pg 258].
See also:Quaternary ammonium compounds Source(s): Gottschalck
Behenyl alcohol(aka Docosanol) Okay
This is a fatty alcohol mixture made from Behenic acid (which is found in oils and fats). It's used as a thickener, to make the product less transparent, and to keep the product from separating. Not irritating or drying like the rubbing types of alcohol [Winter 7th ed., pg 102].
See also:Fatty alcoholBehenic acid Source(s): Winter
Benzalkonium chloride(aka BAK) Caution
Preservative. May be a skin irritant, though this is a risk with all preservatives. It is far safer to use a product with a preservative than to use a product without one. Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1254. Also used as a cleanser used in a wide range of products from hair products to lotions. Winter pg 101.
See also:Preservative Source(s): Begoun Winterhttp://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Benzoic acid Okay
Preservative. Thought to be less irritating than other preservatives. This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Benzoin Caution
Benzoin is a substance different from Benzoin resin, the resin from the benzoin tree (according to Wikipedia - see link). Benzoin is an off white crystal with a light camphor-like smell. However, in products, they may mean what comes from the benzoin tree. In which case, check out Styrax Benzoin.
See also:Styrax benzoin Source(s): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzoin
Benzoin resin(aka Styrax Benzoin) Avoid
Per Wikipedia, Benzoin resin is a resin obtained from the bark of several species of Styrax trees. It's used in perfumes, some kinds of incense, as a flavoring, and even medicine (such as tincture of benzoin). Commonly (but incorrectly) called "benzoin", since benzoin is actually a chemical compound that does not contain the crystalline compound Benzoin.
Benzoin resin is a common ingredient in making incense and perfumes because it has a sweet vanilla scent, plus it is a fixative. Gum benzoin is a major ingredient in church incense.
See also:Benzoin resinBalsam Source(s): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzoin_resin
Benzyl alcohol Caution
Can be drying and irritating in larger amounts. If it's low on the ingredient list, it's probably diluted enough that it wouldn't be a problem. —This is in some of my favorite conditioners, and so far, no problems—T
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another I've been using regularly for over five (even though I'm sure it's in there in a very teeny amount). It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Benzyl benzoate Okay
Often added to make a hard product more flexible, such as in nail polishes. Benzyl benzoate occurs naturally in Balsam Peru and Balsam Tolu, as well as other oils from flowers. It's a clear oily liquid, or can be in white crystals. It has a light floral scent [Winter pg 103-104].
Source(s): Winter
Bergamont Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Bergamont oil(aka Citrus aurantim bergamia oil) Caution
Made from the pear-shaped sour citrus fruit found mainly in Southern Italy. The essential oil is squeezed from its skin. Can make scalp photosensitve. — This may also be irritating for sensitive skin. —T See also:Lime oil Irritant Source(s): http://www.answers.com/topic/bergamot http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Betula alba extract(aka European white birch extract) Okay
Extract from the European white birch tree. The extract can be from the bark, leaves, buds, sap, or whole plant. Often used as a fragrance ingredient or skin conditioning. When the extract is from the leaves, it functions more as an astringent as well as for fragrance and conditioning [Gottschalck pgs 280-281].
Source(s): Gottschalck
BHA(aka Salicylic acid) Caution
Exfoliant. Fine on skin, but since hair is dead, just eats away the hair.
Source(s): Begoun
BHT(aka Butylated Hydroxytouene) Okay
A preservative and antioxidant used in cosmetics as well as in food. May cauase allergic reactions in some when used in food [Winter (7th ed) pgs 108, 122-123].
See also:Preservative Source(s): Winter
Biocide Okay
An ingredient that's used to prevent the growth of organisms, such as fungi, yeast, or bacteria. Winter pg 106.
Source(s): Winter
Biosaccharide gum-1 Caution
A gum made from sorbitol, that's used as a skin conditioner [Winter pg 106]. —I'm putting this as a caution because it's a gum, and I'm not sure if this is sticky and can build up in your hair or not . —T See also:Sorbitol Source(s): Winter
Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone Okay
Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone's function is listed as a hair conditioning agent.This is a modified silicone [Gottschalk pg 289].
—This is said to be much like Amodimethicone, and Amodimeticone is sold as a mixture with a few ingredients known to be irritating and/ or drying to the hair, this ingredient also makes me nervous. They may mean it's just a modified silicone, and that's how it's similar to Amodimethicone.—T
However, this is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over five years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Bisamo PEG/PPG 41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone Okay
Silicone used for hair conditioning [Gottshalk 12th ed., pg 288-289].
This is interesting. In Winter [pg 109, (7th ed.)], she says that Bisamo PEG/PPG 41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone is found in sweat. But the purpose of this ingredient when it's included in a product is to fight fungus. And it is supposed to smell like perspiration (even though what I have heard is that sweat itself isn't supposed to have a smell, it's what happens to it after the microbes get hold of it and it's their waste products that make it funky. But I can't remember where I've heard that from now.
See also:Silicone Source(s): GottschalkWinterhttp://www.theBeautyBrains.com
Bisulfite perms Avoid
Often known as “neutral” perms. These use sodium sulfite to break the bonds of the hair. These are less effective than perms or relaxers. However, anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Borago officinalis(aka Borage) Okay
Made from the herb Borago officinalis. It is somewhat emollient, and contains potassium and calcium [Winter pg 112].
Source(s): Winter
Borax(aka Sodium borate decahydrate) Avoid
"Borax is a mineral composed of sodium, boron, oxygen, and water. It has fungicide, preservative, insecticide, herbicide, and disinfectant properties. Borax functions as a bleaching agent by converting some water molecules into hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), which generates free-radical damage and is a problem for skin. The pH range of borax is about 9 to 11; therefore, it can be a significant skin irritant when used in cosmetics.”
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Brassica(aka Mustard oil) Caution
This is an oil from the seeds of a mustard plant. It's usually yellowish green with a very strong smell. It can intensely irritate the skin to the point that it can cause blisters if it isn't diluted. May cause allergic reactions [Winter pgs 114 and 359].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Winter
Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine Caution
This is used in products as a hair and skin conditioner made from both plant sources (from a plant in the Brassicaceae family—the same family as mustard, broccoli, cabbage) and synthetic sources [Gottschalk 12th ed., pg 315].
Marketed as a conditioning ingredient that is better than Cetrimonium chloride, Behentrimonium chloride, and Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. It is also said to make combing easier. —Since I'm paranoid, I never like to take the word of the actual manufacturer of an ingredient when they tell me it's great. I doubt they would say it's a bad ingredient.
I haven't found any objective information yet on this ingredient, so I researched what it's made from. From what I've gathered (and from pulling out my trusty Organic Chemistry text book), this is very much like Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine but made with a different, yet similar component. It's like using the same train with a different engine. So instead of a Stearic fatty acid (the Stearamidopropyl part), it's made from Brassica oil (the Brassicamidopropyl part).
According to Winter [pg 491], Hunting (Conditioning) [pg 395] and my Organic Chemistry book, it seems that the important element is actually the dimethylamine component. This is known to be pretty alkaline, and so can be corrosive if it isn't properly neutralized. I am putting the same cautions with this as I did with Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (which is in products I've used and been really happy with the results, though cautious about this ingredient), except slightly more cautious this time because it's made with Brassica oil, a mustard oil, which is known to cause severe skin irritation when applied directly to the skin.—T See also:Stearamidopropyl dimethylamineBrassica Source(s): WinterHuntingGottschalckhttp://www.inolex.com/cosmetic_ingredients/conditioning_ingredients/ProCondition_22
Brazil nut oil(aka Bertholletia excelsa) Good
Oil that's used for hair and skin conditioning. It comes from the nuts of the Brazil nut tree [Winter 7th ed., pg 116].
Source(s): Winter
Burdock extract Okay
Mild anti-inflammatory. Not useful in shampoos because it is rinsed away when you rinse off the shampoo.
See also:Extracts Source(s): Begoun
Burdock root Okay
Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though. Pg 202
Source(s): Begoun
Butter Okay
The cosmetic definition is a substance that is "solid at room temperature but melt[s] at body temperature"[Winter pg 119].
See also:Preservative Source(s): Winter
Butylated hydroxytoluene Caution
Preservative—may irritate scalp, though this is a risk with nearly all preservatives. It's thought to be far safer to use a product with a preservative than to use a product without one (without preservatives, the product would spoil, grow moldy, or be filled with bacteria).
See also:Preservative Source(s): Begoun
Butylene glycol(aka 1,3 Butanediol) Good
Excellent humectant, and it adds slipperiness. Very similar to Propylene Glycol [Begoun 1259, 1326]. This is known to be nearly nontoxic and nonirritating to regular skin. It's sold as a colorless solid that's water soluble. Butylene Glycol is thicker and less of a humectant than Propylene Glycol. Many times plant extracts are dissolved in Butylene Glycol. It also has some antimicrobial abilities, especially good at killing molds, but only when present in high amounts [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 130].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Butylphenyl methylpropional Caution
Synthetic fragrance with a floral-fresh scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.CosmeticsInfo.org
Butyrospermum parkii(aka Shea Butter, Karite) Good
Edible, slightly yellow to ivory colored emollient fat from the nut of the West African shea tree. Used for moisturizing and softening.
Source(s): http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1P3-583526661.html
Buxus chinensis(aka Jojoba oil; Jojoba liquid wax; Simondsia chinensis) Good
Please see Jojoba oil.
See also:Jojoba oil
C11-15 Pareth-3 Okay
Made from a mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 677].
See also:Polyethylene glycolFatty alcohol Source(s): Winter Gottschalck
C11-15 Pareth-5 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components. Often found in skin care products [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 677].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-7 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components. Often found in hair care products [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 677].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-9 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components. Found in hair conditioner, shampoos, hair grooming aids, hair dyes, permanents, and hair lighteners [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 677-678].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-12 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 677].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-15 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 678].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-20 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components, and to help ingredients dissolve easier into water [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 678].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-30 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components, and helps ingredients dissolve more easily in water [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 678].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C11-15 Pareth-40 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. The higher the number, the thicker it is. Used as a cleanser and to help ingredients dissolve more easily in water [Winter 7th ed., pg 125; Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 678].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
C12-15 alkyl benzoate Okay
Used as an emollient, lubricant, humectant and thickener.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
C12-15 alkylsulfate Avoid
Cleanser that can be drying and could strip hair of color. Pg 313.
Source(s): Begoun
C12-16 Pareth-9 Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol made from a mixture of fatty alcohols and ethylene oxide. Used to keep the oil and water components of a product from separating [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 682].
See also:Polyethylene glycolEthylene oxideFatty alcohol Source(s): Gottschalk
C12-18 acid triglyceride Okay
Used as an emollient, lubricant, humectant and thickener.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (aka Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate) Avoid In my research so far, this looks like it's the same thing as Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate. If so, this is a drying cleanser—T
C16-15 Pareth-9 Okay
Made from a synthetic mixture of Polyethylene glycol and Fatty alcohols. Used to keep product from separating into its oil and water components [Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 682].
See also:Fatty alcoholPolyethylene glycol Source(s): Gottschalck
C18-36 acid glycol ester Okay
This is a Fatty acid [Winter 7th ed, pg 124].
See also:Fatty acid Source(s): Winter
C18-36 acid triglyceride Okay
Used as an emollient, lubricant, humectant and thickener.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Calcium behenate Okay
Made from behenic acid and used as a wax [Winter 7th ed., pg 126]. This is classified as a soap, and it's used to thicken and keep products from clumping together [Gottschalck 12th ed, pg 374].
See also:Behenic acidWaxes Source(s): WinterGottschalck
Calcium gluconate Okay
Calcium gluconate comes in the form of odorless white crystals, used as a buffer and firming ingredient, as well as to protect the appearance of a product [Winter (7th ed) pg 127].
Source(s): Winter
Calcium hydroxide Avoid
Often found in “no-lye” relaxers and texturizers. It is still as harshly alkaline as lye. Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. Can cause severe burns on skin. Of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers. Pg 155.
See also:Lye pH Source(s): Begoun
Calendula extract(aka Marigold extract or Marigold oil) Caution
Calendula is the extract that comes from marigolds, the same reddish-orange flowers often found in gardens and yards. There is little research to show it does anything for the skin (and since hair is dead, it can do nothing for it), but there is a bit that shows it may have some anti-inflamatory and antioxident abilities. However, if you have ragweed allergies, putting this on your skin may cause a skin reaction [Begoun (Cosmetics 7th ed.) pg 1081].
Calphostin-C Avoid
May increase growth phase of hair follicle, but it’s considered toxic to healthy cells. Pg 234.
Source(s): Begoun
Camellia japonica(aka Green Tea; Camellia oleifera; Camellia sinensis) Good
Green tea comes from the leaves of an evergreen bush or small tree from Asia. In addition to the beverage, green tea is used as a scent in perfumes. As a beverage, it has been found to have anti-oxidant properties [Winter 7th ed., pg 130]. Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though [Begoun pg 202].
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Camellia oleifera(aka Green Tea; Camellia sinensis; Camellia japonica) Good
Green tea comes from the leaves of an evergreen bush or small tree from Asia. In addition to the beverage, green tea is used as a scent in perfumes. As a beverage, it has been found to have anti-oxidant properties [Winter 7th ed., pg 130]. Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though [Begoun pg 202].
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Camellia sinensis(aka Green Tea; Camellia oleifera; Camellia japonica) Good
Green tea comes from the leaves of an evergreen bush or small tree from Asia. In addition to the beverage, green tea is used as a scent in perfumes. As a beverage, it has been found to have anti-oxidant properties [Winter 7th ed., pg 130]. Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though [Begoun pg 202].
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Camphor Caution
May cause scalp irritation.
Source(s): Begoun
Cananga odorata(aka Ylang ylang) Caution
See Ylang ylang.
See also:Ylang ylang
Capric acid Okay
This is often made from plants, and is sold as a solid, stinky, crystalline mass that's used to make artificial fruit flavors in lipsticks, and perfumes [Winter pg 132].
Source(s): Winter
Capric triglyceride Okay
Used as a thickener and emollient. Derived from coconut. Pg 1261.
Source(s): Begoun
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride Good
This is made from a mixture of Caprylic and Capric acids. Used for heavy conditioning, and as an emollient. Considered nontoxic and nonirritating. This is a colorless to pale yellow, oily liquid that isn't very soluble in water. It's usually sold as a synthetic oil, though it does occur naturally in coconut oil and other similar oils [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 169].
See also:Capric acidCaprylic acid Source(s): Hunting
Caprylic acid Okay
“Lubricant and emollient, often less oily or greasy that plant or mineral oils and, therefore, give the hair a soft, velvety feel without making it feel heavy or thick" [Begoun (Hair)]. A liquid oil that occurs naturally in sweat, milk, and in palm and coconut oil, though it's often made synthetically. Often used in perfumes [Winter pg 132].
Source(s): BegounWinter
Capryl isostearate Okay
Light emollient with little oiliness. Often used as a substitue for cyclomethicones (silicones that give a slippery feel when wet, then evaporate).
See also:Ester Source(s): http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6126951/fulltext.html
Caprylyl glycol(aka Capryl glycol) Okay
Used for conditioning and as an emollient that's made from both plant and synthetic sources [Gottschalck pg 423]. Made from capric acid and glycol [Winter 7th ed, pg 133].
See also:GlycolCapric acid Source(s): WinterGottschalck
Carbomers Caution
Gel-like thickeners that tend to flake in high concentrations. Pg 575.
Source(s): Begoun
Carrier ingredient(aka Backbone ingredient) Okay
These are ingredients that are carriers for the other ingredients. This means the bulk of the product will be made up of these "backbone" ingredients, and then the rest of the ingredients are added to it in much smaller amounts, like "flavoring", sort of like water is the carrier ingredient for the lemon juice and sugar that make lemonade.
Source(s): http://thebeautybrains.com/2015/10/how-do-you-moisturize-curly-hair-episode-104/
Casein(aka Milk protein; Milk conditioner) Okay
Casein is the protein that's found in milk. Actually, cow's milk only has about 3% casein in it, which is extracted by acidifying cow's milk. Often the casein is sold as a white powder or grainy solid that's really difficult to dissolve in water.
Since casein doesn't dissolve easily in water, it isn't absorbed into the hair, so it can't be used for conditioning. this means it's mostly put in to make the product opaque, as well as for its marketing appeal. However, if the casein is broken down through hydrolysis, turning it into hydrolyzed milk protein, then this actually is a good conditioning ingredient. Often, when a product says it has milk in it, the product may really have hydrolyzed milk protein in there to do the job [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 280]..
Source(s): Hunting
Castile soap Caution
A soap (soaps are made from a reaction between an oil and a strong alkali like sodium hydroxide) made from olive oil that can severerly dry out the hair, and irritate the scalp [Begoun (Hair) 253].
Castile soap is a hard soap usually white, but sometimes off-white or even green. It's named after the region in Spain where it was first made using olive oil and sodium hydroxide [Winter pg 138].
See also:Soap IrritantSodium hydroxideOlive oil Source(s): BegounWinter
Castor oil(aka Palm Christi oil; Ricinus oil) Caution
Oil from the bean of the castor plant Ricinus communis. Used as an emollient, conditioner, and for it's folkloric appeal. The oil is often removed from the beans by cold-pressing, solvents, or from hot water.
Surprisingly, when the oil is removed by extraction, it's often darker in color, and may contain ricin, one of the most highly toxic proteins known. Ricin is found in the castor plant seeds. However, castor oil itself shouldn't contain any ricin.
Castor oil is usually available as a colorless or pale, yellowish liquid with a particular odor. It isn't water soluble, but it is soluble in vegetable oils or ethanol [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 137-138].
Castor oil is used in all kinds of products ranging from bath oils, solid perfumes, shaving creams, lipsticks, as well as shampoos, hair dressings and conditioners. It forms a shiny, tough skin when dried. The toxin ricin should be left behind in the beans when the oil is removed. It's known to be soothing to the skin [Winter pg 138].
—I'm going to put this as a caution for now because there could be some residual toxin from the bean left over in the oil. It seems the oil is safe to use as long as it's extracted properly.—T Source(s): HuntingWinter
Cetearyl alcohol Good
Used as an emollient, emulsifier, conditioner, and thickener. Not the same as SD alcohol or ethanol. This is a "backbone" ingredient, which means it usually makes up the bulk of the product and acts as a carrier for the other ingredients.This is actually a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 142]. This is one of the ingredients I like to see near the top of a conditioner's ingredient list. When left in very curly hair it adds needed weight without being greasy.—T
***Tried and True ingredient***
See also:Fatty alcoholCetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Carrier ingredient Source(s): Huntinghttp://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Cetearyl glucoside Okay
Made from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. Emulsifier.
Source(s): Begoun
Ceteth-2(aka Polyethylene (2) Cetyl Ether; PEG-2 Cetyl Ether) Okay
Used to keep the product mixed so it does not separate into its oil and water components, as well as a thickener. Made from a mixture of Cetyl Alcohol, Lauryl Alcohol, Stearyl Alchohol, and Oleyl Alcohol, mixed with a gas (Ethylene Oxide) [Winter (7th ed.,) pg 142].
Hunting says that this ingredient is made from Cetyl Alcohol and Ethylene Oxide, but anyway.... This comes as a white, waxy solid which is water soluble. Found to be emollient and non-irritating to skin. Ceteth-2 is often used because it is found to be mild, and stable at various pH levels. It is easier to mix into ingredients than Steareth-2 [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 144].
See also:Ethylene oxideCetyl alcoholLauryl alcoholStearyl alcoholOleyl alcoholSteareth-2 Source(s): WinterHunting
Cetrimonium Bromide Caution
Detergent used as a disinfectant and cleanser in shampoos and skin cleansers. May also be used in deodorants to cut down on perspiration odor. Can be irritating to skin and eyes. [Winter 7th ed., pg 143, Begoun (Hair) pg 75].
See also:Quaternary Ammonium Compound Source(s): WinterBegoun
Cetrimonium chloride Okay
Used for detangling and smoothing hair. It also functions as an anti-static and emulsifier (keeps product from separating). This also inhibits the growth of organisms (like fungi, bacteria or yeast) in the product [Gottschalck pg 331].
See also:Quaternary Ammonium CompoundBiocide Source(s): Gottschalck
Cetrimonium methosulfate Okay
Mild quat. Provides thickening, softening and conditioning. Antimicrobial, anitistatic, emulsifying, hair conditioning and surfactant.
See also:Quat Source(s): http://ec.europa.eu
Cetyl alcohol(aka 1-hexadecanol, palmityl alcohol, C16 alcohol, hexadecanol) Good
Common ingredient used as an emollient, thickener, and keeping the product mixed together. Considered a "backbone" ingredient - [per The Beauty Brains link] this is used as a (common) carrier for the other ingredients. Non-greasy. Can be made from coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically. Not found to be an irritant. Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1264. Also used to increase foam, and to make a product less transparent. Used in a wide range of products, from hair conditioners to facial cleansers [Gottschalck pg 332]. Cetyl alcohol is the oldest known of the various fatty alcohols. It's been around since 1813. It is known as being a very safe ingredient, and is very compatible with other ingredients [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 147-148]. I often use this as an ingredient to help weigh down my hair without being greasy or sticky.—T
This is in two of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and it's also in another conditioner I use frequently for about five years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Cetyldimonium phosphate(aka Hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium phosphate) Okay I haven't found much on this, so it may actually be Hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium phosphate.—T See also:Hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium phosphate
Cetyl esters(aka Cetyl esters wax) Okay
Cetyl esters is a synthetic wax used to replace spermaceti (wax that once came from sperm whales). Used as an emollient, thickener, keeping products from separating, and to make them more opaque.
Sold as a white wax that's insoluble in water, but it is soluble in mineral and vegetable oils.It's similar to cetyl alcohol, but it's a bit more emollient [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 148-149].
See also:Waxes Source(s): Hunting
Cetyl hydroxycellulose Okay
Used to keep products from separating. Winter pg 144.
Source(s): Winter
Chamomile extract(aka Chamomile Recutita flower extract; Camomile; Anthemis nobilis; Ormenis multicaulis; Matricaria recutita; Chamomilla recutita) Caution
Perennial herb in the aster family with an apple-like aroma. Chamomile tea is made from the flowers. It has some antioxident, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Unfortunately, it may cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity, especially for those who are allergic to plants in the daisy family. Best not to use on a baby's skin. [Begoun (Cosmetics 7th ed.,) pg 1085].
Small daisy-like flowers with white petals and yellow centers actually make an essential oil that's pale blue. Is often put in hair rinses to highlight yellows in blond hair, or as a skin freshener, and even used as flavorings. However, it may cause contact dermatitis, and even an upset stomach if ingested [Winter 7th ed., pg 144].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun (Cosmetics)Winterhttp://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1E1-chamomil.html
Chelating agent Okay
Examples are tetrasodium EDTA and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine. These bind with metal ions or compounds and keeps them from sticking to hair (or other surfaces), so they can be rinsed away. Keeps ingredients from binding with trace elements (such as metals), or other elements that could cause unwanted changes in the color, texture or odor of a product.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Chinchona Okay
Homeopathic remedy for ringing in the ears, but no research to show it works iin hair. Pg 537
Source(s): Begoun
Chitin Caution
This is a sugar made from the exoskeletons of marine invertebrates. It's used to thicken products, but it's also used as an abrasive. Gottschalk pg 347.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Gottschalck
Chitosan Caution
Made from crab shells (chitin) which can cling to hair and make it feel thicker. Pg 394. —This might not be what tightly curly hair needs, however.—T It's also used as a film former and to hold hair in place. Gottschalck pg 347.
See also:Film formerChitin Source(s): BegounGottschalck
Chitosan Lactate Caution
Made from Chitosan. Used as a film former and fixative (holds hair in place). Gottschalck pg 347. I'm putting this as a caution if it appears in shampoos or conditioners because it can build up in our hair, and make it more difficult to comb. It's fine in gels and such, because they are supposed to be making your hair stick together. — T See also:ChitosanFilm former Source(s): Gottschalck
Chitosan PCA Okay
Thickens and gives slip to a product (Begoun). Humectant and film-former. Often found in hair dyes, conditioners and shampoos. Gottschalck pg 348.
See also:ChitosanHumectantFilm-former Source(s): BegounGottschalck
Chlorhexidine Avoid
A white powder often used to sterilize the skin in liquid cosmetics. May irritate the skin because it's very alkaline [Winter pg 147]. This is mainly used as an antiseptic.
Source(s): Winterhttp://organizedwisdom.com/Chlorhexidine
Chlorhexidine digluconate Avoid
A white powder often used to sterilize the skin in liquid cosmetics. May irritate the skin because it's very alkaline [Winter pg 147].
See also:Chlorhexidine Source(s): Winter
Chlorhexidine dihydrochloride(aka Chlorhexidine) Avoid
Derived from Methanol, the salt of Chlorhexidine, and Hydrochloric acid. Used as a solvent [Winter pg 147].
See also:Chlorhexidine Source(s): Winter
Chlorphenesian Okay
Preservative.
See also:Preservative
Chlorphenesin Okay
Preservative. This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
CI 19140 (aka Yellow 5) Okay
Cosmetic colorant [Winter pg 549].
See also:Preservative Source(s): Winter
CI 42053(aka Green 3; Fast Green) Okay
See Green 3.
See also:Green 3
CI 42090(aka Blue 1) Okay
FD & C coloring ingredient often found in shampoos, bath products, and skin care products. Known to be very soluble in water, but can be affected by light [Winter pg 111, 527].
Source(s): Winter
CI 47005(aka Yellow 10) Okay
See Yellow 10.
See also:Yellow 10
CI 60730(aka Ext. D&C Violet No. 2; Ext Violet 2) Caution
See Ext Violet 2
See also:Ext Violet 2
CI 714700(aka Red 4) Okay
Coloring ingredient.
Cinnamic alcohol Caution
Hyacinth scent. A component in natural fragrances, such as cinnamon leaves, hyacinth oil, Balsam of Peru. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.doc
Cinnamic aldehyde Caution
Yellowish, oily liquid. Very strong spicy scent like cinnamon. A component of cinnamon oil. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.doc
Cinnamon Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
CIR Expert Panel(aka CIR) Okay
This is a panel that reviews the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics. It was established in 1976 by the Personal Care Products Council (called the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) at the time). The decisions made by this panel is then available for the public [Winter 7th ed., pg 155].
Source(s): Winter
Citral Okay
This is a food and beverage flavoring that's also used in perfumes, furniture polish, and soaps for it's lemony scent. Occurs naturally in citrus fruits, as well as peaches, and ginger, but it may also be made synthetically [Winter pg 157]
Source(s): Winter
Citric Acid Okay
Very popular acid used in cosmetics. It is made from citrus fruits by fermenting their sugars.Used as a pH adjuster to make products more acidic. It is also used as a preservative and to keep the product it is in from foaming too much, as well as an astringent. It may also be used to increase flexibility or stretchability of a product [Winter 7th ed., pg 156].
Source(s): Winter
Citronellol Caution
Fragrant chemical that occurs naturally in many plant oils, certain fruits annd bevererages. Pale yellow oily liquid that has a scent of "sweet, rose, leather, musty, and floral." Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.epa.gov
Citrulline Okay
An amino acid that's used mainly to condition skin [Winter pg 157].
See also:Amino acids Source(s): Winter
Citrus Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Citrus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Seed Oil(aka Sweet Orange Seed Oil) Caution
Okay, this is odd. I think this is a mistake, and what this really is is for Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis, Sweet Almond Oil. There is no such thing as Citrus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Oil. However, there is a Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange ) Fruit Extract.
Citrus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Seed Oil was listed as an ingredient of a shampoo. When I went to look it up, there is no record of this particular ingredient. Not even in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook.
See also:Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange ) Fruit Extract Source(s): WinterGottschalck
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract Okay
Extract from oranges. Generally considered safe but may be irritating to sensitive skin because it is acidic. Found in lots of products, from skin products, cleansers, hair products [Gottschalk pg 604]
Source(s): Gottschalkhttp://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=1818
Citrus Grandis (aka Grapefruit) Caution
Often used in cleansing products and skin care products [Winter (7th ed pg 157]. Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun (Hair) Pgs . Pg 73, 94].
See also:Lime oil Irritant Source(s): WinterBegoun
Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Oil(aka Lemon Fruit Oil; Lemon Oil; Fo Shou Gan; Cedro Oil) Caution
The oil made from the pressed peels of lemons that evaporates on exposure to air. Used for food flavorings and in perfume. May cause an allergic reaction. especially if exposed to sunlight. It has been recommended by the International Fragrance Association that anywhere lemon oil will be in contact with skin that will not be rinsed off should not be more than 2% of the product it is in. There have also been recent research that shows it may have beneficial antioxidant properties for the skin [Winter 7th ed., pg 325].
Source(s): Winter
Clay Caution
Does not moisturize hair. It may actually chip away at the cuticle, making your hair drier (note: clay plus wax is very difficult to get out of the hair). Pg 278
Source(s): Begoun
Clove Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Clover Blossom Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Coal Tar Caution
Used as a treatment for dandruff (Ionil-T, Pentrax, T-Gel, Tegrin uses this). Kills microbes that can cause dandruff. Best for stubborn dandruff. Controversial ingredient because studies have shown it to be carcinogenic for those breathing it for decades. No evidence yet there is harm in shampoos. Drying for scalp and hair. Also produces photosensitivity.
A thick liquid or tar made from coal. Products made with Coal Tar may cause irritation, allergic reactions, hives, and even acne. For the countries that do consider Coal Tar products dangerous, the danger is minimal so long as the product with it in there is rinsed off, then it's felt to be okay [Winter (7th ed) pg 159].
Source(s): BegounWinter
Cocamide DEA(aka Cocamide diethanolamide) Caution
Cocamide DEA is used to create lather, for controlling the thickness of a product, and even for some (very slight) conditioning. It's nontoxic, but may be a mild skin and eye irritant.Though there is some concern that it may possibly be a source of nitrosamines, which have been shown to cause cancer in laboratory animals, it's been used for over 40 years in cosmetics and personal care products and considered safe.
Cocamide DEA is derived from coconut oil, and is a clear, light yellow liquid that's water soluble [Hunting (Shampoos) pgs 182-184].
Source(s): Hunting
Cocamide MEA Caution
Cocamide MEA is used to create lather and stabilize the bubbles in a product, improve the thickness, and for some conditioning. It's nontoxic, but may be a mild skin and eye irritant.
It is a waxy, off-white solid that's sold in blocks or flakes. It performs similarly to Cocamide DEA, except that it's solid, and used where a product needs heavy-duty thickening [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 184].
Source(s): Hunting
Cocamidopropyl betaine(aka Coco betaine) Okay
Gentle cleanser that may be too mild to wash away any styling products by itself [Begoun (Hair) pg 74]. This is very often the main cleansing ingredient in baby shampoos. Often used to increase the suds in a product, though it is a mild foamer. Also used for its cleansing properties and its ability to increase the thickness of a product, as well as reduce the irritation from a harsher cleanser that may also be in the shampoo. Cocamidopropyl betaine is known to be practically nontoxic and nonirritating to the skin, which is what makes it great for reducing the irritation in harsher cleansers it's combined with. It also has some moisturizing properties.
This is a clear, yellowish liquid that's water soluble. It may contain some sodium chloride, though there are versions available with a low salt content [Hunting (Shampoo) pgs 184-185].
See also:Ampoteric surfactant Source(s): BegounHunting
Cocamphocarboxyglycinate-propionate Okay
Gentle cleanser that may be too mild to wash away any styling products. Begoun pg 74.
Source(s): http://www.theBeautyBrains.comBegoun
Cocamphodiacetate(aka Disodium cocamphodiacetate ) Okay
This is a shortened version of Disodium cocamphodiacetate, which is a mild cleanser made from coconut oil [Winter pg 212]. —When this is put in water, the "sodium" portion of this ingredient separates from the cocamphodiacetate portion, leaving the cocamphodiacetate to do the work.—T Source(s): Winterhttp://www.cosmeticscop.com/ingredient_dictionary.aspx?lid=502
Cocoa butter(aka Theobroma cacao) Caution
Cocoa butter is used for conditioning and as an emollient. It's a yellowish- white, solid fat pressed from roasted cocoa (chocolate) beans. It's not water soluble, and has a slight chocolate taste and scent. Surprisingly, it may cause allergic skin reactions for some, but it's also used in foods].
This fat melts at body temperature, and is mainly used for candy and chocolate-making, but may also be used as a lubricant and conditioner [Winter 7th ed., pg161, 518; Hunting (Conditioning) pg 159].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Cocoa seed butter(aka Theobroma cacao seed butter; Theobroma oil) Caution
Cocoa butter is used for conditioning and as an emollient. It's a yellowish- white, solid fat pressed from roasted cocoa (chocolate) beans. It's not water soluble, and has a slight chocolate taste and scent. Surprisingly, it may cause allergic skin reactions for some, but it's also used in foods [Winter 7th ed., pg161, 518].
See also:EmollientCocoa butter Source(s): Winter
Coconut Okay
“Has degreasing and cleansing properties, which is why detergent cleansing agents are frequently derived from coconut oil.”
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Coconut Acid Okay
Cleansing and foaming ingredient that may also help water wet the hair more efficiently, as well as help thicken the product. Found in shampoos, detergents, cold creams, and bath soaps. Fatty acids made from Coconut oil. One of the main components of Coconut Acid is Lauric acid, which is known to be irritating to the skin and eyes.
Though coconuts are not grown in the US, the majority of shampoos contain cleansing agents made from either Coconut Acids or Lauric Acids because it is inexpensive to obtain, and they react easily to make various other materials and ingredients. They also foam quite well. When Coconut Acid is added to a shampoo, it usually so that a soap can be formed. The soap may then be created by adding some sort of base to it, (like even sodium hydroxide, so beware of "soap" shampoos for this reason). However,
[Winter (7th ed.,) pg 162; Hunting (Shampoo) pg 188].
See also:Coconut oilFatty acidsSoap Source(s): WinterHunting
Coconut oil(aka Cocos Nucifera) Good
Coconut oil is white, semisolid fat made by pressing coconut kernels. Often used is soaps, shampoos, and shaving, and it lathers easily. Very good moisturizing oil. Can penetrate the cortex, so it may be able to make hair stronger. Not as much effect on cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. Also, it can't repair hair. Once hair has been damaged, nothing can repair it [Winter (7th ed., pg 162; Beauty Brains book pgs 5, 27].
Beauty Brains quoted from an article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science 52, pgs 169-184, 2001 that did a study and found coconut oil did strengthen hair better than mineral oil did)—T
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Coconut oil soap Caution
A soap (soaps are made from a reaction between an oil and a strong alkali like sodium hydroxide) made from coconut oil that can severerly dry out the hair, and irritate the scalp. Pg 253.
See also:Soap Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Collagen(aka Soluble collagen; Tropocollagen; Hydrolyzed collagen, Hydrolyzed animal protein) Okay
Collagen is a type of protein found in animal tissue such as ligaments, tendons, bone, or skin. Collagen fibers are long and thin. They aren’t water-soluble. Collagen can be further broken down by hydrolysis into Gelatin, Hydrolyzed animal protein and Collagen Amino acids, all of which may be used in conditioners.
Collagen is known to make a more rigid film on the hair, and it tends to flake. Since Collagen by itself isn’t water soluble, and therefore isn’t moisturizing, it’s most likely that it’s Soluble collagen that’s actually being used.
Collagen is also put in products for its marketing appeal. Since aging causes us to lose collagen, it’s believed that applying it can restore youth and health. However, even if this can help reduce aging when it’s topically applied to the skin, it cannot help the hair, since not only is our hair not alive, but it’s also make of keratin-—not collagen.
(see also: Soluble collagen) [Hunting (Conditioning) Pages 349-352 & 161-162].
See also:Protein Source(s): Hunting
Collagen Amino Acids Caution
This is a very strong humectant, helping pull water in from the hair more so than even glycerin. This also binds really well to the hair. Collagen amino acids are a mixture of amino acids that come from purified Collagen that has been broken down by hydrochloric acid. This mixture is composed mostly of the amino acids Glycine, Proline, Hydroxyproline, Glutamic acid, Alanine, and Arginine. It has strong marketing appeal because it’s seen as a natural ingredient. It’s available as a yellow liquid that may or may not contain salt. The version that contains salt may contain up to 20% Sodium chloride [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 162].
See also:CollagenProteinAmino acidsSodium chloride Source(s): Hunting
Comfrey extract(aka Symphytum officinale; Comfrey root extract) Caution
The roots and rhizomes of the comfrey plant are what is often used for extracts. Often used in eye makeup,lotions, cleansers, and facial products. Herbalists have recommended using comfrey externally for rapid healing of bruises, wounds and even bones, as well as for compresses. It is considered toxic if taken internally and can cause liver damage [Winter (7th ed.) pg 169].
Source(s): Winter
Copolymer Caution —When I see this at the end of any ingredient in a shampoo or conditioner, I get nervous. This tends to mean the ingredient will be sticky, and can build up with repeated use. Since I'm paranoid, I avoid it (but it's fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, because they are meant to be sticky and have hold).—T
Copper peptide Okay
Often marketed that it can stimulate hair growth, but there is no proof that it can do so. Pgs 64, 240
Source(s): Begoun
Coriander oil Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Corn Oil(aka Zea Mays Oil) Caution
See Zea Mays Oil.
See also:Zea Mays Oil
Coumarin(aka Cumarins; Coumarin; Tonka Bean) Caution
See Coumarins.
See also:Coumarins Source(s): Winter
Coumarins(aka Cumarin; Tonka Bean) Caution
Used for fragrance that's made from tonka beans and several other plants, but can be made synthetically as well. May irritate the skin, and is not allowed to be used in foods because it's toxic when eaten [Winter pg 175].
Source(s): Winter
Creatine Okay
Useless for hair. Creatin helps the body form ATP, but hair is dead, so this won't help it. Pg 272
Source(s): Begoun
Crotonates Caution
Sticky. Film former.
Crotonic acid Caution
Film former. Sticky
Cumarin(aka Coumarins; Coumarin; Tonka Bean) Caution
See Coumarins.
See also:Coumarins
Cyclodextrin Okay
Cyclodextrin is used to improve the stability and water-absorbing abilities of the product. It's also used to bind with and remove unwanted trace metals [Winter pg179].
See also:DextrinChelating agent Source(s): Winter
Cycloheptasiloxane(aka Cyclomethicone; Polydimethylcyclosiloxane) Good
A type of Silicone known as a Cyclomethicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner, and increases slip in products [Schueller pgs 172-173]. See Cyclomethicone.
See also:Cyclomethicone Source(s): Schueller
Cyclohexasiloxane(aka Cyclomethicone; Polydimethylcyclosiloxane) Good
A type of Silicone known as a Cyclomethicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner, and increases slip in products. The main difference between this type of cyclomethicone and others is a slight difference in its structure [Schueller pgs 172-173]. See Cyclomethicone.
See also:Cyclomethicone Source(s): Schueller
Cyclomethicone(aka Polydimethylcyclosiloxane) Good
"Cyclomethicone" is actually used for a group of silicones with a ring structure. They are used to give a slippery feel, increase gloss and to make combing easier. They are "temporary" conditioners, meaning that while they are wet, they help with combing, and give a nice feel to skin or hair, but they do evaporate. They are clear, odorless, nonstaining, nongreasy, nonwaxy, nonsticky, and considered to be nonirritating to the skin and eyes. They are not soluble in water, but they do evaporate (without leaving a "cooling" feel as they do evaporate). Because they evaporate, they do not build up [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 170-171]. Some examples of Cyclomethicones are Cyclopentasiloxane (has 5 siloxane bonds in its ring), Cyclohexasiloxane (6 siloxane bonds), and Cycloheptasiloxane (7 siloxane bonds). The larger the ring (the more bonds), the slower they are to evaporate [Schueller pg 172-173] Makes product slippery so comb (or Denman) glides more easily through your curls. —T
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Cyclopentasiloxane(aka Cyclomethicone) Good
A type of Silicone known as a Cyclomethicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner and increases slip in lots of products, including lipsticks, makeup, lotions, and conditioners [Gottschalck pg 491, Winter pg 179]. This helps the comb (or Denman) glide through our culrs much easier. It tends to have a drier feel than other silicones once it dries. Some sources have said it evaporates after it dries. I'm not totally sure if it does. This is one of the main ingredients in one of my favorite conditioners I've been using for nearly a decade. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Cyclophenylmethicone Okay
Used for conditioning. Gottschalck pg 492.
See also:QuatSiloxane Source(s): Gottschalck
Cyclotetrasiloxane(aka Cyclomethicone) Okay
Silicone that's used for hair and skin conditioning. Found in moisturizers, makeup, and hair care products [Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 718].
See also:Silicone Source(s): Gottschalck
Cyclotrisiloxane(aka Cyclomethicone; Polydimethylcyclosiloxane) Good
A type of Silicone known as a Cyclomethicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner and increases slip in products [Schueller pgs 172-173]. See Cyclomethicone.
See also:Cyclomethicone Source(s): Schueller
Cysteine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Dehydrogenated tallow benzylmonium chloride Okay
Quat. Smooths hair.
See also:Quat
Denatured alcohol Avoid
Drying alcohol.
See also:Alcohol
Detergent Okay
Detergents are generally made from a fatty alcohol (that can be made from petroleum or natural oils such as coconut oil), and combined with an acid. This puts them in a far friendlier pH for hair, that likes things to be slightly acidic. They are much gentler on the hair than soaps. Begoun pg 73,
Source(s): Begoun http://thebeautybrains.com/2008/11/17/what-is-the-difference-between-soap-surfactants/
Dextrin(aka Dextrine; British Gum; Starch Gum; ) Caution
Dextrin is a gum made from starch. It's used to dilute dry extracts or mixtures in a product, or it's used to thicken creams or liquids. It may cause allergic reactions [Winter pg 195; Gottschalk pg 754-755].
Source(s): WinterGottschalk
Diammonium dithioglycolate Avoid
A thioglycolic acid compound. Can cause hair breakage. Often seen in perms.
See also:Thioglycolates
Diazolidinyl urea Caution
Preservative that has had some controversy for being a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Often used as a pesticide in the cotton industry, and to kill microbes for cosmetics. The CIR Expert Panel found it to be safe for use in cosmetics so long as its concentration is below 0.5 percent of the product. May cause skin irritation (as all preservatives can to some degree). [Winter pg 197].
Diazolidinyl urea is a fine white powder that's soluble in water. Works best against molds and yeasts, and it's known to be stable over many pHs. It needs to be used with other preservatives, such as parabens, to insure that all types of fungi are killed [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 179].
See also:PreservativeFormaldehyde-releasing preservative Source(s): WinterHunting
Dicetyldimonium chloride(aka Quaternium-31; Dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) Okay
Smooths hair [Begoun pg 75, Winter pg 19]. Used for conditioning, and also to keep the product from separating. Known for being an effective and mild hair conditioner. By itself, Dicetyldimonium chloride is translucent, and kind of watery. But it does a fine job of conditioning on it's own. Often, other conditioning ingredients (such as Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol or Cetearyl alcohol) are added to make it thicker and more opaque [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 179-180].
See also:Quaternary Ammonium Compound Source(s): BegounWinterHunting
Diethanolamine(aka DEA) Caution
Cleanser, lather creater, pH adjuster. In low doses, DEA seems to be safe enough for use. This is an amine, and when combined with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, may create nitrosamines. This has not been directly linked to any health issue. Pg 1282. See diethanolamine for more information.
See also:Formaldehyde-releasing preservative Nitrosamines Amines Preservative Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Dimethicone (aka Linear Polydimethylsiloxanes; Linear PDMS; Dimethyl silicone) Good
This is the name for a group of silicones. The heaviest of all silicones used for hair care, they provide the most smoothing effect, but is hardest to wash out. Also might be considered too heavy for less curly hair [Beauty Brains pg 38 and provided link]. Conditions by preventing water loss. Also used to keep a product from foaming. Used in a huge amount of products, from hair conditioners to makeup [Gottschalck pg 562]. Gives a velvety feel. This does not evaporate [Schueller pgs 174-178]. Dimethicones are considered nonirritating to the skin and eyes. The different grades of Dimethicones come in different thicknesses, ranging from ones that will quickly evaporate (Hexamethyldisiloxane), to the consistency of honey, to those thicker than silly putty [Schueller pgs 174-178, Hunting (Conditioning) pgs181-182]. Though they are thick, they still allow the surface they are on to "breathe", meaning that water evaporation still occurs through it, so they aren't very moisturizing [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 181-182]. Makes product slippery so comb (or Denman) glides more easily through your curls. —T
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Dimethicone bisamino hydroxypropyl copolyol Okay
Silicone that gives product a glassy or “silky” texture.
See also:Silicone Source(s): http://answers.google.com
Dimethicone copolyol Caution
The general term for a group of substances that are dimethicone (silicone) derivatives. Some forms may be water soluble, but they may be more of a suspension in water. Used for a variety of purposes, such as film formers (such as used in gels), conditioning, stabilizers, and adding slipperiness. They are considered nonirritating to skin and eyes. They are known to be "plasticizing" when it's used in hair sprays. [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 182]. —Some versions of this may be sticky, or they may be slippery. Stlippery? So this would be great to see in your gel or mousse or hairspray, because you want those to have some hold. But it may build up if its present in shampoos or conditioners.—T See also:Silicone Dimethicone Source(s): Huntinghttp://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=1437http://answers.google.com
Dimethicone Crosspolymer Caution
Used to keep a product from separating, and to thicken it. This also functions as a hair fixative. Gottschalck pg 564. I'm putting this as a Caution because it's listed as a hair fixative. This makes me think it will build up and make your hair sticky if it's in your shampoo or conditioner. It's fine in a gel, mousse or hairspray, because these are supposed to make your hair stick together.—T See also:SiliconeEmulsion stabilizer Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride Okay
Antistatic ingredient. Also used for conditioning. Gottschalck pg 564.
Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethicone PEG-7 Avocadoate Okay
Used for hair conditioning and as an emollient. Made from PEG-7 dimethicone and the fatty acids from avocado oil. Gottschalck pg 565.
See also:Siloxane Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethicone PEG-7 Isostearate Okay
Used for hair conditioning. Emollient. Gottschalck pg 566.
See also:EmollientSiloxane Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethicone PEG-7 Olivate Okay
Hair conditioner. Emollient. Made from PEG-7 Dimethicone and fatty acids from olive oil. Gottschalck pg 566.
See also:SiloxaneEmollient Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethicone PEG-8 Borageate Okay
Used for hair conditioning. Emollient. Made from PEG-8 Dimethicone and the fatty acids from borage seed oil. Gottaschalck pg 565.
See also:Emollient Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate Okay
Emollient.
Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylate Caution
Used to hold hair in place. Also used to keep the ingredients in the product mixed together. Gottschalck pg 567. I'm putting this as a caution because this is a sticky ingredient that can build up in your hair. It's fine if it's in a gel, mousse or hairspray—those are supposed to keep your hair stuck together. I'd avoid it in in a shampoo or conditioner. —T Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethiconol(aka Dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane) Okay
Silicone. Provides slip. Emollient. Also used to keep a product from foaming. Used in lots of products, from hair conditioners to makeup. Gottschalck pg 568.
See also:Silicone Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethiconol Arginine Okay
Hair conditioning ingredient. Made from Dimethiconol and Arginine. Gottschalck pg 569.
See also:ArginineSiloxane Source(s): Gottschalck
Dimethiconol Cysteine Okay
Hair conditioning ingredient. Made from Dimethiconol and Cystine. Gottschalck pg 569.
See also:DimethiconolCysteine Source(s): Gottschalck
Disodium EDTA Okay
Chelating ingredient that attracts the minerals away from the hair shaft and helps them rinse away. Good to use after swimming [Begoun]. Aso used as a preservative. Considered harmless in cosmetics at low levels. Sold as a water soluble white powder that is slightly acidic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 185].
See also:Chelating agentEDTA Source(s): BegounHunting
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate(aka Disodium monolaureth sulfosuccinate) Good
Mild foam booster, cleanser that is also used to detoxify the product. This is more mild than Sodium laureth sulfate (which is more mild than Sodium lauryl sulfate). Considered to be non-irritating to eyes and skin. This is an odorless, clear liquid that's water-soluble. [Hunting (Shampoo) pgs 207, 208].
Source(s): Hunting
Disodium monococamido sulfosuccinate Okay
Gentle cleanser that may be too mild to wash away any styling products. Pg 74
Source(s): Begoun
Disodium monoleamide MEA sulfosuccinate Okay
Gentle cleanser that may be too mild to wash away any styling products. Pg 74
Source(s): Begoun
Divinyldimethicone/ dimethicone crosspolymer Caution
Used as a film former and a conditioning ingredient [Winter pg 216]. Film formers are often sticky, and this one has vinyl in it, an ingredient known to be sticky. The dimethicone means it's slippery, too, so this is probably a "stlippery" ingredient. I avoid anything that is sticky, because it can build up.—T See also:Film former Source(s): Winter
DMDM hydantoin Okay
Preservative.
See also:Preservative
Dodecene(aka 1-Dodecene) Caution
This seems to be used to control the thickness of a product. This is a clear and odorless liquid. Though it's found in butter, it's known to be a skin irritant.
Source(s): http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1154001.html
Eau(aka Water; Aqua) Okay
See Water.
See also:Water
Ecklonia Radiata Extract(aka Kelp) Okay
Ecklonia Radiata is a species of kelp, a seaweed.
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years (even though I'm sure it's in there in a very teeny amount). It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
* * Tried and true ingredient * * *
EDTA(aka Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic Acid) Caution
Chelating ingredient that attracts the minerals away from the hair shaft and helps them rinse away. Good to use after swimming [Begoun].
Winter [7th ed., pg 228] says EDTA may be irritating to the skin or cause rashes. And it has been shown to be harmful when ingested.
Aso used as a preservative and as a pH adjuster. Considered harmless in cosmetics at low levels, and is also used in foods. In clear products, adding EDTA prevents it from going cloudy, and also keeps all ingredients mixed together (instead of some of them settling to the bottom of the product). A white powder that is not water soluble, but will dissolve in an alkaline solution. EDTA also has some astringent effect, so it shrinks the hair cuticle, therefore making the hair temporarily appear shinier. It also helps to remove dulling residues from soap buildup on the hair [Hunting (Conditioning) pg. 189].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another conditioner I've been using regularly for about five years (even though I'm sure it's in there in a very teeny amount). It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Elaeis guineensis oil(aka Palm oil; Elaeis melanococca oil; Astrocaryum murumuru) Good
Please see Palm oil.
See also:Palm oil
Elaeis melanococca oil(aka Palm oil; Elaeis guineensis oil; Astrocaryum murumuru) Good
Please see Palm oil.
See also:Palm oil
Elastin(aka Hydrolyzed Elastin) Okay
Elastin is a protein that’s found in animal tissue that’s needed to be able to stretch. Since Elastin isn’t water soluble, it can’t do anything for the hair, so it’s more likely that Hydrolyzed Elastin is what’s used in products [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs189-190].
See also:ElastinProtein Source(s): Hunting
Emollient Good
Waxlike, lubricating, thickening ingredients that can prevent water loss and have a softening and smoothing effect on skin and hair.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Emulsifying wax Okay
Emulsifying waxes aren't really waxes, but are "wax-like" products used to keep mixtures from separating into their oil and water ingredients. Emulsifying waxes are also used to help thicken products. They are usually made from a mixture of Cetyl and Stearyl alcohol, often with one additional ingredient.
To add Emulsifying wax into a product, it's often melted, and then water at the same temperature is added. This is mixed together until it cools. Then it's often added to the product to thicken it, and make it more stable [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 192].
See also:Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Source(s): Hunting
Emulsifying wax CT Okay
Thickener, stabilizing, conditioner, and detangler. Quat consisting of cetearyl alcohol and behentrimonium methoslulfate.
See also:Quat Source(s): http://www.MakingCosmetics.com
Emulsifying wax NF Okay
A waxy solid made from a blend of approximately 80% Cetearyl alcohol and 20% Polysorbate 60. Used as an emulsifier (keeps the ingredients in a product from separating) and thickener. It isn't really a wax, but is "wax-like". The difference is that it turns creamy in hot water [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs192-193].
See also:Cetearyl alcoholPolysorbate 60 Source(s): Hunting
Emulsion stabilizer(aka Emulsifier) Okay
An ingredient that's added to a product to keep the product from separating into its oil and water components (emulsion).
Enzyme Okay
A protein found in plant or animal cells that help start or speed up very specific chemical reactions.
Equisetum arvense extract(aka Horsetail extract) Okay
See Horsetail
See also:Horsetail
Essential oils Caution
Oils often made from leaves or flowers. Many of them serve as emollients or anti-inflammatories. Others serve as fragrances, and some (especially the fragrant ones) may cause skin irritation and/or sensitivity. Best not to put these on a baby's skin. Pg 73
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Ester Okay
A substance made from a reaction between an acid with an alcohol by eliminating water. Often these are fragrant liquids used for fruit perfumes and flavors. Winter pg 228.
Source(s): Winter
Ethanolamine(aka Acetamide MEA) Okay
See Acetamide MEA.
See also:Acetamide MEA
Ether Caution
Okay, I had to pull out the old college Chemistry text book on this one to refresh my memory. An ether is made when two alcohol molecules are combined and water is eliminated in the process [Chemistry: The Molecular Science by Olmsted & Williams 1997, pg 523].
Used to dissolve one product in another. It's insoluble in water as well as in fat. May cause skin irritation. Often made from the distillation of alcohol using sulfuric acid, and it has a distintive smell [Winter (7th ed) pg 223].
Source(s): WinterOlmsted
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid(aka EDTA) Okay
Chelating ingredient and stabilizer.
See also:Chelating agent
Ethylene glycol(aka Polyethylene Glycol; PEG) Okay
A thick liquid that can absorb twice its weight in water. Used in cosmetics as a humectant. It can be highly toxic if ingested, but the CIR panel found it safe for use topically, such as in cosmetics [Winter 7th ed., pg 228].
See also:GlycerinPolyethylene glycolCIR Expert Panel Source(s): Winter
Ethylene Oxide(aka Polyethylene Oxide) Avoid
Banned or found unsafe for cosmetic use in Canada and Europe [Winter pg 236]. According to The Cosmetic Safety Database, this is also considered a skin irritant with lots and lots of studies showing it's dangers with exposure.
Source(s): Winter http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=726229
Ethylhexylgylcerin Okay
A synthetic ingredient mostly used as a skin conditioner, and even as a deodorant [Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 961].
See also:Glycerin Source(s): Gottschalck
Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate Okay
This is used as an emollient. Made from Stearic acid [Winter pg 236].
See also:Stearic acid Source(s): Winter
Ethylhexyl isopalmitate Okay
An emollient made from Palmitic acid. It's often used in skin products and makeup. Can also be used for fragrance [Winter pg 236].
See also:Palmitic acid Source(s): Winter
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Okay
Used to protect skin or product from damage or deterioration from UV rays.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org
Ethylhexyl palmitate Okay
Emollient made from Palmitic acid often found in cosmetics [Winter pg 236].
See also:Palmitic acid Source(s): Winter
Eugenol Caution
Colorless to yellow liquid. Has a strong scent of of clove or cinnamon leaf. Thickener, stabilizing, conditioner, detangling. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.doc
Euterpe Oleracea(aka Acai; Acai Pulp Oil) Okay
A berry from palms from Brazil that is considered by some to be the most nutritious food from the Amazon, containing proteins, amino acids, and anti-oxidants. It is also promoted as an anti-aging product, so it appears in many skin care and hair care products [Winter (7th ed.,) pg 42].
Source(s): Winter
Extracts Caution
This term is often used to mean solutions made from plants that have been processed so it's easy to use in personal care products. Since many plants aren't soluble in water, they must be processed with solvents. The solvents may be water, alcohols (like denatured ethanol or isopropanol), glycols, oils, or mineral oils. These are not generally listed with the extract on the product label, which is of concern to the FDA. Often, when many plant extracts are put into a product, they are joined by "and" as they are listed on a product label, instead of each one being listed separately (though this is not approved of by the CTFA). This is done to make the extracts seem like one ingredient, and is therefore put higher up in a product's ingredient list than if it had been listed on it's own (implying there is more extract in the product).
After the plants or plant parts are collected, they are often air-dried, ground up, and extracted with a solvent. The extract is filtered, concentrated, and sometimes more solvent is added. Afterward, a preservative is added, often it's a paraben.
Natural extracts in personal products are usually there for marketing appeal. There is little chance they can actually do anything in the product, because they are so diluted by the time they are in the product. If any of the extracts actually were active in the product, the product would then have to be classified as a drug.
Often extracts are put in the product for "conditioning", or another vauge cosmetic claim. Then it is up to the person using (or purchasing) this product to interpret what that claim means to them [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 200-202].
Source(s): Hunting
Ext Violet 2(aka Ext. D&C Violet No. 2; CI 60730; D & C Violet No. 2) Caution
A blue-violet synthetic coloring ingredient that's soluble in water. Also known as a coal-tar color. FDA determined it is safe to use in cosmetics and personal care products as long as it's for external use only [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 220-221]. Not intended for lip products or eye products. It's been determined to be safe as long as it's used in limited amounts, and just topically, though it may cause some skin irritation.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Huntinghttp://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=1039http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=1039
Farsenol Okay
Fragrance ingredient used to emphasize a sweet scent. Also used as a food flavoring. Occurs naturally in star anise, citronella, rose and balsam. Winter pg 243. Begoun pg 1280.
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Fatty acids Okay
These are usually found in plant or animal fats. These are used in products as emollients and often to give the product thickness, (or, when mixed with glycerin, they become fats). Examples of some Fatty acids are Caprylic, lauric, myristic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic [Begoun pg 1280, Winter pg 243].
Fatty acids are hugely common in nature. All plant and animal fats and oils are considered fatty acids, as well as synthetic. Fatty acids are used to condition, and as an emulsifier (when made into a soap by being neutralized with a strong base) [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 202].
Source(s): Begoun(Cosmetics)WinterHunting
Fatty alcohol Okay
These are made from fatty acids (ingredients found in plant and animal fats). These are often used to thicken products, and as emollients. Begoun pg 1280. Cetyl, Stearyl, Lauryl, Myristyl are examples of these. Cetyl and Stearyl alcohols moisturize, giving a velvety feel. Lauryl and myristyl are used in cleansers. Winter pg 243.
See also:Fatty acid Source(s): Begoun(Cosmetics)Winter
Fennel Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Fig extract(aka Ficus carica) Caution
The extract is taken from the fruit and leaves of the fig plant, used for moisturizing. It's found by the European Union (EU) to be unsafe for use as a fragrance [CosmeticsDatabase.com].
A fruit that contains compounds that may cause extreme sun sensitivity and skin irritation. The fruit also contains latex which is sometimes used to treat skin tumors or warts externally [Begoun (Cosmetics) 7th ed., pg 1101].
Source(s): WinterBegounhttp://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=702475
Film-former Caution
Leaves a film over the hair. Can give hair a smooth feel, but may also build up, and cause hair to become sticky over time. These are often found in gels. Examples are acrylates, acrylamides, PVP or copolymers. Winter Pg 247. Begoun pg 1281.
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Fir needle Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Formaldeyde-releasing preservative Caution
This is a common type of preservative used in cosmetics and hair care products. Studies seem to show that these don't cause more skin irritation than other preservatives (they can all irritate skin). The concern is that when a formaldehyde-releasing preservative is in the same product that has an amine, cancer causing chemicals called nitrosamines may be formed. However, it hasn't been directly linked to health problems. Pg 1282.
See also:Preservative Nitrosamines Source(s): Begoun
Fuller’s earth(aka Clay) Avoid
Drying to the hair. Pg 350
Source(s): Begoun
Fusanus spicatus (aka Fusanus spicatus wood oil; Australian sandalwood; West Australian sandalwood) Caution
Oil made from the wood of an Australian tree Fusanus spicatus tree. The roots and/ or wood are dried and ground, then steam distilled. Used for fragrance, often in cleaning products [Winter pgs252, 449]. Has a soft, woody-sweet, spicy-resin scent. It's used as a substitute for East Indian Sandalwood. —Sandalwood is known to cause rashes on very sensitive skin. This sounds pretty similar, so to be safe, I would be very cautious about putting this on a baby or child's skin. —T Source(s): Winterhttp://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=719141&refurl=/product.php?prod_id=93351&¬hanks=1http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa4091/is_200305/ai_n9257715/
Gelatin Okay
Fine in hair, and in high concentrations can be conditioning. However, it doesn’t repair hair (hair is dead. Nothing can repair it). Pg 643.
Source(s): Begoun
Geraniol Caution
Oily, colorless liquid with a sweet floral rose scent. A main component in the oils of: rose, geranium, citronella, lavender, and jasmine. May cause skin irritation. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Winter pg 254.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.docWinter
Geranium oil(aka Pelargonium oil; Geranium maculatum oil) Caution
Fragrance oil from the leaves of the rose geranium (Pelargonium). May cause allergic reactions in those sensitive to geraniums [Winter pg 255]. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun pg 94].
See also:Irritant Source(s): WinterBegoun
Ginger(aka Zingiber officinale; Gan Jiang) Okay
Rhizome (roots) of the plant are often used in cooking, and has been believed to have medicinal purposes, such as reducing inflammation, as well as possibly stimulating blood circulation in the scalp and the oil-secreting glands. Not good for those who have skin problems. As with anything, too much can be irritating [Winter (7th ed.,) pgs 452, 253].
Source(s): Winter
Ginseng(aka Panax ginseng; Panax quinquefolium; Eleutherococcus senticosus) Good
Ginseng is often used in hair products as a conditioner. It's known to have amino acids, essential oils, vitamins, and minerals. It's often used to relieve the pain from irritated or inflamed mucus membranes [Winter (7th Ed.) pgs 253, 188].
See also:Amino acids Source(s): Winter
Glucose Caution
Glucose occurs naturally in blood, but is also found in fruit and corn. It's sweeter than table sugar, and is used as an energy source for plants and animals. It's often used to sweeten food. According to Winter [pg 257], those who work frequently with Glucose such as candy-makers experience their fingernails getting loose, and sometimes even falling off (!). Because of this, I'm putting Glucose as a caution. —T
Glucose Glutamate Okay
Glucose Glutamate is used as a humectant, a conditioner for both skin and hair, and also to cut down on static electicity. It's found naturally in blood, as well as in corn and grapes. It's much sweeter than table sugar [Winter pg 257]. Known to leave a film on hair that makes it smoother, shinier, and easier to comb. Made from a reaction between Glucose and Glutamic Acid. This is a sticky, white-ish paste that's water soluble, and known to be pretty mild for skin [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 214-215].
See also:Glutamic acidGlucose Source(s): WinterHuntinghttp://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=702599
Glutamic acid(aka Glutamine) Good
An amino acid found in hair that's used as a humectant [Begoun (Hair) pg 84]. Sold as a crystalline white powder, this is a non-essential amino acid often made from vegetable protein. It's often used to enhance food flavors, and as an antioxident and humectant in cosmetics [Winter pg 258]. Made from Glutamine, Glutamic acid is an anionic amino acid known for being an effective humectant [Schueller pgs 153,156].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another conditioner I've been using regularly for about five years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Gluten(aka Triticum vulgare; Wheat gluten) Okay
Gluten is a protein mixture that's found in wheat flour [Winter 7th ed., pg 256].
See also:Protein Source(s): Winter
Glycerin(aka Glycerine, Glycerol) Good
Glycerin is used as a humectant, and also to add slip in a conditioner to make the product easier for combing. It's also put in products to keep the products from drying up in the container.
It's known to be non toxic, and doesn't cause skin irritation (Winter says it may be irritating to the mucas membranes in concentrated solutions, but when used normally, it's non-irritating and non-allergenic.). (Fun fact: It's actually a byproduct of regular human metabolism).
Glycerin is a clear, thick liquid which is completely water soluble. It occurs in nature in animal fats, and is often used to make glycerin soap (when a highly alkaline substance is added to it). It can also be made synthetically [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 238-239].
Glycerin is a by-product of soap making. It's a sweet-tasting, oily liquid (but I don't recommend drinking it, or course), made from adding something basic to a fat or an oil. It's a humectant because it absorbs water from the air, and it can help products spread better[Winter (7th ed) pg 256].
—This is great for combing, but I’ve found that once it dries, it’s gone, so it shouldn’t be too close to the top of the ingredient list (after water). You want it for slip, but you need other ingredients to help keep your hair calm and together after this dries—T Source(s): HuntingWinter
Glyceryl esther Okay
“Large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.”
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Glyceryl isopalmitate Okay
Emollient and thickener.
Glyceryl isostearate Okay
Emollient and thicker.
Glyceryl monothioglycolate Avoid
Sometimes known as an “acid perm”, this is often used to make straight hair curly. Anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair. They are less damaging than lye products. This should never be used on hair that has been relaxed with lye chemicals, otherwise most bonds in the hair would be destroyed, and a severe loss of hair could occur. Pg 156
See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun
Glyceryl myristate Okay
Emollient and thickening ingredient.
Glyceryl oleate(aka Glyceryl monooleate; GMO) Okay
Used to help keep products from separating into their oil and water components. Also used for its good conditioning properties. Heavier than Glyceryl stearate, it produces a smooth feel on hair and on skin. Known for being very mild. Made from Glycerol and Oleic acid. Amber in color that can either be liquid or somewhat solid. Not water soluble. Though it's very conditioning, it has a strong "oleic acid" smell. This, combined with its amber color makes it less desirable to use in products [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 217].
See also:GlycerolOleic acidGlyceryl stearate Source(s): Hunting
Glyceryl palmitate Okay
Emollient and thickening ingredient.
Glyceryl stearate Good
Used for its conditioning properties, and is often used with other emulsifiers to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components. It's a light weight conditioning ingredient that gives a dry, smooth feel when rubbed in. Known as being a safe food additive. It's lighter than Glyceryl oleate. Glyceryl stearate is made from Glycerol and Stearic acid.Insoluble in water [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 218-219].
Glyceryl undecylenate Okay
Synthetic ingredient used for skin conditioning as an emollient and as an emulsifier [Gottschalck pg 1085] (keeps product from separating into its water and oil components).
Source(s): Gottschalck
Glycine Okay
"Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
"
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Glycine soja (soybean) seed extract Okay
Extract made from the seeds of the soybean plant, which is a bushy plant in the pea family. The oil from the soybean is pale yellowish, used to make margarine, soaps, and shampoos [Winter 7th edition, pg 490 and Gottschalck pg 1089].
Source(s): WinterGottschalck
Glycine soja flour(aka Glycine soya flour; Soybean flour; Soy flour) Avoid
Soybeans that have been ground to a fine flour used as a thickener and as an abrasive (Gottschalck pg 1086-1087).
Glycine soja milk(aka Glycine soya milk) Okay
Made from soybeans. I looked in all my books, including The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, and this is not in there. However, they have many pages of Glycine soja in different forms, such as Glycine soja extract (extract from the soybean plant), Glycine soja fiber (the fiber from the soybean) and Glycine soja oil (the oil from soybeans). So I'm going to say, until I can find otherwise, but based on the pattern I'm seeing in Gottshalck, that his is the milk made from soybeans, or soymilk --T See also:Soy Source(s): Gottschalck
Glycine soya milk(aka Glycine soja milk) Okay
Made from soybeans. I looked in all my books, including The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, and this is not in there. However, they have many pages of Glycine soja in different forms, such as Glycine soja extract (extract from the soybean plant), Glycine soja fiber (the fiber from the soybean) and Glycine soja oil (the oil from soybeans). So I'm going to say, until I can find otherwise, but based on the pattern I'm seeing in Gottshalck, that his is the milk made from soybeans, or soymilk --T See also:Soy Source(s): Gottschalck
Glycol distearate(aka Ethylene glycol distearate) Okay
Made from Glycerin and Steric acid that's used to make products mix better together, or less transparent. It was found to be safe in the 1980s, but it may be examined again (by the CIR panel) to make a final decision [Winter 7th ed., pg 258].
Glycol distearate is a white-ish waxy solid that's not soluble in water. It's used to make products pearly-looking. Inferior grades of this product may contain significant levels of Ethylene glycol [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 240].
See also:GlycerinStearic acidEthylene glycol Source(s): WinterHunting
Glycolic acid Caution
Harmless if pH of the product is high (more neutral or alkaline). In a product with a lower pH, may “exfoliate” hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Glycol stearate(aka Ethylene glycol monostearate) Good
Used to make a product pearly-looking [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 240-241]. Thickener and emollient [BeautyBrains].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Glycosphingolipids Okay
Humectant.
See also:Humectant
Golden seal extract(aka Hydrastis canadensis; Yellow Root; Puccoon Root) Okay
This root has been used by Native Americans, early pioneers, as well as modern herbalists for numerous medicinal purposes, especially internal issues. However, the FDA has found this extract not to be as safe as claimed for digestive problems [Winter pg 264-265]. —Though Golden seal has a reputation for being medicinal, this doesn't mean it can do anything at all for your hair (since hair isn't living, there is nothing that can be put on it to "heal" it)—T.
See also:Extracts Source(s): Winter
Grapefruit(aka Citris Grandis) Caution
Often used in cleansing products and skin care products [Winter (7th ed pg 157]. Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun (Hair) Pgs . Pg 73, 94].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Winter
Grapefruit juice Avoid
Drying to hair and irritating to scalp. Pg 415.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Green 3(aka CI 42053; Fast Green) Okay
Green coloring found in bath products, shampoos, shaving products, conditioners, and even in colognes [Winter (7th ed.) pg 263].
Source(s): Winter
Green Tea(aka Camellia oleifera; Camellia sinensis; Camellia japonica) Good
Green tea comes from the leaves of an evergreen bush or small tree from Asia. In addition to the beverage, green tea is used as a scent in perfumes. As a beverage, it has been found to have anti-oxidant properties [Winter 7th ed., pg 130]. Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though [Begoun pg 202].
Source(s): BegounWinter
Guanidine carbonate Avoid
This is mixed with calcium hydroxide to form guanidine hydroxide, a common ingredient in relaxers. Pg 155
See also:Guanidine hydroxide Source(s): Begoun
Guanidine hydroxide Avoid
This is created in relaxers by mixing calcium hydroxide with guanidine carbonate, which forms guanidine hydroxide. Known as “alkaline perms”. Often found in “no-lye” relaxers and texturizers. It is still as harshly alkaline as lye. Pg 166. — Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. Can cause severe burns on skin. Of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers.—T Source(s): Begoun
Guar gum Okay
Thickening ingredient made from plants.
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride Caution
Conditioning ingredient. Good in products that will be rinsed off. Water soluble quaternary ammonium compound, made from guar gum. — This is an ingredient that was in a conditioner that flaked up when I used enough product to keep my curls clumped. If you are going to rinse the product out of your hair, this ingredient is fine. If you are planning on leaving this on your hair, this may gum up. —T See also:Quaternary Ammonium Compound Source(s): Begoun
Guar powder(aka Guar gum powder) Okay
Ground gum powder from the seeds of a guar bean. Used as a thickener, and keeps the products ingredients mixed together.
Source(s): http://www.altrafine.com/guar_gum_powder.html
Hamamelis virginiana(aka Witch hazel extract) Caution
Made from the leaves or twigs often collected in autumn from the Hamamelis virginiana plant, often growing as a small tree or large shrub. This is a popular ingredient found in many products.
May cause irritation or dryness because it contains a high percentage of ethanol alcohol (70-80%). However, the product that's usually bought in stores is actually Witch hazel water, which has 15% ethanol. Okay if it is in products you will rinse out. [Winter (7th ed., pg 549-550].
See also:Ethanol Source(s): Winter
Hard water Caution
Hard water is water that has an excess of calcium and magnesium ions in it. These are positively charged. Some types of cleansers (cleansers that work with a negative charge —known as Anionic surfactants) get partially deactivated in hard water. They get deactivated because there is an excess of positive charges in hard water from these calcium and magnesium ions, so they neutralize the negative charge needed for the cleanser to grab onto the water molecules to help wash the oily dirt away. To prevent this, other ingredients are often added to the product to "absorb" the Calcium and Magnesium (Chelating agents). This also explains why it feels like more shampoo is needed if you have hard water.
See also:Anionic surfactants SurfactantsChelating agent Source(s): http://www.scienceinthebox.com/en_UK/glossary/surfactants_en.html
Hedychium coronarium(aka White Ginger) Okay
Extract from the roots (rhizome) of the Hawaiian white ginger plant. Though ginger has often been thought to have medicinal powers [Winter (7th ed.) pgs 253,548] it has not been shown to do anything for the hair.
See also:Ginger Source(s): Winter
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil(aka Sunflower Seed Oil) Good
See Sunflower Seed Oil.
See also:Sunflower Seed Oil
Heliogenol Okay
Made from sunflowers. Marketed as being able to keep color from fading, but it is not able to do this.
Source(s): Begoun
Hemp seed oil Okay
Emollient oil.
Henna(aka Henna Extract; Mehndi; Mendee; Lawsonia inermis; Cassia obovata) Avoid
Can build up over time and cause hair to become brittle or sticky [Begoun (Hair) pg 399]. Though it's known to be safe, and colorless versions are sold as being conditioning, to increase body, and emphasize highlights, it can cause brittleness in the hair with repeated use. This is because it coats the hair with a thin film of protein-like material. It's appeal is "folkloric", and is included in products for marketing appeal [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 228-230]. —I haven't been able to find out if henna extract builds up on the hair and makes it brittle in the way henna does. Because I'm paranoid, I want to err on the side of caution, so I try to avoid anything with henna in it.—T Source(s): Begoun Hunting
Hexamethyldisilosane(aka Dimethicone; Linear polydimethylsiloxane) Okay
This is the lightest of any of the silicones, evaporating as quickly as rubbing alcohol [Schueller, pg176]. Considered nontoxic and nonirritating to skin and eyes [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 181].
See also:Dimethicone Source(s): SchuellerHunting
Hexyl cinnamal Caution
Fragrance ingredient. Has a floral-jasmine-waxy scent. Clear yellow liquid. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.iff.com
Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde Okay
Gives product a floral-jasmine-waxy scent.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.iff.com
Hexylene glycol Okay
Excellent humectant. Also adds a slip to the product.
Hinokitol(aka Hinoki oil) Caution
Often marketed as a product to stop hair loss, but no evidence to support this. May be a scalp irritant. Pg 379.
Source(s): Begoun
Histidine Okay
"Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
"
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Honey(aka Miel) Okay
Honey is used for flavoring, and as an emollient in cosmetics. Honey is made from the nectar that bees collect from flowers [Winter pg 284] (and carry back to their hives in their stomach), where it's processed by other bees and stored in honeycombs to thicken [eBee Honey.com].
Honey is a water-soluble humectant that's made up of simple sugars, and nearly 20% water. It may also contain pollen, gums, tiny amounts of minerals, and even vitamins. It's flavor and composition varies depending on the flowers the bees visit.
Though honey is a humectant, there is no evidence that it works any better than any other sugars or humectants. It's main appeal in a product is most likely folkloric because it's natural and familiar (and tastes good) [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 231].
—You might to avoid a product with this high on the list of ingredients because honey is very sticky, and might make it really hard to get a comb through your hair if there's a lot of it in a conditioner—T See also:Humectant Source(s): WinterHunting
Honeysuckle Extract(aka Lonicera Caprifolium Extract) Okay
Honeysuckles usually have tubular flowers and many varieties are fragrant. Often used in perfumes, as well as helping with rashes such as poison oak. The flowers are harmless, but the fruits are considered toxic when eaten [Winter 7th ed., pg 282].
Source(s): Winter
Horseradish Caution
Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. [Begoun] (Hair) Pg 73.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Horsetail(aka Equisetum arvense) Caution
Extract made from the horsetail plant. The herb is known to help get rid of excess oil in hair and skin [Winter 7th edition, pg 284]. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. [Begoun Pg 94].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Winterhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equisetum
Huile Mineralé(aka Paraffinum liquidum; Mineral oil; Liquid Petrolatum; Paraffin oil; White oil) Okay
See Mineral oil.
See also:Mineral oil
Humectant Okay
An ingredient that attracts water to it. Used as a moisturizer.
Hyaluronic acid Okay
Humectant ingredient.
Hydrastis canadensis extract(aka Golden seal) Okay
See Golden seal
See also:Golden seal
Hydrogenated Okay
See Hydrogenation
See also:Hydrogenation
Hydrogenated castor oil Okay
Hydrogenated castor oil is often used as a wax. This is castor oil that's been thickened in the same way vegetable oil is hydrogenated to become margarine [Winter pgs 138, 289, 291-292].
See also:HydrogenationCastor oil Source(s): Winter
Hydrogenated lanolin Okay
Thickener with a soft, waxy feel.
Hydrogenation Okay
Hydrogenation is the process commonly used to turn an oil that's liquid at room temperature into a solid or semi-solid at room temperature. This is done by adding extra hydrogen gas into the oil at a high pressure. This is how margarine or vegetable shortening is made from vegetable oil [Winter pg 291-292].
See also:PEGHydrogenation Source(s): Winter
Hydrolysed wheat protein pg-propyl silanetriol(aka Hydrolyzed wheat protein pg-propyl silanetriol) Okay
Hair and skin conditioner made from hydrolyzed wheat protein and silicone. Often used in makeup, shampoos, hair conditioners, and even mascaras [Gottschalck (12th ed) pg 1241].
See also:Hydrolyzed wheat proteinSilicone Source(s): Gottschalck
Hydrolyzed Okay
A substance is often hydrolyzed so that it can be more water soluble. A hydrolyzed substance means that it has gone through a process so that it's liquefied, or turned partly to water. This reaction uses acids, bases, or enzymes. It often results in making a simpler compound from a more complex one (hydrolysis takes place when we digest food) [Winter pg 292]; [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 234].
Source(s): WinterHuntinghttp://www.chemistryexplained.com/Hy-Kr/Hydrolysis.html
Hydrolyzed Brazil nut protein Okay
Protein from the oil of the Brazil nut that's been processed so it's been partially broken down to make it more water soluble [Winter 7th ed.,pgs 116, 290].
See also:HydrolyzedProteinBrazil nut oil Source(s): Winter
Hydrolyzed Elastin(aka Elastin) Okay
Known for being a great moisturizing and conditioning ingredient. It’s a humectant, and it also has marketing appeal because it’s a natural ingredient. It help improves the feel of hair that’s been damaged. It’s known for improving the glossiness, body, and makes hair easier to comb. It may also reduce the irritation caused by other ingredients in the product.
Elastin is a protein that’s found in animal connective tissue that’s needed to be elastic. In order for it to work in hair, it has to be water-soluble. To make it water soluble, it’s broken down (hydrolyzed) by a mild base or heat. It’s available as a yellow or dark yellow, clear liquid or powder [Hunting (Conditioning) pages 236-237].
See also:ProteinElastinHydrolyzed Source(s): Hunting
Hydrolyzed Silk (aka Hydrolyzed Silk Protein) Okay
See Hydrolyzed Silk Protein.
See also:Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein(aka Hydrolyzed Silk) Okay
This is a form of protein made from broken down silk proteins.These aren’t known to work as well as keratin derived proteins. These do not coat the hair very well [Hunting (Conditioning) Pages 349-352].
See also:Protein Source(s): Hunting
Hydrolyzed soy protein Okay
Often used in hair and skin conditioners. Made from liquefied soy protein. Winter pg 293.
See also:Hydrolyzed Source(s): Winter
Hydrolyzed sweet almond protein Okay
Protein extracted from almonds that has been liquified.
See also:ProteinHydrolyzed
Hydrolyzed vegetable protein Okay
Liquified vegetable protein. Pg 293.
See also:Hydrolyzed Source(s): Winter
Hydrolyzed wheat protein pg-propyl silanetriol(aka Hydrolysed wheat protein pg-propyl silanetriol; Hydrolyzed wheat protein hydroxypropyl polysiloxane) Okay
Hair and skin conditioner made from hydrolyzed wheat protein and silicone. Often used in makeup, shampoos, hair conditioners, and even mascaras [Gottschalck (12th ed) pg 1241].
See also:SiliconeHydrolyzed wheat protein Source(s): Gottschalck
Hydroxyethylcellulose Okay
Thickener made from plants, often used as an emulsifier. This is known to be very mild, even in high concentrations [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 239-240].
Source(s): Hunting http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde(aka Lyral) Caution
Fragrance ingredient with floral/lily/lilac scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.iff.com
Hydroxypropyl guar(aka Guar gum hydroxypropyl ether) Okay
Used as a thickener, as well as keeping a product from separating into its oil and water components. Sold as a white powder that dissolves easily in water. When it dissolves in water, it makes a thick liquid [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 240].
Source(s): Hunting
Ilex aquifolium(aka Ilex opaca; European holly; American holly) Caution
Extract from the leaves of this evergreen tree are often used in skin conditioners. Interestingly, according to Winter [7th ed., pgs 297, 518], the leaves have theobromine in them, which is a compound very similar to caffeine, that is also found in chocolate, cocoa butter, and tea. Theobromine oil may cause allergic reactions for those who are sensitive to it.
See also:Theobroma oil Source(s): Winter
Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract(aka Yerba Mate; Paraguay tea) Caution
Often used as a hair and skin conditioner. According to Winter [7th ed., pg 297], this is similar to Ilex aquifolium, which may cause an allergic reaction in those sensitive to theobroma oil.
See also:Theobroma oilIlex aquifolium Source(s): Winter
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate(aka IPBC) Caution
Used as a preservative. Begoun pg 1295. Fine in products that aren't going to be used as sprays. In Europe, it can't be used for oral care, lip-care products or lotions. IPBC is a whitish crystalline powder that contains iodine. It works by slowing down bacterial growth. It has been tested safe for humans according to the CIR Expert Panel, but should not be used in aerosol products. Winter pg 301-302. —I put a caution here, because there are some concerns about it being a bit more of an irritant than other preservatives (although all preservatives are potential irritants). Just beware of how this is being applied (you might not want to use it if it's in a hair spray , or for a child). —T See also:Preservative Source(s): BegounWinter http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=384
Ion Okay
An atom or group of atoms with a charge (either positive or negative) as a result by gaining or losing ions (electrons have a negative charge, so to gain an extra one means gaining a negative charge) in relation to its number of protons (positively charged particles in the nucleus).
See also:Ion Source(s): http://whatis.techtarget.com/definition/0NULLsid9_gci85989400.html
Ionone Caution
Often used as a flavor in food, or as a scent in perfumes. It's made from an Australian shrub called boronia. It's usually pale yellow, and smells much like cedar or violets. It sometimes causes allergic reactions [Winter pg 302].
Source(s): Winter
Irritant Caution
There is more and more research showing that irritation damages the skin. Whether the irritation is from a drying cleanser, a fragrance, or essential oils, it all adds up to irritation. Even if we might not feel irritation, that doesn't mean irritation isn't taking place. Just because we don't feel irritation doesn't mean it isn't happening. Skin may not always let us know if damage is occuring, such as wrinkling that comes from sun damage. Though some substances (such as preservatives) may cause irritation, it is much safer to use a product that has a preservative in it than use one that doesn't have one. Fragrances, or even natural oils with strong fragrances, are known to be a big source of irritation or skin sensitivity. Since these do not serve a true purpose in products other than for marketing, adding fragrance, or a "tingle", the potential for irritaion that comes with these isn't worth it. The more sources of irritation that can be eliminated, the better. Pgs 16-17, 40. —I'm torn about this, because I love my products to have a great scent, and so far, I haven't had any problems with skin sensitivity. However, after what I've been reading, I want to at least present this information here, so you can decide for yourself. Also, it is best to keep potential irritants off a baby's skin or scalp.—T Source(s): Begoun
Isobutylparaben Okay
A preservative used frequently in hair products, skin care and makeup. The CIR has determined this preservative to be safe for use in cosmetics [Winter pg 304].
Source(s): Winter
Isododecane Okay
A thickener made from gel that leaves a matte feel [Begoun (Hair) pg 417]. According to Winter [pg 305, 288], Isododecane is also used as a fragrance ingredient often found in hairsprays, and even lipsticks. It works by forming a water-repellent film that prevents water from evaporating from the surface it's used on.
Source(s): Begoun Winter
Isoeugenol Caution
Colorless, oily liquid. Has a clove scent. A component of ylang ylang oil and nutmeg oil. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.doc
Isohexadecane Okay
Used as a cleanser, emulsifier and thickener [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1295].
Source(s): Begoun
Isoleucine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Isopropanol(aka Rubbing alcohol; Isopropyl alcohol) Avoid
Very drying for hair. See Isopropyl alcohol.
See also:Isopropyl alcohol
Isopropyl alcohol(aka Rubbing alcohol, Isopropanol) Avoid
Drying alcohol. The mixture of ethanol and water is also known as "rubbing alcohol" [Begoun (Hair) pg 93].
See also:Alcohol Source(s): Begoun
Isostearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate(aka Quaternium-32) Okay
An amber colored, water soluble liquid used to lubricate and soften the hair, making it more manageable. It is known to improve sheen, and reduce fly-away hairs due to static electricity [Hunting (Conditioning) pg251-252].
See also:Quaternary ammonium compound Source(s): Hunting
Isostearyl alcohol(aka Isooctadecyl alcohol) Okay
Used as an emollient and moisturizer, as well as for conditioning. Colorless and odorless liquid that is not water soluble. Considered more stable than oleyl alcohol [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 251]. According to Winter (pg 308), this is very similar to Stearyl alcohol.
See also:Stearyl alcohol Source(s): HuntingWinter
Japanese Honeysuckle Extract(aka Lonicera Japonica; Lonicera Caprifolium Var. Caprifolium Extract) Okay
Honeysuckles usually have tubular flowers and many varieties are fragrant. Often used in perfumes, as well as helping with rashes such as poison oak. The flowers are harmless, but the fruits are considered toxic when eaten [Winter 7th ed., pg 282].
Jojoba liquid wax(aka Jojoba oil; Simondsia chinensis; Buxus chinensis) Good
Please see Jojoba oil.
See also:Jojoba oil
Jojoba Oil(aka Jojoba Liquid Wax; Simmondsia Chinensis; Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil; Buxus chinensis) Good
Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax, not an oil. It's taken from the bean-like seeds of a shrub native to deserts in the Western US (Simmondsia chinensis). It's used as an emollient, and not known to be toxic or irritating. It's a pale to golden yellow, very little scent, and isn't water soluble. This is also a very stable oil, and doesn't become rancid [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 253-254; Winter 7th ed., pg 312].
Emollient oil. Surprisingly, it doesn't penetrate like olive oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, or meadowfoam seed oil. Polyunsaturated oil. More open structure so it doesn’t pass through the layers of cuticle easily. It has little effect on the cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. And nothing can repair hair once it's been damaged [Beauty Brains book pg 7 (quoting from an article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science 52, pgs 169-184), 2001)].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another conditioner I've been using regularly for about five years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Juniper oil Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Kaolin Caution
Clay. Dries out the hair. In larger concentrations will chip away at the cuticle as it dries.
Source(s): Begoun
Karite(aka Shea Butter, Butyrospermum parkii) Okay
Edible, slightly yellow to ivory colored emollient fat from the nut of the West African shea tree. Used for moisturizing and softening.
Source(s): http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1P3-583526661.html
Kathon CG (aka Methylchloroisothiazolinone/ Methylisothiazolinone) Caution
A preservative used in cosmetics, and hair care products. It's found to be very effective against a wide range of microbes in very small amounts. May be a skin irritant or cause skin sensitization, especially in women [Winter pg 313].
See also:PreservativeMethylchloroisothiazolinone/ Methylisothiazolinone Source(s): Winter
Keratin(aka Keratin protein; Keratin polypeptides; Protein) Okay
Keratin is a type of protein found in hair, wool, feathers and horn, fingernails and skin (skin gives a softer type of keratin, with a smaller keratin content). Depending on where the keratin has come from, they are each made of different types of amino acids. Some types of keratin are better at conditioning than others ( My sources don’t list which types of Keratin are better at conditioning than other types, so I’m still looking into this—T). Keratin is known for having great coating abilities. This means they don’t wash out of hair as easily as silk amino acids. Also, they don’t flake on your hair the way collagen proteins can [Hunting (Conditioning) pages 349-352 & 256-257].
Since hair is mostly made of the protein Keratin, many products claim that because they have Keratin in them, they can repair or heal your hair. This is not true. For one thing, Keratin doesn't cling well to hair, even in products that are left in your hair. However, if the Keratin is broken down so it clings better, it's no longer Keratin anyway( it's now chains of amino acids instead). All that being said, at best, all Keratin can do is condition your hair. It can not repair it [Begoun (Hair-Care) pg.83].
See also:Keratin Amino AcidsProtein Source(s): HuntingBegounSchueller
Keratin Amino Acids Caution
Used for conditioning, moisturizing, known to make hair glossy, give it more body, and also for its marketing appeal (natural ingredient as well as hair is made from this). It’s a strong humectant, and pulls water into the hair. This is made from a mixture of amino acids, the most common in this mixture are Glutamic acid, Serine, Proline, Arginine, Threonine, and Aspartic acid. Cystine is often removed because it tends to fall to the bottom of the product and then starts to smell over time.
Keratin is broken down into amino acids using Hydrochloric acid. After the Keratin is broken down with Hydrochloric acid, it is neutralized with Sodium hydroxide. The acid and the base make a salt. Therefore, Keratin amino acids may have an extremely high salt content that may contain up to 50% salt. It’s sold as a brown paste or powder [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 255].
See also:KeratinAmino acidsProteinSodium chloridesodium hydroxide Source(s): Hunting
Ketoconazole Okay
Treatment for dandruff (Nizoral uses this). Good at kiiling the microbes believed to cause dandruff; Ketoconazole is a little more effective that others. Pg 65.
Source(s): Begoun
Kukui nut oil(aka Aleurites moluccana) Okay
Emollient oil from a plant native to Hawaii.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Lactic acid(aka AHA) Okay
Lactic acid is used in hair care products mainly to adjust the pH, but may also be used as a humectant.
Lactic acid occurs in sour milk through fermenting lactose, but it's also prepared commercially. Since it is considered safe (in small doses), it is often used to adjust the pH in products. Since it also somewhat increases the moisture content in hair in small amounts, this is an added benefit to including it. In high enough concentrations, it can harm your hair, but in the small concentrations usually used in hair products (it usually appears at the bottom of the ingredients list, meaning there isn't much of it in there), it's fine [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 258].
See also:pHHumectant Source(s): Hunting
Lanette 16(aka Cetyl alcohol) Okay
Thickener and emollient with a soft, waxy feel.
See also:Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin(aka Wool wax; Wool grease; Wool fat) Okay
Lanolin is a refined emollient wax (not technically an oil) that comes from the oil glands of sheep that is similar to the oil from human oil glands. Used in lots of products from makeup, eye creams and hair products. Lanolin contains about 30% water, so it is often used to keep skin moisturized by preventing water loss from it. It is also used for keeping the oil and water components in products from separating.
Advertisers have found that putting it in products sells them, often claiming it works better than other oils, but there is little scientific proof this is true. However, for sensitive skin, it may cause allergic reaction such as rashes or breakouts. Otherwise, it is an excellent moisturizer for hair and skin, second in preventing water loss only to petrolatum, according to one study. However, in rinse-off products, this does not apply since the lanolin is being washed off.
Lanolin is a pale yellow and is insoluble in water, though, interestingly, it can absorb nearly twice its own weight in water. It is soluble in oil. It has a distinctive scent and can be sticky and hard to spread [Winter (7th ed) pgs 319-320; Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 259-260].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Lanolin Oil(aka Liquid lanolin; Dewaxed lanolin) Okay
Lanolin oil is made by removing from the normally waxy lanolin its solid components. Found in many cosmetics, skin products, soaps, moisturizers, and hair products. Its used as an emollient that works well with hair and skin. The advantage it has over Lanolin is that it is less sticky, and spreads more smoothly [Winter (7th ed) pg 320; Hunting (Conditioning) pg 264].
Lanolin oil is a clear yellowish liquid with a distinct scent. It is insoluble in water.
See also:Lanolin Source(s): HuntingWinter
Lanolin wax Okay
Lends thicker texture to styling products. Can be sticky and leave a “coated feeling”. Pg 372.
Source(s): Begoun
Lauramide MEA Okay
Lather creator. Pg 74.
Source(s): Begoun
Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein Okay
Used to prevent fly-aways in hair conditioners due to static electricity [Winter pg 321].
See also:Quaternary ammonium compound Source(s): Winter
Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat starch Okay
Conditions hair. Quat. Also is an antistatic ingredient.
See also:Quat Source(s): http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com
Lauric acid Okay
“Lubricant and emollient, often less oily or greasy that plant or mineral oils and, therefore, give the hair a soft, velvety feel without making it feel heavy or thick.”
Source(s): Begoun
Lauric DEA Okay
Lather creator. Pg 74.
Source(s): Begoun
Lauroyl Sarcosine Okay
This ingredient foams well, so it is often used in shampoos. Sarcosines are found in starfish and sea urchins. Winter pg 322, 450.
Source(s): Winter
Lauryl alcohol(aka 1-Dodecanol) Okay
Fatty alcohol derived from coconut oil used in cleansers because it foams well. Pg 322.
See also:Fatty alcohol Fatty acid Source(s): Winter
Lauryl glucoside Okay
Used to help water wet the hair more efficiently as well as for cleansing. It is derived from both plant and chemical sources [Winter (7th ed.) pg 323; Gottschalk pg. 1432].
Source(s): WinterGottschalk
Lavadin oil(aka Lavandula hybrida) Okay
Used for fragrance. Related to the lavender plant [Winter pg 324].
See also:Extracts Source(s): Winter
Lavandula angustifolia extract(aka Lavender extract; Lavender oil) Caution
Mainly used as a fragrance, and can be found in lotions, skin and oral care products, shampoos, and conditioners. May also be used as a flavoring. This yellow oil is made from the fresh flowers of the lavender plant. Can be a skin irritant in those with sensitive skin, and also may cause a skin reaction with exposure to sunlight [Winter pg 324].
See also:IrritantExtracts Source(s): Winter
Lavandula hybrida(aka Lavandin oil) Okay
Used for fragrance. Related to the lavender plant [Winter pg 324].
See also:Extracts Source(s): Winter
Lavender oil Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Lecithin Okay
Good hair conditioning ingredient.
Source(s): Begoun
Lemon Caution
Can be drying to the hair. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pgs 74, 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Lemongrass Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Lemon juice Avoid
Drying to hair, and can be irritating to the scalp. Lemon juice should not be used to lighten hair. It has no lightening properties of its own. When it's squeezed onto the hair, being so acidic (pH of about 2), it damages the hair's cuticle layer. Then when a person sits out in the sun for the juice to "work", unprotected sun exposure also damages the hair. Sun damage combined with the acidic damage causes the weakened hair to become porous. Porous hair looses natural color (and also can split or break). Pgs 151, 414.
See also:pH Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Lemon Oil(aka Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Oil; Cedro Oil) Caution
The oil made from the pressed peels of lemons that evaporates on exposure to air. Used for food flavorings and in perfume. May cause an allergic reaction. especially if exposed to sunlight. It has been recommended by the International Fragrance Association that anywhere lemon oil will be in contact with skin that will not be rinsed off should not be more than 2% of the product it is in. There have also been recent research that shows it may have beneficial antioxidant properties for the skin [Winter 7th ed., pg 325].
Source(s): Winter
Lemon peel Caution
Drying to hair, and can be irritating to scalp. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 414.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Lemon verbena(aka Lippia citriodora) Caution
Often used in perfumes (especially soaps),[Winter pg 330, 325]. Also makes a great tea or an herb for cooking. However, this may be a skin irritant for those with sensitive skin.
Source(s): Winterhttp://www.naturalhealthweb.com/articles/Honour6.html
Leucine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Licorice extract Okay
Good anti-irritant for the scalp. Pg 526.
Source(s): Begoun
Licorice root Okay
Soothing, and can reduce inflammation on the skin. It can't do anything for the hair, though. Pg 202.
Source(s): Begoun
Lilial Caution
Trade name of a floral, lily scented fragrance. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.iff.com
Lime Avoid
Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. Pg 74. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Lime oil Caution
Irritating and possibly drying to hair. Can cause itching of scalp, especially if scalp is exposed to sunlight. Pg 363.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Limonene Caution
Component of many fragrant natural ingredients such as citrus oils (d-limonen), pine trees or mint (l-limonen). May cause scalp sensitivity. Best not to use it on a baby's scalp or skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Linalool Caution
Fragrance with a floral, lily scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant
Lippia citriodora flower extract(aka Lemon verbena) Caution
Often used in perfumes (especially soaps),[Winter pg 330, 325]. Also makes a great tea or an herb for cooking. However, this may be a skin irritant for those with sensitive skin.
Source(s): Winterhttp://www.naturalhealthweb.com/articles/Honour6.html
Liquid paraffin (aka Paraffinum liquidum) Okay
Mineral oil.
See also:Mineral oil
Litsea cubeba fruit oil Okay
An essential oil from a type of plum that comes from a small tree that keeps its leaves throughout the year, often used in perfumes [Winter pg 331].
Source(s): Winter
Lonicera Caprifolium Extract(aka Honeysuckle Extract; Lonicera japonica) Okay
Honeysuckles usually have tubular flowers and many varieties are fragrant. Often used in perfumes, as well as helping with rashes such as poison oak. The flowers are harmless, but the fruits are considered toxic when eaten [Winter 7th ed., pg 282].
Source(s): Winter
Lonicera Caprifolium Var. Caprifolium Extract(aka Japanese Honeysuckle Extract) Okay
See Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.
See also:Japanese honeysuckle Extract
Lonicera Japonica(aka Japanese honeysuckle) Okay
Honeysuckles usually have tubular flowers and many varieties are fragrant. Often used in perfumes, as well as helping with rashes such as poison oak. The flowers are harmless, but the fruits are considered toxic when eaten [Winter 7th ed., pg 282].
Lye(aka Sodium Hydroxide, Caustic Soda, Soda Lye) Avoid
Highly alkaline. Main working ingredient in hair relaxers, texturizers, and kiddie perms. Often in the form of sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxidepotassium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide. Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. Can cause severe burns on skin. Of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers.
See also:Sodium Hydroxide Source(s): BegounWinterQuadflieg http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/_twh_88.htm
Lyral Caution
Fragrance with a floral, lily scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.iff.com
Madagascar Vanilla(aka Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract: Vanilla Extract) Okay
Extracted from the unripe fruit of a vining orchid that is usually grown in Mexico and the West Indies. Usually used for flavoring food and in perfumes [Winter 7th ed., pg 541].
Source(s): Winter
Magnesium almuminum silicate Avoid
Functions as an absorbent, and therefore drying to the hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Magnesium carbonate Avoid
Mineral salt that is used as an absorbent, opacifier, coloring, or pH adjusting of product.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com
Magnesium chloride Caution
A salt from seawater after sodium chloride has been removed.
See also:Salt
Magnesium sulfate (aka Epson Salt) Avoid
Damaging, roughs up cuticle. Alkaline, and can swell the hair shaft, making hair appear thinner [Begoun].
A salt often used as a thickener in cosmetics and lotions [Winter pg 336].
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Maleic anhydride Caution
Film former/ plasticizing ingredient. Can build up on hair and make it sticky with repeated use.
Source(s): Begoun
Malic acid(aka AHA) Caution
Malic acid is a form of AHA (alpha hydroxy acid). In low concentrations (<3%),it functions as a humectant. If the product pH is high, this is a fine ingredient. In an acidic pH, it may “exfoliate” hair.
See also:pH Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Maltodextrin(aka Maltodextrine) Caution
A sugar from plant sources made from liquefying (the hydrolysis of) starch. Used as a coating, a conditioner, but also as an absorbent [Winter (7th ed., pg 338; Gottschalk pg 1505-1507]. I'm putting this as a caution since it functions as a film-former (which can mean stickiness), and as an absorbant, which makes me worry that it's drying to our hair.— T See also:Hydrolyzed Source(s): WinterGottschalk
Malva sylvestris (mallow) extract(aka Mallow extract) Okay
Tall herbaceous plant with showy rose-colored flowers often growing wild in fields. The extract is pinkish and can be used for coloring or as a skin conditioner [Winter 7th edition pg 338].
Source(s): Winterhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malva_sylvestris
Marigold oil(aka Calendula extract; Calendula oil) Caution
See Calendula extract.
See also:Calendula extract
Marjoram Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil Okay
This is the oil from the fruit of a plant in the palm family [Winter 7th ed., pg 342].
Source(s): Winter
Meadowfoam Seed Oil Okay
Very good moisturizing plant oil. It can partially penetrate the hair's cortex, so it may make hair a bit stronger. However, it has little effect on the cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. And nothing can repair hair once it's been damaged. Beauty Brains book pg 7 (quoting from an article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science 52, pgs 169-184), 2001)
Source(s): Beauty Brains
Medicago sativa leaf extract(aka Alfalfa leaf extract; Lucerne) Okay
Gives beverages a maple flavoring. Used in cosmetics for vitamins and proteins. Alfalfa is a commonly grown crop for feeding livestock [Winter 7th edition pg. 55] and as a "green manure" for organic gardening.
Mentha piperita(aka Mentha piperita leaf extract; Brandy mint) Caution
See Peppermint.
See also:Peppermint
Menthol Caution
Menthol is used in tons of products ranging from perfumes, creams, hair products, after-shave lotions, and body rubs. It gives skin a "cool" feeling. Made from peppermint, other mint oils, or even synthetically. Though it can numb in small doses, in concentrations higher than 3% it can be irritating, and if continued, can even cause "changes in all layers of the mucus membranes."
According to Winter [7th ed.,pg 345], the FDA in 1992 said that menthol has not been shown safe for some of the claims it's been given in over the counter products (such as treating fever blisters, cold sores, poison ivy and oak, as well as insect bites, and even in astringents [Winter 7th ed., pg 345].
Some may find it to be irritating to the scalp. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun (Cosmetics 7th ed.,pg 1123].
See also:Irritant Source(s): BegounWinter
Methacrylate copolymer Caution
Sticky film former. Can build up over time, making hair feel sticky. Pg 200.
Source(s): Begoun
Methionine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Methoxypropanediol Caution
Combination of menthol and propylene glycol that can “enhance” the penetration of menthol into the skin. Not good for a leave-in because it could cause increased irritation of the menthol on the scalp. Pg 467.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Methylchloroisothiazolinone(aka Kathon CG (When used with methylisothiazolinone)) Caution
Most of the information and research on this ingredient is when it's used in combination with Methylisothiazolinone. Please see Methylchloroisothiazolinone/ Methylisothiazolinone.
Widely used preservative found in hair, bath, and skin care products that may irritate sensitive scalps. It was used to replace formaldehyde as a preservative in products [Winter pg 351]. — This is in many of the conditioners I've been using for years, and I’ve had no problems.—T
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another I've been using regularly for five (even though I'm sure it's in there in a very teeny amount). It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Methylchloroisothiazolinone/ Methylisothiazolinone(aka Kathon CG ) Caution
Most research that's been done on these two preservatives have been done on how Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone work together.
These preservatives are known to be corrosive to skin, irritating to eyes, and toxic to fish. However, in the low doses of it used in cosmetics, they haven't been found to be irritating so long as it isn't used in concentrations above 0.12 percent.
The reason these two ingredients are so often found together is because when they are combined, the kill off nearly all microbes, and not much of them are needed to do so. They also work over a wide range of product pHs.
When these two ingredients are sold as a ready-made mixture, Magnesium nitrate (as well as a little Magnesium chloride) is often added to them (though it's not usually listed in ingredient lists as being there) [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 276-277].
Methyldibromo glutaronitrile Avoid
This is a preservative. It's known to cause allergic reactions with skin contact, and even cause eczema. This ingredient is "activated" by sunlight, and may negate any sun-blocking abilities when it's used in sunscreen [Winter 7th ed.,pg 349-350].
See also:Preservative Source(s): Winter
Methylisothiazolinone(aka Kathon CG (when used with methylchloroisothiazolinone)) Caution
Most of the information and research on this ingredient is when it's used in combination with Methylchloroisothiazolinone. Please see Methylchloroisothiazolinone/ Methylisothiazolinone.
Widely used preservative found in all kinds of products including moisturizers, hair products, baby products, and cleansers that may irritate sensitive scalps, but otherwise hasn't been found to irritate skin when used in recommended doses [Winter pg 352]. — This is in many of the conditioners I've been using for years, and I’ve had no problems.—T
Because this is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another I've been using regularly for about five years (even though I'm sure it's in there in a very teeny amount). It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Methylparaben Okay
Paraben preservative.
See also:Preservative
Mica Okay
Adds shimmer or sparkle.
Source(s): Begoun
Microcrystalline wax Okay
Plastic-like wax from petroleum. Used to thicken products to be semi-solid.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com
Milk conditioner(aka Milk protein; Casein) Okay
Milk has been believed to be conditioning since the time of Cleopatra. Casein is the protein that's found in milk. Actually, cow's milk only has about 3% casein in it, which is extracted by acidifying cow's milk. Often the casein is sold as a white powder or grainy solid that's really difficult to dissolve in water.
Since casein doesn't dissolve easily in water, it isn't absorbed into the hair, so it can't be used for conditioning. this means it's mostly put in to make the product opaque, as well as for its marketing appeal. However, if the casein is broken down through hydrolysis, turning it into hydrolyzed milk protein, then this actually is a good conditioning ingredient. Often, when a product says it has milk in it, the product may really have hydrolyzed milk protein in there to do the job [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 280].
Source(s): Hunting
Milk protein(aka Casein; Milk conditioners) Okay
Casein is the protein that's found in milk. Actually, cow's milk only has about 3% casein in it, which is extracted by acidifying cow's milk. Often the casein is sold as a white powder or grainy solid that's really difficult to dissolve in water.
Since casein doesn't dissolve easily in water, it isn't absorbed into the hair, so it can't be used for conditioning. this means it's mostly put in to make the product opaque, as well as for its marketing appeal. However, if the casein is broken down through hydrolysis, turning it into hydrolyzed milk protein, then this actually is a good conditioning ingredient. Often, when a product says it has milk in it, the product may really have hydrolyzed milk protein in there to do the job [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 280].
Source(s): Hunting
Mineral oil(aka Paraffinum liquidum; Huile Mineralé; Liquid Petrolatum; Paraffin oil; White oil) Okay
Used as a lubricant in cosmetics, made from Petroleum. It's transparent, colorless, tasteless and odorless. When applied, it stays on top of the skin, leaving a shiny and protective layer. One of the most common ingredients in creams, makeup, baby products, facial creams, aftershave lotions. However, it might cause breakouts in skin [Winter 7th ed., pg 356].
Considered non-toxic and non-irritating. Oily liquid which is not water-soluble. It's used so often in products because it's inexpensive, stable, and has no color or fragrance. Creates a barrier on skin or hair to protect from water loss, so this keeps whatever it is put on from drying out [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 280-281].
Considered a very mild and harmless ingredient. A good conditioning ingredient, providing slip so the comb glides through hair more easily. This ingredient has gotten an undeserved reputation for being harmful. For more information, see mineral oil.
See also:Petroleum Source(s): BegounWinterHunting
Mink oil Good
An emollient oil from the mink. Mostly used in products because it sounds exotic, natural, and luxurious. Not known to be irritating to skin. This is a pale yellow nearly odorless liquid which isn't water soluble. The oil is quickly absorbed in the skin without feeling too oily, and it doesn't go bad very quickly [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 283].
Not known to be any more effective than any other type of oil [Winter 7th ed., pg 356-357].
Source(s): HuntingWinter
Myristyl alcohol Okay
“Lubricant and emollient, often less oily or greasy that plant or mineral oils and, therefore, give the hair a soft, velvety feel without making it feel heavy or thick.”
See also:Fatty alcohol Source(s): Begoun
Myroxylon Pereirae(aka Balsam of Peru) Okay
A naturally derived fragrance made from tree resin. A study done by the Mayo clinic lists this as #7 of the top ten ingredients that can cause irritation. Beauty Brains pg 156. I'm putting this as an Avoid, because not only is it irritating, but it's also a resin, which are known to build up in the hair and make it brittle, dry, or sticky.—T See also:Irritant Source(s): Beauty Brains
Neroli Caution
Orange blossom that may irritate sensitive skin. Best not to use on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Neroli oil Caution
Fragrant plant oil that may irritate sensitive skin. Best not to use on a baby's skin.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Nettle Okay
Plant-based anti-inflammatory for scalp. Pg 236.
Source(s): Begoun
Niacinamide(aka Vitamin B3; Niacin; Nicotinic acid) Okay
Used as a hair conditioning ingredient [Winter pg 366]. A white, odorless, crystal solid that's water soluble. This is found in tiny amounts in living cells. It's not likely that the teeny amounts used in a product can do anything for the hair, so it's mainly put in products for its marketing appeal, because it is a vitamin [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 289-290].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Nicotinamide(aka Vitamin B3; Niacin; Nicotinic acid; Niacinamide) Okay
Used as a hair conditioning ingredient [Winter pg 366]. A white, odorless, crystal solid that's water soluble. This is found in tiny amounts in living cells. It's not likely that the teeny amounts used in a product can do anything for the hair, so it's mainly put in products for its marketing appeal, because it is a vitamin [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 289-290].
See also:Vitamins Source(s): HuntingWinter
Nicotinic acid N-oxide Okay
Marketed as a growth ingredient, but there is no evidence to support this.
Source(s): Begoun
Nitrosamines Avoid
When chemicals with nitrates combine with those with an amine, they more form carcinogens (cancer-causing ingredients). "Nitrosamines have been found in air, water, tobacco smoke, cured meats, cosmetics, pesticides, and alcoholic beverages. It is also believed that they may be formed in our bodies." Pg 368.
See also:Amines Source(s): Winter
Non-ionic Okay
Molecules with a neutral charge.
See also:Ion
Nonoxynol-10(aka PEG-10 nonyl phenol) Caution
Used to keep the ingredients in a product from separating. This can be a skin irritant and a severe eye irritant. Often used in dish washing liquids because it foams and cleanses so well [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 290-291].—In conditioners, this may be used to help the conditioner break up and wash down the drain. If it's really far down the ingredients list, it's probably in a product in such small amounts that it wouldn't be a problem. However, I would use extreme caution using this on a child because of what an eye irritant it is.—T See also:Emulsion stabilizer Source(s): Hunting
Oak bark Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Oat bran extract(aka Avena sativa; Oatmeal husk (extract)) Okay
Oat bran is made from the broken-up seed coat of the Avena sativa plant [Winter 7th ed., pg 379].
When oat is turned into flour, the husk is removed in this process. It's this husk that's then used to make Oat bran extract. The husk is a good source of a polysaccharide (pentosan), however, since it's being used in a rinse, it's usually rinsed out of the hair before it can do much [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 293].
See also:OatsPolysaccharideStarch Source(s): WinterHunting
Oat flour(aka Avena sativa; Oatmeal) Okay
Oat flour is made from the ground-up seeds of the Avena sativa (oat) plant. The flour is often light beige to slightly green, with a slight scent and starchy taste. Often used for its soothing properties [Winter 7th ed., pg 379].
Oat flour contains vitamin E, and more fat that other cereals. It may have some emollient properties [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 293].
See also:StarchOatsVitamin E Source(s): WinterHunting
Oat peptide(aka Avena sativa peptide) Okay
Oat peptide is a string of amino acids made from the broken or ground up seeds of the Avena sativa (oat) plant. Though peptides serve an important function of communication in the body, there is nothing they can do for hair, since hair is dead.
See also:OatsPeptide
Oats(aka Avena sativa; Oat bran; Oat flour; Oatmeal) Okay
Oat bran, Oat flour, and Oatmeal are all made from the broken or ground up seeds of the Avena sativa plant. The flour is often light beige to slightly green, with a slight scent and starchy taste. Often used for its soothing properties [Winter 7th ed., pg 379].
Source(s): Winter
Occlusive Okay
When used to describe an ingredient, it means that it's moisturizing because it prevents water loss.
Ocimum basilicum(aka asil extract; Basil leaf extract; Ocimum basilicum extract) Caution
See Basil.
See also:Basil
Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane(aka Octamethylcyclotertraziloxane) Okay
Colorless, odorless, non-oily feeling silicone. One of the most highly studied chemicals in products being sold. Safety assessments have shown it safe for regular product use. —I found this ingredient looking up the ingredients of a conditioner. I think they meant octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, because "octamethycyclotertraziloxane" doesn't seem to exist except on their ingredients label. —T See also:Silicone Source(s): http://www.sehsc.com/d4.asp
Octyl dimethyl PABA Okay
Sunscreen that may cause scalp irritation. There is no way to know if sunscreens are in any way effective on hair, since there is no FDA regulation for sun protection in hair products. Pg 408.
Source(s): Begoun
Octyl palmitate Okay
Used as an emollient, and to thicken products.Winter pg 373, Begoun pg 1313.
Source(s): BegounWinter
Octyl palmitrate Okay —I haven't been able to find out much information on this ingredient, and I wonder if this isn't a misspelling of octyl palmitate. I'm still looking for more information.—T
Oils Okay
Such as Vaseline, mineral oil, plant oils, shea butter, lanolin, caster oil): These are emollient oils, and have great conditioning ability for hair, but use caution when putting them on your scalp. They can clog hair follicles, which can stunt the growth of healthy hair. Pg 163.
Source(s): Begoun
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract(aka Olive Oil; Olive fruit oil; Olea Europaea Oil) Good
See Olive Oil.
See also:Olive Oi
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil(aka Olive Oil; Olive fruit oil) Good
See Olive Oil
See also:Olive oil Source(s): Hunting
Olealkonium Chloride Okay
This is a Quaternary Ammonium Compound that's used for hair conditioning, to reduce static electricity in the hair, and also for some disinfecting properties. It can be produced from animal, plant, or even from synthetic sources [Gottschalck 12th ed., pg 1704]
See also:Quaternium ammonium compound Source(s): Gottschalck
Oleamidopropyl betaine Okay
Cleanser, used for detangling and conditioning
Source(s): http://www.anwers.google.com
Olefin sulfonate Avoid —If this is another way of saying sodium c14-16 olefin sulfonate, then this should be avoided. I'm still looking into this one. —T See also:Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate
Oleic acid Okay
Better at moisturizing than vegetable oils. Made from the fats and oils of plants or animals. It starts off as colorless, but when it's exposed to air it turns yellow to brown and has a rancid smell. Considered safe for use in cosmetic products, and is found in soaps, face creams, hair pomades, liquid makeup, shampoos and liquid lip colors [Winter pg 375].
Source(s): Winter
Oleth-5 Okay
Oily, pale yellow ingredient found in fish oils. Frequently used in cosmetics. Pg 376
Source(s): Winter
Oleth-10 Okay
Oily, pale yellow ingredient found in fish oils. Frequently used in cosmetics. Winter pg 376
Source(s): Winter
Oleth-20 Okay
An oily liquid used to keep the product from separatin. Also used as a mild cleanser. Pg 376.
Source(s): Winter
Oleyl alcohol Okay
Fatty alcohol from inedible beef fat. Also found in fish oil.
Source(s): http://answers.yahoo.com
Olive fruit oil(aka Olea Europaea Fruit Oil; Olive oil) Good
See olive oil.
See also:Olive oil
Olive Oil(aka Olea Europaea) Good
Excellent moisturizing plant oil. It can penetrate the hair's cortex, so it may make hair stronger. However, it has little effect on the cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. And nothing can repair hair once it's been damaged. Beauty Brains book, pg 7 This is the oil I sometimes use to put on my ends if they are feeling a little dry. Oh, the Beauty Brains site quoted from an article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science 52, pgs 169-184), 2001 as their reference. However, when I checked out this article, it was about coconut oil instead, so I'm not sure what study they are quoting. However, I still love olive oil—T See also:Olive oil Source(s): Beauty Brainshttp://www.thebeautybrains.com
Olive Oil Unsaponified Good
This means that the olive oil has not been turned into soap (usually by adding something alkaline to it like lye) [Winter pg 384, 457].
See also:Olive OilSaponification Source(s): Winter
Orange Caution
Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. Pg 73.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Orange oil Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Orbignya Oleifera Oil(aka Babassu; Babassu Oil; Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil) Okay
See Babassu Oil.
See also:Babassu Oil
Oregano Caution
Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. Pg 73.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Oryza Sativa(aka Rice; Red Rice) Okay
Oryza Sativa is rice. Often used as an emollient in soaps and makeup because it has fatty acids. Oils, fats, rice brans, rice germ oil, and even waxes can be made from it [Winter 7th ed., pg 387]. Considered to be an invasive plant in some states.
Source(s): Winterhttp://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=ORSA
Oryza Sativa oil Okay
Rice oil.
Ozokerite Okay
Wax used to thicken products.
Source(s): Begoun
Palmamidopropyl Okay
A derivative made from the oil that comes from the fruit or seed of the African palm tree Elaeis guineensis [Winter pg 383].
Source(s): Winter
Palmamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate Okay
Used for conditioning hair, and it comes from both plant and synthetic sources [Gottschalk (12th ed.) pg 1757]. This has been a mystery ingredient. I have searched all my books, and even online, and I haven't been able to find any information on it yet. I will put here what I've gathered about the separate components of this ingredient. However, until I can find information on the entire ingredient, this can only be an educated guess. I even called Aveda (they are about the only company I see using this ingredient), and they said this was a conditioning ingredient. This isn't an objective source for information, though (it's not like they'd tell me if it was a bad ingredient or anything). This ingredient's name has an identical structure to Babassuamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, which is a conditioning ingredient made from the seeds of the Babassu palm tree. So it's looking like Palmamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate is a similar conditioning agent that's made from the oil of a different kind of Palm as the only difference.—T
Palm kernel oil(aka Elaeis guineensis oil; Elaeis melanococca oil) Good
Palm kernel oil is made from the food of the seed embryo (sort of like the white of a chicken's egg) of the Elaeis guineensispalm tree . Similar to coconut oil, it's light-ish yellow, and is edible. It's used to make edible fats, ice cream, baked goods, mayonnaise, and even soaps.
See also:Palm oil Source(s): http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/duke_energy/elaeis_guineensis.html
Palm oil(aka Palm butter; Palm tallow; Elaeis guineensis oil; Elaeis melanococca oil; Astrocaryum murumuru) Good
Excellent moisturizing oil. Similar to coconut oil. Will penetrate cortex, so it may make hair stronger. However, it has little effect on cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. Nothing can repair hair once it has been damaged, however [Beauty Brains pg 7].
Rich oil made from the middle layer of the fruit of the palm that's yellow to orange-red in color. When the oil is being processed for food, it's bleached first [Horticulture Purdue site].
A fatty oil with the faint scent of violets [Winter 7th ed., pg 390].
See also:Palm kernel oil Source(s): Beauty BrainsWinterhttp://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/duke_energy/elaeis_guineensis.html
Palm tallow(aka Palm oil; Palm oil; Elaeis guineensis oil; Elaeis melanococca oil; Astrocaryum murumuru) Good
Please see Palm oil.
See also:Palm oil
Panax ginseng root extract(aka Ginseng root extract) Okay
Ginseng is used in many hair and skin care products. See Ginseng for more information [Winter (7th Ed) pg 392].
See also:Ginseng Source(s): Winter
Panthenol(aka Pantothenic acid, Vitamin B5) Good
Form of vitamin B. Functions as a hair conditioner only. Works better in a leave-in product because otherwise it’s easily rinsed away. Can moisturize the hair to make it feel softer. Pantotheric acid is able to penatrate deeply into the cortex of the hair, but it is not able to repair hair, nor make hair strand thicker [Begoun Pgs 75, 85].
This is in two of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Panthenyl ethyl ether(aka Pantyl; Pantothenyl Ethyl Ether) Good
This is made from Panthenol, and is used for it's emollient and conditioning properties [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 308].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Pantothenic acid(aka Panthenol, Vitamin B5) Okay
Can moisturize the hair to make it feel softer. Pantotheric acid is able to penatrate deeply into the cortex of the hair, but it is not able to repair hair, nor make hair strand thicker. Pgs 75, 85.
See also:Panthenol Source(s): Begoun
Papaya(aka Carica papaya) Caution
Papaya is a tropical fruit, and it is often used in hair conditioners as well as a base in organic makeup. It contains papain, an enzyme that is used as a meat tenderizer because it works by digesting protein and even dissolving dead tissue (and I think it used to be in my contact lens enzyme solution from the '80s). If it's cooked, it's deactivated. Because of this it may cause allergic reactions and tends to dry out hair. [Begoun (Hair) Pg 73; Winter (7th de.) pg 392]. — This was in a conditioner that dried out my hair and made it mat.—T See also:Irritant Source(s): BegounWinter
Parabens Caution
A group of food grade preservatives such as butylparaben, proplyparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben. Research is inconclusive about whether these are harmful. However, it's agreed that it is more harmful to use products with no preservatives in them than products with these in them. For more information, check out: Parabens.
The Parabens are widely used to preserve cosmetics because they cause less irritation than other preservatives. Many of the studies on Parabens found them to possibly cause breast cancer, but many of these tests were on animals, and were given orally or through injections (which is not how humans usually come in contact with them). To keep things in perspective, many plants produce similar chemicals in our bodies (estrogen in high levels may cause breast cancer in some women) that are believed to increase cancer risk such as soy.
Though traces of parabens were found in breast tumor tissues, there haven't been studies to find out if the same levels of parabens are present in healthy breast tissues. No one is yet certain if the presence of parabens in cosmetics is the problem (since they are also used in foods, the parabens found in human tissue may be from parabens that were eaten instead).
The European trade association has said that the four main parabens used in cosmetics in Europe have been studied and found safe. [Begoun (Cosmetics) pgs 1132-1133, Winter 7th ed., pgs 392-393].
See also:Preservative Source(s): BegounWinter
Paraffinum liquidum(aka Mineral oil; Huile Mineralé; Liquid Petrolatum; Paraffin oil; White oil) Okay
See Mineral oil.
See also:Mineral oil
Passiflora Incarnata Extract(aka Passionflower Extract; Passionflower) Okay
Extract made from the flowers of one of the species of Passiflora [Winter 7th ed. pg 394]. On a plant-geeky note, this is the same plant family that produces passion fruit, used as a major flavoring, including Hawaiian Punch—T. Source(s): Winter
Passionflower Extract(aka Passiflora Incarnata Extract; Passionflower) Okay
See Passiflora Incarnata Extract.
See also:Passiflora Incarnata Extract
Pathenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride Okay
According to Skin Deep (see link, below), it's used for hair conditioning, and to reduce static. —This looks like a new ingredient, so there isn't much objective information on it yet. What it looks like, from comparing other ingredients made from similar components, is that it's a derivative of Panthenol, while "Hydroxypropyl" indicates it's reacted with Propylene Oxide [Hunting (Conditioning pgs 308, 240]. Steardimonium Chloride seems to be a Quaternium ammonium compound [Winter pg 491].—T See also:PanthenolPropylene OxideQuaternium ammonium compound Source(s): HuntingWinterhttp://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=704438¬hanks=1
PEG-3 dioleoyl amidoethylmonium methosulfate Caution
PEG is the acronym for polyethylene glycol. Depending on what it is mixed with, it could be a cleanser, stabilizer, or an emollient.—So far I haven't found any information on this ingredient, so I'm listing it as a Caution until I can get more data.—T See also:Polyethylene glycol
PEG-3 to -200 Castor Oil Okay
These are commonly used for emollients, conditioning, and to help oils rinse off better in water. They are also found in makeup. This is made from a combination of Polyethylene Glycol and Castor Oil. The higher the number, the more solid the ingredient is [Winter pg 389].
See also:Polyethylene glycolCastor oil Source(s): Winter
PEG-4,-6, -8, -9, -10, -12, -14, 16, -18, -32, -40, -150, -200, -350 Okay
PEG is the abbreviation for polyethylene glycol. This is usually mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols in different amounts to create a liquid or waxy ingredient. The number refers to how liquid it is, with the higher numbers meaning the substance is harder, and the lower numbers mean it is more liquid. These are often used as cleansers, emollients, and to keep the products from separating [Begoun pgs 1318, 1322-1323. Winter pg 389].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Fatty acid Fatty alcohol Source(s): BegounWinter
PEG-4 through -150 dilaurate(aka Polyethylene glycol) Okay
Made from Lauric acid and Polyethylene glycol. The higher the number after PEG, the more solid the ingredient [Winter 7th ed., pg 396].
See also:Polyethylene glycolLauric acid Source(s): WinterPEG-150 dilauratePEG-150 dilaurate
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate Okay
Used for conditioning and as an emollient. It also helps products from separating into its oil and water components. Made from coconut acid (from coconut oil) and polyethylene glycol. Not considered toxic or irritating. It's a yellowish, clear oily liquid that's soluble in water [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 318; Winter pg 390].
See also:Polyethylene glycolCoconut oil Source(s): HuntingWinter
PEG-8 Distearate Okay
Used as a conditioner, thickener, an emollient, and to keep the product from separating. This ingredient is known to be "superfatting", which means it's very emollient because it contains extra oil or fat [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 316]..
Source(s): Hunting
PEG-40 Castor Oil(aka Polyethylene Glycol 200 Castor Oil) Okay
It's used to keep the product from separating into its oil and water components, as a conditioner, and as an emollient. Not known as a big skin or eye irritant. This is a somewhat thick, yellowish to amber colored liquid that's water soluble. Known for being very mild, but may become unstable at an extreme pH, and it also has a particular odor, according to Hunting (Conditioning) [pgs 313-314]. Made from Polyethylene Glycol and Castor Oil [Winter pg 389].
See also:PEGPoylethylene glycolCastor oilPEG-3 to -200 Castor Oil Source(s): HuntingWinter
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Okay
Used for conditioning, thickener, and to keep product from separating into oil and water components. This is made from Castor oil that's been thickened by hydrogenation, then processed with polyethylene glycol.
This is an off-white solid that's water soluble in warm water, considered to be safe and mild in cosmetics. The main difference between PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-40 Castor Oil is that the Hydrogenated Castor Oil is more solid at room temperature, and it has less of a "Castor" scent. [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 318].
See also:PEGHydrogenationCastor oilPEG-40 Castor oil Source(s): Hunting
PEG-75 Lanolin Good
Made from processed lanolin so that it's water soluble. Used to keep products from separating into its oil and water components. Also used as a conditioning ingredient. It isn't believed to be irritating to the skin or eyes, and some claim it may even reduce irritation caused by other ingredients. It's soft, waxy, and yellow colored [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 319-320].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Fatty acid Fatty alcoholLanolin Source(s): Hunting
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate Okay
Cleanser that's found in bath soaps, facial cleansing creams, shampoos, conditioners, and other hair products. It can be made from plant, animal, or synthetic sources [Gottschalck (12th ed) pg 1886].
Source(s): Gottschalck
PEG-150 dilaurate Okay
Made from Polyethylene glycol and Lauric acid. Used as an emollient, a thickener. A water soluble, white-ish cream, or a waxy solid. Known as being mild, and may often be used in other products to reduce the irritation of other ingredients [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 314-315].
See also:Polyethylene glycolLauric acid Source(s): Hunting
PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone Okay
Keeps a product from separating into its oil and water components. Also used as a hair conditioning ingredient. Increases suppleness and adds slipperiness. Also added to a product to either help the product attract or repel water better. It's used to help one ingredient dissolve inside another one.
See also:Dimethicone copolyol Emulsifier Silicone Source(s): http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=1437
Pelargonium oil(aka Geranium oil) Caution
Scented oil from the leaves of the rose geranium (Pelargonium). May cause allergic reactions in those sensitive to geraniums [Winter pg 255]. May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun pg 94].
See also:Irritant Source(s): WinterBegoun
Pentaerythrityl Okay
Used as a skin conditioner [Winter pg 393].
Source(s): Winter
Pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate Okay
This is an emollient that's often used to condition skin. It works by making a barrier so water loss doesn't occur. It's also used to thicken a product. It isn't soluble in water. It's made from a form of Pentaerythritol and a blend of Caprylic and Capric acids.
See also:PentaerythritolCaprylic acidCapric acid Source(s): http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=704738¬hanks=1
Pentasodium pentetate Avoid
Can be alkaline and drying to the hair and scalp.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Peppermint(aka Mentha piperita; Mentha piperita leaf extract; Brandy mint) Caution
Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. Best not to put it on a baby's skin. Though it is often marketed as "invigorating" the skin or scalp, the tingling you feel is actually skin irritation [Begoun (Hair) pg 73].
The oil from the peppermint plant that can often be invasive in gardens. Can cause allergic reactions such as hay fever and rash [Winter (7th ed) pg 401].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Winter
Peppermint oil(aka Mentha piperita oil) Caution
Oil made from the leaves of the peppermint plant. Often used in toothpaste and as a flavoring. May cause allergic reactions like hay fever and skin rashes. The tingling you feel is actually skin irritation [Begoun (Hair) pg 73; Winter (7th ed) pg 401].
See also:PeppermintIrritant Source(s): WinterBegoun
Peptide Okay
Two or more amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) linked together, head-to-tail. Peptides are usually larger than simple amino acids (made up of up to 45 amino acids strung together).
Peptides are mainly used for signaling in the body (such as pain control) [Winter 7th ed., pg 401].
Though they are important in the body, they can't help repair hair, because hair is dead. Once hair is damaged, nothing can repair it.
See also:Amino acids Source(s): Winter
Petrolatum Okay
Vaseline is made from this. Emollient. No scientific research to show this is bad for you. For more information, see Petroleum .
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Phellodendron amurense bark extract(aka Amur corktree) Okay
This is made from the powdered bark of the phellodendron, also known as a Amur corktree. There is no reported function of this ingredient for skin or hair [Gottschalck pg 1362]. A native tree to China, Manchuria, and Japan, it has leaves with a turpentine aroma when they are crushed. It looks like it may have some antimicrobial action. I'm thinking that since there is no reported function for this ingredient for hair, it is added mainly to sound exotic, or because there is some "buzz" about it perhaps helping with cancer, but in a hair care product, it has no real purpose. —T Source(s): Gottschalckhttp://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=PHAM2http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/p/pheamu/pheamu1.htmlhttp://www.raysahelian.com/phellodendron.html
Phenoxyethanol Okay
Preservative believed to be less irritating than others. Can also be used as a fragrance [Winter pg 399].
Phenoxyethanol is mild to the skin but can be hugely irritating to eyes—though it isn't found to be irritating in the tiny amounts normally used in products. Surprisingly, it also has some conditioning and emollient properties.
This is an oily, white to off-white liquid that smells a bit like roses. It doesn't dissolve easily in water, but will in ethanol or alkaline environments. Though Phenoxyethanol kills bacteria, it doesn't kill all types of them, so it's often combined with other anti-bacterial ingredients to kill all bacteria that may form in a product. Because it is conditioning, Phenoxyethanol may be found more often in conditioners or cosmetics, or shampoos meant to be moisturizing. The problem with Phenoxyethanol is that you do have to use higher amounts to do the job, and since it smells like roses, it may be hard to cover up the scent (if you aren't wanting your product to smell rosy) [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 317-318].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Phenylalanine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Phenyl functional siloxane(aka Polydimethylcyclosiloxane; Silicone) Good
A group of modified Silicones (this means that other molecules have been added to the silicone that changes its function or characteristics). Used as a hair and skin conditioner and increases slip in products. This type of silicone gives greater sheen to hair than other silicones. They also tend to cut down on the white foam that may occur when a product is rubbed in, as well as decreasing any residue a product might leave behind [Schueller pg 179].
See also:SiliconePhenyl functional siloxane Source(s): Schueller
Phenyl trimethicone(aka Polydimethylcyclosiloxane; Phenyl functional siloxane) Good
A type of Silicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner and increases slip in products. This type of silicone gives greater sheen to hair than other silicones [Schueller pg 179].
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Phosphoric acid Caution
Used to protect the appearance of products, as well as used as an antioxident. An acid that's colorless and odorless, made from phosphate rock that's water soluble. It's often found ini hair products, nail polish, and skin care products. In high concentrations it can be irritating to the skin [Winter (7th ed., pg 409].
Source(s): Winter
Phthalates Caution
Phthalates such as Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), Dimethyl phthalate (DMP), Diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) and Diethyl phthalate (DEP) are mainly used to make products more flexible, like rubber, plastic, cosmetics, toys, or even nail polishes. Each one is a bit different, but these have been studied for years about their safety. There are concerns that these may be cancer-causing, and effect human reproduction, among other issues. Phthalates are hardly being used any longer, though the FDA found them to be generally safe for use in small doses. They are now found mostly in fragrances, most surprisingly fragrances that are in baby products (such as baby lotion, shampoo, and baby powder).
There is still ongoing disagreement and testing of Phthalates throughout the world. One reason for the confusion is that different Phthalates seem to be made differently, so a Phthalate that's found chemically safe in one country might be found to have risks in other countries because they are chemically different. The FDA has said they are safe, but there are still ongoing studies by other groups and in other countries to discover it's health risks [Winter 7th ed., pgs 410-411].
Source(s): Winter
Phytantiol Okay
An emollient conditioning ingredient, made from chlorophyll [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 330].
Source(s): Hunting
Pineapple juice Caution
Can be drying to the hair and irritating to the scalp. Pg 352. — This was in a conditioner that dried out my hair and made it mat.—T Source(s): Begoun
Piper mythisticum(aka Kava kava extract) Okay
May be anti-inflamatory, but also may cause skin irritation. Pg 537.
Source(s): Begoun
Piroctone olamine Okay
New treatment for dandruff available in Europe.
Source(s): Begoun
Placenta Okay
If these were active, it could hurt your hair's cuticle. Otherwise, they do nothing in a product.
Source(s): Begoun
Placenta enzymes Okay
If these were active, it could hurt your hair's cuticle. Otherwise, they do nothing in a product.
Source(s): Begoun
Poloxamer 101- 407(aka Poloxalene) Caution
A liquid composed of a chain many smaller molecules that gives it strength and stretch. Used to help bind water and oils together. This is on the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Panel as top priority to review for safety [Winter pg 410].
Source(s): Winter
Polyethylene glycol(aka PEG; Ethylene Glycol) Okay
This is used mainly as a humectant. Keeps products stable, and provides slip. Similar to glycerin [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1322-1323]. PEG is found in antiperspirants, baby products, hair tonics, and lipsticks. It's used to hold the product together, and is found as the cream base for cosmetics and ointments. Keeps product from going bad [Winter 7th ed., pg 419].
Source(s): BegounWinter
Polyethylene Oxide(aka Ethylene Oxide) Avoid
See Ethylene Oxide
See also:Ethylene Oxide
Polygala senega(aka Senega extract; Polygala senega root extract; Snake root) Avoid
Made from the root of a native herb Polygala senega that grows in many parts of the US. Contains foaming ingredients, resin, and salicylic acid [Winter (7th ed) pgs 419, 461]
Because it contains resins and salicylic acid, I'm going to be cautious (paranoid) and say this is probably best avoided ⎯T See also:Salicylic Acid Source(s): Winter
Polyglycerylacrylates Caution
Sticky film formers. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
Source(s): Begoun
Polymers Okay
Long molecular chains, not easily absorbed by hair or broken down. Linking and lightweight, they work by binding to the hair, creating a film between and around two or more hair shafts.
Source(s): Begoun
Polyoxypropylene Glycol Avoid
Used as an emollient, antistatic ingredient, and to keep products from separating. Made up of a mixture of Ethylene Oxide and Proplyene Glycol [Winter pg 414]. Since Ethylene Oxide is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, I'm giving this an "Avoid" status. —T See also:Ethylene OxidePropylene glycol Source(s): Winter
Polypropylene Glycol(aka 1, 2-Propanediol) Caution
Used as a humectant. It absorbs into the skin better than Glycerin, and it's also less expensive. However, it seems to irritate the skin more than Glycerin does. This is a clear, thick liquid that absorbs moisture. It's use in cosmetics is being phased out and replaced by less irritating substances such as Butylene Glycol and Polyethylene Glycol [Winter pg 414].
See also:GlycerinButylene glycolPolyethylene glycol Source(s): Winter
Polyquarternium-37 Caution
Used to keep down fly-aways due to static electricity. Also used as a hair fixative, so this means it can build up in your hair with repeated use, making it sticky or crunchy. Fine in gels or styling products, but use caution in shampoos and conditioners. There is also concern that it tends to build up in the environment.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=705113¬hanks=1
Polyquarternium-46 Caution
Used for holding hair in place (may cause flaking when combined with beeswax).
Source(s): Begoun
Polyquaternium-7(aka Quaternium-41) Good
Used for conditioning, and to make the hair more slippery so it combs better. It helps thicken a product and to keep it from separating, and to help product foam better. It isn't thought to be irritating. [Hunting (Shampoo) pgs 322, 343].
Source(s): Hunting
Polyquaternium-10 Good
Conditioning, detangling, thickening ingredient.
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Polyquaternium-11(aka Quaternium-32) Caution
This clings to hair to make it feel thicker. It also helps make hair easier to comb [Begoun (Beauty) Pg 303]. Made from cellulose. Used as a film-former (coats the hair) and to keep product from separating. Gives hair shine [Winter pg 435]. This is a resin that produces some build up. used for conditioning, to increase ease of combing, and to give body. It isn't found to be toxic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 335]. —I'm putting this as a caution because it looks like it may build up in our hair and become sticky over time. That's fine in a styling aid, where you expect hold, but be cautious of it in shampoos and conditioners. Also, this is known to increase body, which is not what those of us with really curly hair needs.—T See also:Quaternary ammonium compound Source(s): Begoun HuntingWinter
Polyquaternium-32 Avoid
Known for controlling fly-aways from static electricity. This is also a hair fixative, which means it can be sticky, and build up on the hair. This ingredient is also known to be somewhat irritating, and is on the Environmental Canada Domestic Substance List as being toxic to wildlife as well as the environment.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=705111&refurl=/product.php?prod_id=49485&¬hanks=1
Polysaccharides Okay
Polysaccharides are carbohydrates (sugars such as starch, dextrin, glycogen, and cellulose) that naturally occur in the skin, and are great at moisturizing [Begoun (Cosmetics 7th ed., pg 1138, Winter 7th ed., pg 422].
See also:Starch Source(s): BegounWinter
Polysorbate 20 Okay
Slight foaming and cleansing ingredient. Also used as an emulsifier, and for conditioning. This is too mild to be used on it's own as a cleanser, so it's often used with a stronger cleanser, or in baby products [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 336-337 and (Shampoo) pg322-323]. Lather creator [Begoun (Hair) pg 74].
Source(s): BegounHunting
Polysorbate 40 Okay
Slight foaming and cleansing ingredient. Also used as an emulsifier, and for conditioning. This is too mild to be used on it's own as a cleanser, so it's often used with a stronger cleanser, or in baby products [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 337-338 and (Shampoo) pg 323].
Source(s): Hunting
Polysorbate 60 Okay
Used to keep products mixed together. Tends to be waxy [Winter pg 415]. Used for conditioning. A thick, yellow liquid or gel that's water soluble [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 338].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Polysorbate 80 Okay
Slight foaming and cleansing ingredient. Also used as an emulsifier, and for conditioning. This is too mild to be used on it's own as a cleanser, so it's often used with a stronger cleanser, or in baby products [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 338-339 and (Shampoo) pg 323]. Used to keep products mixed together. Tends to be a thick liquid that smells a bit like caramel. Winter pg 415.
Source(s): WinterHunting
Polysorbates Okay
Group of ingredients that are slippery, create lather, and helps to dissolve ingredients inside the product.
Source(s): http://www.thebeautybrains.com
Polyurethane Caution
Holds hair in place. Can make the hair feel stiff and coated. Pg 225.
Source(s): Begoun
Polyvinyl acetate Caution
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
Polyvinyl alcohol Caution
Plasticizer. This will make your hair feel sticky and can build up over time.
Polyvinylpyrrolidone(aka PVP; 1-Vinyl-2-Pyrrolidone) Caution
See PVP.
See also:PVP
Potassium Chloride(aka KCl) Caution
Used in products as a cheap thickener. Considered to make the product a bit more stable than using Sodium Chloride as a thickener instead.
Potassium Chloride is a salt. Comes in colorless crystals that are salty in taste. Used in food as well as in cosmetics [Winter (7th ed) pg 426; Hunting (Conditioning) pg 339]. It's okay to use in products you will rinse out, but because I'm paranoid, I'd avoid using it in products you are going to leave in your hair, since salt is often corrosive .
See also:Salt Source(s): WinterHunting
Potassium hydroxide Avoid
Often found in “no-lye” relaxers and texturizers. It is still as harshly alkaline as lye. Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. Can cause severe burns on skin. Often of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers. Pg 155.
See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun
Potassium Sorbate Okay
Used as a mild food grade preservative to prohibit the growth of yeast and mold, often used to preserve wine. May cause mild irritation to the skin, but otherwise found to be safe for use in cosmetics [Winter 7th ed., pg 429].
See also:Preservative Source(s): Winterhttp://www.answers.com/topic/potassium-sorbate
PPG Avoid
PPG is an abbreviation for Polyoxypropylene Glycol and Polypropylene Glycol [Winter pg 414]. This often functions as a humectant. Since this product contains Polyoxyproplylene Glycol, that means it contains Ethylene Oxide, which is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, so I'm giving this an "Avoid" status. —T See also:Polyoxypropylene GlycolPolypropylene GlycolEthylene Oxide Source(s): Winter
PPG-1 Trideceth-6 Caution
An emollient often used for skin conditioning. It also prevents a product from separating. Since the PPG part of this product contains Polyoxyproplylene Glycol, that means it contains Ethylene Oxide. Ethylene Oxide is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, so I'm giving this a "Caution" status, since I'm not sure how much Ethylene Glycol is in this ingredient (I'm not sure whether or not there's enough in here to cause a problem, since this ingredient will be in a product with lots of other ingredients). —T See also:Polyoxypropylene GlycolPolypropylene GlycolEthylene Oxide Source(s): http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=705236&refurl=%2Fscoring%2Fdraw_brand.php%3Fbrand_id%3D619%26
PPG-2 Methyl Ether(aka Methylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol methyl ether) Caution
Used as a fragrance ingredient and a solvent (helps to dissolve one product into another) in hair sprays. Has a mild, pleasant scent.Since the PPG part of this product contains Polyoxyproplylene Glycol, that means it contains Ethylene Oxide. Ethylene Oxide is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, so I'm giving this a "Caution" status, since I'm not sure how much Ethylene Glycol is in this ingredient (I'm not sure whether or not there's enough in here to cause a problem, since this ingredient will be in a product with lots of other ingredients). —T See also:Polyoxypropylene GlycolPolypropylene GlycolEthylene Oxide Source(s): http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=705255¬hanks=1http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=1705
PPG-10 Butanediol Caution I haven't been able to find any objective information on this ingredient. Right now I will put an educated guess about it based on similar ingredients. When I find out more about it, I'll add it here.—T Based on the information I've found about PPG-10 Cetyl Ether and other PPG compounds, it looks like this is a mixture of PPG-10 and Butanediol. The PPG-10 is used as an emollient, and the Butanediol is used as a humectant. [Winter pgs 414,424; Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 130, 341]. See also PPG and Butylene Glycol. Since the PPG part of this product contains Polyoxyproplylene Glycol, that means it contains Ethylene Oxide. Ethylene Oxide is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, so I'm giving this a "Caution" status, since I'm not sure how much Ethylene Glycol is in this ingredient (I'm not sure whether or not there's enough in here to cause a problem, since this ingredient will be in a product with lots of other ingredients). —T See also:PPGButylene glycolEthylene Oxide Source(s): HuntingWinter
PPG-10 Cetyl Ether Caution
Made from processed Cetyl Alcohol. Used for conditioning and to keep product from separating. Considered nontoxic and nonirritating to eyes and skin. A light yellow to colorless liquid that's insoluble in water. It will dissolve in mineral oil. It's mild, stable and odorless [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 341]. Since the PPG part of this product contains Polyoxyproplylene Glycol, that means it contains Ethylene Oxide. Ethylene Oxide is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, so I'm giving this a "Caution" status, since I'm not sure how much Ethylene Glycol is in this ingredient (I'm not sure whether or not there's enough in here to cause a problem, since this ingredient will be in a product with lots of other ingredients). —T See also:Cetyl alcohol PPGEthylene OxidePolyoxypropylene Glycol Source(s): Hunting
PPG-14 Butyl Ether Caution
Used as a conditioning ingredient. Since the PPG part of this product contains Polyoxyproplylene Glycol, that means it contains Ethylene Oxide. Ethylene Oxide is banned in Europe and Canada for use in Cosmetics, so I'm giving this a "Caution" status, since I'm not sure how much Ethylene Glycol is in this ingredient (I'm not sure whether or not there's enough in here to cause a problem, since this ingredient will be in a product with lots of other ingredients). —T See also:PPGEthylene OxidePolyoxypropylene Glycol Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
PPG-Ceteth-20 Okay
Made from condensing Cetyl alcohol. Used as an emulsifier, and for conditioning. Comes as a pale yellow to almost colorless liquid that's water soluble and odorless [Hunting (conditioning pg 340].
See also:Cetyl alcohol Source(s): Hunting
Preservative Okay
Used to keep microbes such as bacteria, mold and fungus from growing in your products. Though many are controversial, it's believed to be much better to use products with them than without. For more informaiton, see Paula Begoun’s Problems With Preservatives?.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Proline Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Proplylene glycol(aka 1,2-Propanediol) Okay
Humectant. This is a clear, colorless, thick liquid. Can penetrate the skin better than glycerin, but is less expensive. Second in moisture-carrying abilities only to water. Can also be used to dissolve ingredients (in the way that water can dissolve them). Winter pg 428. Rumors have circulated that it is bad, but there is no research validating this. For more information, check out Propylene Glycol Begoun pg 1326.
Source(s): BegounWinter
Propylene glycol dicaprate Okay
Used as a conditioning ingredient. It works by preventing water loss. It's also used to thicken products. Made from Propylene glycol and capric acid [Gottschalck pg 1566].
Source(s): Gottschalck
Propylene glycol dicaprylate Okay
Used to condition. Works by preventing water loss. Made from Propylene glycol and caprylic acid [Gottschalck pg 1566].
See also:Occlusive Source(s): Gottschalck
Protein Okay
Proteins mostly function as humectants, and as emollients and moisturizers. These can give a smooth feel to hair and skin, but they can't repair hair. They also are too big to be absorbed into the hair shaft, but are often processed to make them small enough to cling better to the hair.
Proteins work by coating the outside of your hair, filling in any gaps in the cuticles. This can make your hair feel softer. However, even though proteins are building blocks to our hair and bodies, it can't repair our hair. —This is the same thing as dumping yarn on a wool sweater and expecting your sweater to be repaired—T Protein in no way can permanently attach to hair, and in no way can repair hair. To say otherwise is purely magical thinking [Begoun (Hair) pg 83].
Used for conditioning, and many believe it can repair hair. Protein is known to improve hair gloss, give hair body, moisturizer, and even make hair easier to comb. It may even help reduce some irritation from harsher surfactants. Because they are film forming, they temporarily can “glue” together split ends. They also can make hair feel better after damaging treatments such as bleaching, perming, and rough combing. Proteins are often put in products because of their marketing appeal.
Protein is derived from animal sources, such as collagen, elastin, milk, and keratin or from silk, soy, vegetables, yeasts, and even marine animals. Interestingly, egg, beer or milk conditioners are usually not marketed as protein conditioners, even though they actually do contain true proteins.
Some studies have found that protein can actually penetrate hair and deposit on the cortex (though nothing can bring back severely damaged hair once it has been damaged-—T). The more damaged your hair, the more protein it absorbs. What most affects how much protein is absorbed into the hair is the damage in the hair (the more damaged, the more porous, so the more it can soak up), the size of the molecules, the pH, how long the protein has been left in the hair, and the concentration of the protein being used. The most absorption occurs within 15 minutes. Concentrations up to 5% seem to work best on damaged hair.
Sometimes proteins may contain Sodium chloride (salt). This happens during the chemical reaction of breaking them down to make them water-soluble. The high salt content may mess up the stability of the products they are used in. The good news is that salt free versions are available. (The trick is finding out which variety is in a product-—T).
When proteins are used in a product, it’s actually a broken-down form of protein (peptides). The protein is able to dissolve in water only after it’s gone through a process that breaks it down (by hydrolysis). However, so long as the form of protein used doesn’t fall below a certain size, it still qualifies as protein (if the protein keeps getting broken down, eventually it becomes the amino acids that compose it. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein—long chains of amino acids are what make proteins. However, these are no longer considered proteins, and have different properties). First the protein is broken down into somewhat smaller chains of amino acids known as polypeptides. When the chains are further broken down, then they are amino acids.
When proteins are broken down by hydrolysis, they become water-soluble. This is necessary because if they are still made up of the long chains of amino acids, they are too big to really be of any use to hair. They are too big to stick to the hair. The molecules work best between a very narrow range of sizes, smaller generally being better. There is an optimum protein size that sticks best to hair (but they can’t get too small because then they no longer qualify as protein, but are now amino acids) [Hunting (Conditioning) Pages 349-352].
See also:Amino acidsKeratinKeratin amino acidsHydrolyzed elastinCollagenHydrolyzed Source(s): BegounHunting
Prunus armeniaca(aka Apricot oil; Apricot kernel oil) Good
Please see Apricot kernel oil.
See also:Apricot kernel oil
PVP(aka Polyvinylpyrrolidone; 1-Vinyl-2-Pyrrolidone; PVP K90) Caution
Used as a fixative, to hold hair together, to keep a product from separating. PVP has the consistency of egg whites [Winter (7th ed) pg 438; Gottschalk pg 2317-8]. Fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, whose function is to keep your hair in place. May build up and make your hair sticky if used in shampoos or conditioners. —T See also:PVP Source(s): WinterGottschalk
PVP/VA copolymer Caution
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
PVP copolymer Caution
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
PVP K90(aka Polyvinylpyrrolidone; PVP) Caution
See PVP.
See also:PVP
Pyridoxine dipalmitate(aka Vitamin B6, Pyridoxine hydrochloride) Okay
Though necessary in the body, this does nothing for the hair. Often in the form of a white or colorless crystalline powder. Pgs 433, 540.
Source(s): Winter
Pyridoxine HCL(aka Vitamin B6, Pyridoxine hydrochloride) Okay
This occurs in milk, liver, eggs, and cereal. There is no research showing it can help the skin, and it isn't able to heal the hair. It's put in products mostly because it sounds good. Since it's a vitamin people assume that it will have some benefit to them. [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1351, Hunting pg 336].
See also:Vitamin B6 Source(s): Begoun
Pyridoxine hydrochloride(aka Vitamin B6, Pyridoxine HCL) Okay
This occurs in milk, liver, eggs, and cereal. There is no research showing it can help the skin, and it isn't able to heal the hair. It's put in products mostly because it sounds good. Since it's a vitamin people assume that it will have some benefit to them. [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1351, Hunting pg 336].
Source(s): Begoun
Pyrmidine n-oxides Okay
Amino acid.
See also:Amino acid
Quat(aka Quaternary ammonium compounds) Okay
(Short for Quaternary ammonium compounds) Variety of ingredients that are strongly attracted to hair. Creates a temporary smooth surface that allows combs to more easily glide through the hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Quaternary ammonium compounds.(aka Quats) Okay
These are a diverse group of chemicals made from Ammonium chloride, used for anything from preservatives, detanglers, to cleansers. Winter pg 435. Quats have a unique structure that makes them attracted to hair. Because of their linking structure, they form a temporary smooth surface over the hair. This makes many of them great for detangling. A few examples of Quats are: Benzalkonium chloride, Quaternium 18, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Behentrimonium chloride, Behenalkonium betaine, Stearalkonium chloride and Cetrimonium chloride. Begoun (Hair) pg 75.
Source(s): WinterBegoun
Quaternium-15 Caution
Preservative that has had some controversy for being a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. No tests have shown it to cause problems for people when used in cosmetics. May cause skin irritation (as all preservatives potentially can). However, this one is known as being more irritating than most. A study done by the Mayo clinic lists this as #10 of the top ten ingredients that can cause irritation. Beauty Brains pg 156.
See also:PreservativesIrritant Source(s): Beauty Brainshttp://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Quaternium-18 Caution
Okay detangler [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 75]. Made from cellulose. Used to keep products from separating. Gives hair shine [Winter pg 435]. Conditions hair and helps reduce fly-aways due to static electricity. It works well even in low amounts. It's sold as a soft paste that's water soluble. Sometimes this is sold mixed with Isopropyl alcohol to make it easier to rinse off with water, though this isn't always put on the label because the Isopropyl is considered a processing aid [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 356-357].
See also:Quaternary ammonium compoundFilm-formerCelluloseIsopropyl alcohol Source(s): Begoun WinterHunting
Quaternium-19 Okay
Made from cellulose. Used as a film-former and to keep product from separating. Gives hair shine [Winter pg 435]. Also used for its great conditioning properties, and to reduce the irritation that may be caused from a harsher ingredient in the product, such as sodium lauryl sulfate [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 202].
See also:Film-formerQuaternary Ammonium CompoundCellulose Source(s): WinterHunting
Quaternium-23(aka Polyquaternium-11) Caution
Made from cellulose. Used as a film-former (coats the hair) and to keep product from separating. Gives hair shine [Winter pg 435]. This is a resin that produces some build up. used for conditioning, to increase ease of combing, and to give body. It isn't found to be toxic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 335]. —I'm putting this as a caution because it looks like it may build up in our hair and become sticky over time. That's fine in a styling aid, where you expect hold, but be cautious of it in shampoos and conditioners. Also, this is known to increase body, which is not what those of us with really curly hair needs.—T See also:Film-formerQuaternary Ammonium Compound Source(s): WinterHunting
Quaternium-27 Okay
A synthetic antistatic and hair conditioner [Gottschalck pgs 2334-2335].
Source(s): Gottschalck
Quaternium-31(aka Dicetyldimonium chloride) Okay
Smooths hair [Begoun (Hair) pg 75, Winter pg 19]. Used for conditioning, and also to keep the product from separating. Known for being an effective and mild hair conditioner. By itself, Dicetyldimonium chloride is translucent, and kind of watery. But it does a fine job of conditioning on it's own. Often, other conditioning ingredients (such as Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol or Cetearyl alcohol) are added to make it thicker and more opaque [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 179-180].
See also:Quaternary ammonium compound Source(s): HuntingWinterBegoun
Quaternium-41(aka Polyquaternium-7) Good
Used for conditioning, and to make the hair more slippery so it combs better. It helps thicken a product and to keep it from separating, and to help product foam better. It isn't thought to be irritating. [Hunting (Shampoo) pgs 322, 343].
Source(s): Hunting
Quaternium-80 Okay
Used to cut down on hair static and for conditioning. Quaternium-80 is a synthetic quaternary ammonium compound made from coconut oil [Gottshalk (12th Edition) pg 2340].
See also:Quaternary ammonium compounds Source(s): Gottschalck
Quillaja bark(aka Quillaja bark extract; Quillaja Saponaria; Soap Bark; Quillay Bark; Panama Bark; China Bark) Okay
Made from the inner bark of a South American tree (Quillaja saponaria). Found even in root beer and food as a flavoring. Used as a conditioning ingredient for skin and hair. Can clean slightly. May have anti-inflamatory properties. [Begoun (Hair) Pg 253, 270-271; Winter (7th ed.) pg 442].
See also:Saponin Source(s): BegounWinter
Quillaja bark extract(aka Quillaja Saponaria; Soap Bark; Quillay Bark; Panama Bark; China Bark) Okay
See Quillaja bark.
See also:Quillaja bark
Quillaja Saponaria(aka Quillaja bark extract; Soap Bark; Quillay Bark; Panama Bark; China Bark) Okay
See Quillaja bark.
See also:Quillaja bark
Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract(aka Quillaja bark extract; Quillaja Saponaria; Soap Bark; Quillay Bark; Panama Bark; China Bark) Okay
See Quillaja bark.
See also:Quillaja bark
Quinoa extract(aka Chenopodium quinoa extract) Okay
Made from the leaves and flowers of the quinoa plant. Contains amino acids used for hydrating and softening [Winter pg 436].
See also:Extracts Source(s): Winter
Quinoa oil(aka Quinoa seed extract, Chenopodium quinoa extract) Okay
Made from quinoa grain. May help reduce fungus, and it may also be somewhat emollient, though there isn't enough research yet to prove this [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg1328].
Source(s): Begoun
Quinoa seed extract(aka Chenopodium quinoa extract) Okay
See Quinoa extract
See also:Extracts Source(s): Winter
Reducing agent Caution
A substance that gives or donates electrons easily, causing chemical reactions to take place. Reducing agents (such as sodium hydroxide, clacium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide and thioglycolates) are used to break the disulfide bonds(bonds in the hair that give the hair its shape and strength).
See also:Thioglycolates Source(s): http://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/reducing+agent
Resins Avoid
Brittle substance often made from the hardened plant secretions, or may be made synthetically. They are often found in cosmetics because they can add gloss, adhesiveness, and water repelling qualities. How toxic they are depends upon the type of resin [Winter (7th ed) pg 446].
Being paranoid, I'm going to put this as an avoid because of its brittleness and that t this may cause hardening⎯T Source(s): Winter
Retinyl palmitate Okay
A form of vitamin A.
Rice Bran Oil(aka Oryza Sativa Bran Oil) Okay
The oil that comes from the pressed broken coats of rice grains. Often used to make detergents [Winter 7th ed., pg 448].
Source(s): Winter
Rooibos(aka Aspalathus lineris) Okay
Rooibos is an African tea from a shrub in the pea family with leaves that are aromatic when dried. Sometimes used as a skin conditioner [Winter pg 89].
Source(s): Winter
Rosa mosqueta(aka Rose hip oil) Okay
Emollient oil. Has antioxident properties for skin only.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Rose Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Rose hip oil Okay
Emollient oil. Has antioxident properties for skin only.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Rosemary leaf extract(aka Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract; Romemary oil) Caution
Rosemary leaves are used for flavor and fragrance. Rosemary is a shrub with narrow, pungent, dark green leaves and purple-blue flowers. It has a folkloric reputation for stimulating hair growth [Winter pg 443].
There is conflicting information about whether it's irritating to skin or eyes. Water soluble liquid that's available in oil or alcohol soluble versions, as well as a powder. Not only has it been used as a hair tonic and growth stimulant, but it's supposed to prevent dandruff and even premature baldness, as well as enhance highlights. The leaves are known to have relatively high levels of antioxidants. However, in the very tiny amounts found in hair care products, the chances of it being able to do anything are slim [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 364-365].
Known as being an antioxident for skin, but it's fragrant components may cause skin sensitization, irritation, and even toxic reactions [Begoun (Cosmetiecs 7th ed.,) pg 1145].
See also:Extracts Source(s): WinterHuntingBegoun
Rosemary oil(aka Rosemary leaf extract) Caution
See Rosemary leaf extract
See also:Rosemary leaf extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract(aka Rosemary leaf extract) Okay
See Rosemary leaf extract.
See also:Rosemary leaf extract
Royal Jelly(aka Royal Jelly Extract) Okay
Royal jelly is the secretion from the throat glands of honeybee workers that's given to all the larvae in the colony, including queen larvae. It is a nutritious mixture of fat and proteins, and is often included in products as a magic ingredient [Winter 7th ed., pg. 451].
Basically, if you are a bee larva, this would be a vital ingredient to you (except in this form not so good because of all the other ingredients you'd be ingesting, and the royal jelly is present in such tiny and diluted quantities anyway), but as a person, not so much.
Source(s): Winter
Sage oil Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 94]. Sage oil contains thujones, which are known to be toxic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 366].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Hunting
Salicylic acid Caution
Anti dandruff ingredient (dissolves flakes). At 2% concentration, it could denature the hair shaft. Pg 493.
Source(s): Begoun
Salt Avoid
(Such as Sodium Chloride or Potassium Chloride). Corrosive. Used as a cheap thickener or to keep product from separating. Can rough up cuticle and make hair dried out and brittle [ Begoun (Hair) pg 304].
See also:Salts Source(s): Begoun
Salts(aka Ionic compounds) Okay
Many of the ingredients I look up call themselves "salts" of another ingredient. Now, I don't like to see the Sodium chloride type of salt in any product that I'm going to let stay in my hair for a while. But I also wanted to put in a more technical definition for those ingredients that were "salts of" something else, for those of you who want more information about what exactly that is. So I pulled out my old Chemistry text book and refreshed my memory:
Ions are particles with an electrical charge. An ionic compound in it's simplest form is often one positively charged ion, and one negatively charge ion held together by the attraction of their charges.
Salts are basically simple combinations of ions that are electrically balanced, so they are neutral when combined. For example,
Sodium chloride is an ionic compound because it is made of Sodium (which is positive) and Chloride (which is negative), and it is also a salt, because it is neutral when put together [Chemistry: THe Molecular Science by Olmsted & Williams (2nd ed.) pgs 64-66].
Salvia officinalis extract(aka Clary sage extract, Salvia extract, Sage extract, Sauge Sclarée extract) Okay
An extract from the leaves of the sage plant, Salvia officinalis. This is the same plant that's used as a flavoring herb in the kitchen. Sage is put in hair products more as a marketing gimmick, because it's a natural ingredient, and has folkloric appeal as an astringent, or for it's scent. It's also known to darken hair — though I'm sure there isn't nearly enough used in products to actually darken hair—T. Sage extract may contain sage oil, some grades of which may be irritating, though there hasn't been reports of the extract being toxic. [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 366-367, Hunting (Shampoo) pg 347].
See also:Extracts Source(s): Hunting
Saponification Caution
To saponify is to turn the ingredient into soap. Usually this is done by combining fat and something alkali, such as mixing together lard and lye [Winter 7th ed. pg 457]. (This is how my grandmother used to make soap—T). See also:Soap Source(s): Winter
Saponin Okay
Sugars found in plants. Saponins are able to foam in water, and can be used to keep products from separating into their oil and water components. Winter pg 450. May have anti-inflammatory and antioxident abilities.
Source(s): Winter http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ingredient_dictionary.aspx?lid=532
Sarsaparilla Okay
Can clean slightly, and can serve to keep products from separating. Pg 450.
See also:Saponin Source(s): Winter
Saw palmetto Okay
May help with hair growth when taken orally, but not yet substantiated. Pg 339.
Source(s): Begoun
Sd alcohol 40-2 Avoid
Denatured alcohol used as a solvent. It can be drying.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Sea kelp Okay
May have some water binding properties for hair. Pg 578.
Source(s): Begoun
Selenium sulfide Caution
Treatment for dandruff (Selsun Blue uses this). Good at killing microbes that can cause dandruf, though Ketoconazole is a little more effective. Can strip hair color out of hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Senega extract(aka Polygala senega root extract; Snake root; Snakeroot extract) Avoid
See Polygala senega.
See also:Polygala senega
Serine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Sesame oil(aka Sesamum indicum; Benne; Teel oil; Gingili oil) Good
An emollient oil that's made from pressing the seeds of the sesame plant (Sesamum indicum). This is a pale yellow liquid that's insoluble in water, and it tends to spoil pretty quickly. This may be even more conditioning than olive oil (but since it spoils much more quickly, may not be as practical) [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 352].
Source(s): Hunting
Shea Butter(aka Karite, Butyrospermum parkii) Good
Edible, slightly yellow to ivory colored emollient fat from the nut of the West African shea tree. Used for moisturizing and softening.
See also:Emollient Source(s): http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1P3-583526661.html
Silanedioll salciylate Okay
Organic silicone, gives slip and conditioning. Pg 407.
See also:Silicone Source(s): Begoun
Silicone Quaternium-8 Okay
Functions as a hair conditioning ingredient [Gottschalck pg 1688].
See also:Silicone Source(s): Gottschalck
Silk Okay
Used to add conditioning to a product. It is not able to repair hair, since hair is dead.
Source(s): Begoun
Silk amino acids Okay
Amino acids that are made from liquefying silk [Winter(7th ed.) pg 465]. A water soluble, amber liquid used as a humectant, but also used for its sales appeal [Hunting (Conditioning) pg. 370-371].
See also:Amino acidsHumectant Source(s): WinterHunting
Silk powder Okay
Synthetic powder used for absorption and slip.
Silk protein Okay
Protein made from silk, that may be a humectant [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg. 1336].
See also:ProteinHumectant Source(s): Begoun
Simethicone Okay
A thick white liquid, used to reduce foam. Sometimes used as a base for ointments. It's also used for gas [Winter pg 460].
See also:Silicone Source(s): http://www.thebeautybrains.com
Simmondsia Chinensis(aka Jojoba oil; Jojoba liquid wax; Buxus chinensis) Good
See Jojoba oil.
See also:Jojoba oil Source(s): WinterGottschalk
Snakeroot extract(aka Polygala senega root extract; Snake root) Avoid
See Polygala senega.
See also:Polygala senega
Soap Caution
Soaps are usually made from an oil or fat, and a highly alkaline substance, like lye (sodium hydroxide) added to it. These are very drying for the hair, and may even damage the cuticle, because they are very alkaline. Begoun pg 73. For more information, see Soaps vs Surfactants?, or soap.
Soaps are used for their cleansing and foaming abilities, and are often put in products for marketing purposes (it sounds natural). They are known as irritants, but they are also known as being safe (besides the irritation). Shampoos used to be made with soap, but when the milder modern synthetic detergents became available, the detergents replaced the soaps. Soaps don't do nearly as well as the modern synthetic detergents in hard water, and can often leave a film [Hunting (Shampoo) pgs 352-353].
See also:Irritant Source(s): BegounHunting http://thebeautybrains.com/2008/11/17/what-is-the-difference-between-soap-surfactants/
Soapbark Okay
Can clean slightly, and can serve to keep products from separating. Pg 450.
See also:Saponin Source(s): Winter
Soap Bark(aka Quillaja bark extract; Quillaja Saponaria; Quillay Bark; Panama Bark; China Bark) Okay
See Quillaja bark.
See also:Quillaja bark
Soapwort Okay
Can clean slightly. May have anti-inflamatory properties. Pg 270-271.
See also:Saponin Source(s): Begoun
Sodium Benzoate(aka Benzoate of soda) Okay
Preservative often used in food, but often also found in eye creams and toothpastes. It is sold as an odorless powder or as crystals [Winter 7th ed., pg 470].
See also:Preservative Source(s): Winter
Sodium bicarbonate (aka Baking soda) Avoid
An alkaline ingredient that can be drying to the hair and scalp.
See also:Baking soda Source(s): Begoun
Sodium borate decahydrate(aka Borax) Avoid
See Borax.
See also:Borax
Sodium carbomer Caution
Film-former that also helps a product's ingredients stay mixed together. Winter pg 465. —Since this is a film-former, it most likely will build up in the hair. Until I find out otherwise, I will put a Caution on it. This is fine in gels and hairsprays, but not good in a shampoo or conditioner.—T See also:Carbomer Source(s): Winter
Sodium chloride(aka Table salt) Caution
A corrosive in anything left in the hair. Used as a stabilizer, thickener, and cheap pH adjuster [Begoun].
When salt water dries, it pulls water from skin and hair, and therefore may irritate it. Winter (7th ed.) pg 472, says that salt workers have lots of skin rashes.
Avoid in leave-in conditioners because salt is corrosive. However, in shampoos, if it's near the bottom of the ingredients list, it should be fine. --T Source(s): BegounWinter
Sodium Cocoabutteramphoacetate(aka Sodium Cocoa Butter Amphoacetate) Okay
Made from Cocoa Butter and synthetic sources. It is an amphoteric compound, so it can act as both an acid and a base, so that it helps the product spread and function more efficiently. Often used in hair conditioners, cleansers, and to boost foam. It is a fatty acid (when combined with glycerine it will make fat) [Winter (7th ed., pg 237; Gottschalk pg. 2505].
See also:Fatty acidsCocoa butterAmphoteric Surfactant Source(s): WinterGottschalk
Sodium cocoate Caution
Sodium cocoate is known to be a drying cleanser. — If it's near the top of the ingredients list, avoid using this product. However, if it's listed near the bottom, like after the fragrances, then it's present in such a very tiny amount compared to the other ingredients, that it should be fine. Source(s): Begoun
Sodium Coco-Sulfate(aka Sodium lauryl sulfate) Avoid
Sodium Coco-Sulfate is basically the same thing as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. This means it's a harsh cleanser. Both Sodium Coco-Sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are made from coconuts, and go through nearly the same process. It's just that Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a more purified version of Sodium Coco-Sulfate. This basically means Sodium Coco-Sulfate doesn't foam as well as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, and the quality of Sodium Coco-Sulfate may vary a bit more, and isn't quite as strong as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.
See also:Sodium lauryl sulfate Source(s): http://thebeautybrains.com/2008/05/21/are-natural-cleansers-better-for-your-hair-2/http://community.livejournal.com/longhair/2356788.html
Sodium cocoyl isethionate Okay
Mild cleanser made from coconuts. Might be too gentle to remove styling products. Pg 467.
Source(s): Begoun
Sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate(aka Benzenesulfonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid) Avoid
Cleanser that may irritate the skin. Similar to sodium lauryl sulfate [Winter pg 468]. Used to cleanse and create lather, this ingredient is often used in dish washing liquids because they are cheap and powerful. They can dry out your skin and scalp, as well as cause irritation, unless other more conditioning ingredients are added to counteract this [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 358-359] —If this is very low down on the ingredients list, (especially if it's listed after the fragrance) then there is very little of it in a shampoo, so in that case it's probably fine. But if it's near the top of the ingredients list, then the product should be avoided. See also:Sodium lauryl sulfate Source(s): Winter Hunting
Sodium dodecyl sulfonate(aka Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, SLSA) Avoid
Drying cleanser and foam creater. Can strip hair of color.
Source(s): Begoun
Sodium hydroxide(aka Lye, Soda lye, Caustic soda) Avoid
Known as “alkaline perms”. Often found in relaxers and texturizers. Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. In smaller concentrations, it's used as a pH adjuster. In higher concentrations, such as in relaxers, it can cause severe burns on skin. Begoun pg 155. Of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers. If you've ever relaxed your hair without gloves (hopefully not), and noticed your hands felt really slippery but it wouldn't wash off, here's why: "The reason sodium hydroxide feels slimy is because it is chemically reacting with the fatty acid esters and oils naturally found in your skin. Essentially, you’re turning bits of your skin into soap. (The reaction is called saponification). And as you know, soap is slippery.” See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun http://thebeautybrains.com/?s=panthenol&x=0&y=0
Sodium lactate Okay
Often used as a humectant, pH adjuster, and a preservative (in the same way sodium chloride is, but has half as much sodium as salt). Colorless and odorless. Produced from the fermentation of the sugars from corn or beets, usually using lactic acid. Sodium lactate has a neutral pH (7.0). Winter pg 470.
Source(s): Winterhttp://www.sodium-lactate.com/
Sodium Lauraminodipropionate Okay
Gentle cleanser that may be too mild to wash away any styling products [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 74]. Often found in baby shampoos [Hunting (Shampoo) pg143-144].
See also:Amphoteric surfactant Source(s): BegounHunting
Sodium laureth sulfate(aka SLES, sodium lauryl ether sulfate) Okay
Okay detergent cleanser. See sodium lauryl sulfate for information on the rumored health issues.
See also:Sodium lauryl sulfate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate Okay
Used to keep oil and water from separating. It can be from plant, animal, or even synthetic sources. Similar to Lauric acid
See also:Lauric acid Source(s): Gottschalck
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate(aka Lathanol LAL, SLSA, Sodium dodecyl sulfoacetate) Avoid
Increases foam, and is a cleanser. Said to be more mild than sodium lauryl sulfate, but is still a drying cleanser. Can strip hair of color.
Source(s): http://www.epa.gov/hpv/pubs/summaries/sdmlaurl/c14936tp.pdfBegoun
Sodium lauryl sulphate(aka Sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS) Avoid
See Sodium lauryl sulfate
See also:Sodium lauryl sulfate
Sodium metabisulfite Avoid
Reducing and bleaching ingredient. Very alkaline and could damage hair. Pg 15.
Source(s): Begoun (Beauty)
Sodium sulfite Avoid
This is the ingredient used in “neutral” perms. It breaks the bonds of the hair. These are less effective than perms or relaxers. However, anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair.
Source(s): Begoun
Sodium thioglycolate Avoid
This is the more damaging of the thioglycolates. These are sometimes known as an “acid perm”, this is often used to make straight hair curly. Anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair. They are less damaging than lye products. This should never be used on hair that has been relaxed with lye chemicals, otherwise most bonds in the hair would be destroyed, and a severe loss of hair could occur. Pg 156.
See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun
Sodium thiosulfate Avoid
Chemical used to straighten or curl hair. Can swell hair shaft. Anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair. They are less damaging than lye products. This should never be used on hair that has been relaxed with lye chemicals, otherwise most bonds in the hair would be destroyed, and a severe loss of hair could occur. Can denature hair. This occasionally appears in shampoos. Reducing agent. Begoun pgs 410, 414.
See also:Lye Reducing agent Source(s): Begoun http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem00/chem00275.htm
Soluble Collagen(aka Tropocollagen) Okay
A good moisturizer. Actually contains a very small amount of protein. It is water-soluble. Since Collagen by itself isn’t water soluble, and therefore isn’t moisturizing, it’s most likely that it’s Soluble collagen that’s actually being used [Hunting (Conditioning) pages 349-352 & 161-162].
See also:Collagen Source(s): Hunting
Sorbic acid Okay
Preservative. This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Sorbitol Good
This functions much like glycerin by adding slip to a product, as well as being a humectant and a thickener [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1339]. This occurs naturally in fruits and berries, but it can also be synthetically made from the hydrolyzed corn starch. Sorbitol is also a sweetener in food. It helps cosmetics from drying out in their containers [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 385-386].
See also:GlycerinHumectantHydrolyzed Source(s): BegounHunting
Soy(aka Soja; Soya) Okay
Proteins made from soy milk and soy beans. According to Winter (7th edition pg 489), these proteins are being used more and more in anti-aging cosmetics and have been shown to have antioxidant properties as well as anti-cancer properties. This makes it great for skin care products, but it can't heal hair.
Source(s): Winter
Soya(aka Soy; Soja) Okay
Proteins made from soy milk and soy beans. According to Winter (7th edition pg 489), these proteins are being used more and more in anti-aging cosmetics and have been shown to have antioxidant properties as well as anti-cancer properties. This makes it great for skin care products, but it can't heal hair.
Source(s): Winter
Soy protein Okay
Can lightly moisturize, but can not repair hair.
Spironolaceton Okay
Effective anti-androgen when used topically. Appears in hair-growth products. Pg 552.
Source(s): Begoun
Starch(aka Farnia) Caution
This can coat hair and make it feel thicker. May tame fly-aways [Begoun (Hair) pg 437]. Starch is a carbohydrate that can come from many different plants. The most common are wheat, rice, corn, tapioca, potatoes, or even sweet potatoes. When starches are put in hot water, the grains swell. They are often used in products as an absorbent, or to lessen the strength or concentration of the product [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 390-391]. —This might not be the best ingredient for thick curls. It might make the product its in not slippery enough to get a comb through. It may be too pasty for thick curls.—T Source(s): Begoun Hunting
Steapyrium Chloride Okay
Used for conditioning and as an emulsifier. Known as being mild, and is stable even in an acidic pH [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 391]. Antistatic ingredient [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1340].
See also:Quaternary Ammonium CompoundAntistatic Source(s): HuntingBegoun
Stearalkonium Chloride(aka Stearyl Dimethylbenzylammonium Chloride, SDBAC) Okay
Clings to hair to make it feel thicker. Also used as an antistatic ingredient [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1340]. Makes hair easier to comb and adds shine. It was found safe in the '80s, but it's being reconsidered [Winter pg 490] — I'm putting this as okay for now, since I haven't heard any reports recently saying it's bad, and Begoun, who is careful to note unsafe products, doesn't say anything about this being a problem in her book, though Hunting mentions nitrosamines were found in products with it, among other ingredients, so that's why it was under investigation—T . Used for conditioning and as an emulsifier. Known to make wet-combing easier, as well as softens the hair [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 391-392].
See also:Quaternary Ammonium CompoundAntistatic Source(s): Begoun WinterHunting
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine Caution
Used to keep product from separating, but it can also be used to add slip and conditioning. Made from Stearic fatty acid. Dimethylamine can be slightly corrosive and irritating if it isn't neutralized properly (according to my trusty Organic Chemistry text book, Dimethylamines are very alkaline [pg 983]). This comes in a tan, waxy solid. It's known to cling well to the hair without being greasy [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 395 and Winter pgs 491, 208].
—I have to say that this is in most of my favorite products that I've been using for years, and my hair is fine. I'm thinking this has been neutralized enough so it isn't corrosive and is conditioning instead. This ingredient often gives enough slip to a conditioner that I can comb my hair with it, and not need another slippery ingredient in the product. However, I'm going to put it as a "caution" so you can decide for yourself—T
This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another I've been using for about five years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate Okay
This is used for conditioning and as an emulsifier (keeps a product from separating into its oil and water components). Known for being easy to rinse from hair [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 395].
Source(s): Hunting
Steareth-2(aka PEG-2 Stearyl Ether) Okay
Emollient, emulsifier and thickener. Known to be mild. Similar to Stearyl Alcohol, but slightly easier to work with [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 396].
See also:Stearyl alcohol Source(s): Hunting
Steareth-3(aka PEG-3 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2652].
See also:Polyethylene glycolEtherStearyl alcohol Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-4(aka PEG-4 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components. Used in many products including soaps, detergents, shampoos, bath oils, and hair conditioners [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2652].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-5(aka PEG-5 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components. Often found in moisturizing lotions [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2652].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-6(aka PEG-6 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components. Found mainly in bath oils and skin care products [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2652].
See also:Polyethylene glycolEtherStearyl alcohol Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-10(aka PEG-10 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components, as well as having slight conditioning and thickening properties.
This is a mild, white-ish wax-like soft solid which disperses in water. Found in tons of products such as moisturizers, hair products, baby products, facial cleansing products, makeup, hair conditioners, and even lipstick [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2653, Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 396-397].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): GottschalkHunting
Steareth-11(aka PEG-11 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2653-2654].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-13(aka PEG-13 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2654].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-14(aka PEG-14 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used to keep a product from separating into its oil and water components. Often found in facial cleansing products [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2654].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-15(aka PEG-15 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used for cleansing as well as keeping a product from separating into its oil and water components. Mostly found in colognes [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2654].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Gottschalk
Steareth-16(aka PEG-16 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used for cleansing as well as keeping a product from separating into its oil and water components. It is a white-ish waxy solid that's water soluble. Similar to Steareth-20. Found in moisturizers, hair grooming products, hair conditioners and shampoos [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2654; Hunting (Conditioning) pg 397].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): GottschalkHunting
Steareth-20(aka PEG-20 Stearyl Ether) Okay
A type of Polyethylene glycol (ether) made from Stearyl alcohol used for cleansing, slight conditioning, as well as keeping a product from separating into its oil and water components. A white-ish waxy solid that's water dispersible. Found in a ton of products, such as moisturizers, hair products, facial cleansers, makeup, and hair grooming products [Gottschalk (12th ed) pg 2654-5; Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 397-398].
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): GottschalkHunting
Steareth-21, -25, -27, -30, -40, -50, -100 Okay
Oily liquids used as cleansers and emulsifiers (keeps ingredients from separating into their oil and water components). The higher the number, the more solid. The lower, the more liquid. Pgs 491-492.
See also:Polyethylene glycolStearyl alcoholEther Source(s): Winter
Stearic acid Okay
Functions as a lubricant and emollient. It's less greasy that plant or mineral oils, so it conditions with a velvety feel, without making hair greasy.
Source(s): Begoun
Stearyl alcohol(aka Octadecyl alcohol, C-18 alcohol) Good
Functions as a lubricant, thickener, and emollient. This is a "Backbone" ingredient, which means it usually makes up the bulk of the product and acts as a carrier for the other ingredients. It's less greasy that plant or mineral oils, so it conditions with a velvety feel, without making hair greasy. Also used to keep product from separating Similar to Cetyl alcohol.
This is a white, waxy solid that's insoluble in water. *Trivia*: It's often blended with Cetyl alcohol, and then it's known as Cetearyl alcohol. Natural stearyl alcohol comes from tallow, but a synthetic form is also available. [Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1340, Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 400-401].
This is one of the ingredients I like to see near the top of a conditioner's ingredient list. When left in very curly hair it adds needed weight without being greasy.—T
This is in two of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years, and another favorite conditioner I've been using regularly for about five years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Styrax(aka Storax) Caution
Made from a sweet oriental gum that's used in perfumes. It comes from the resin from the bark of an Asian tree. Contains styrene and cinnamic acid. Can be used in food and beverages as flavoring, however, it can cause an allergic reaction when applied to the skin [Winter pg 91]. — I'm putting this as a caution, because it may irritate sensitive skin. If it's very low on an ingredients list, there probably isn't enough in a product to cause a problem for the average user (but if you have sensitive skin, or are thinking of using this on a baby, or if it's higher on an ingredients list, you probably don't want to use it. —T Source(s): Winter
Styrax benzoin(aka Benzoin resin, Benzoin, Benzoin Gum) Avoid
Per Wikipedia, Benzoin resin is a resin obtained from the bark of several species of Styrax trees. It's used in perfumes, some kinds of incense, as a flavoring, and even medicine (such as tincture of benzoin). Commonly (but incorrectly) called "benzoin", since benzoin is actually a chemical compound that does not contain the crystalline compound Benzoin.
Benzoin resin is a common ingredient in making incense and perfumes because it has a sweet vanilla scent, plus it is a fixative. Gum benzoin is a major ingredient in church incense.
Per Gottschalck [pg 2678], it functions as an adhesive, film former, fragrance, and skin conditioning often found in body and hand products, such as night skin creams.
See also:Benzoin resinBalsam Source(s): Gottschalckhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzoin_resin
Styrene Avoid
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. This is best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky. Colorless to yellowish, oily liquid with a strong smell, used to make plastics and cosmetic resins [Winter pg 500].
Source(s): Winter
Styrene/acrylamide copolymer Caution
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. This is best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
Sucrose Cocoate Okay
Made from Coconut Acid and known for being a mild cleanser and foam builder, as well as for conditioning and keeping the product from separating into its oil and water components. Not known to cause irritation. It's sold as a brown, thick, pasty liquid that's water soluble [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 379-380; Gottschalk pg 2685].
See also:Coconut Acid Source(s): HuntingGottschalk
Sulfates(aka Sulphates) Caution
These are usually compounds that are used for cleansing. They work by breaking up oils and helping them rinse away with water. There are different types of sulfates, some are gentle (like ammonium laureth sulfate), and some can be harsh (sodium lauryl sulfate). There are myths that sulfates cause cancer. There is no proof to this, and in fact the American Cancer Society's Web site says that there is no link between cancer and sulfates. This is not to say that sodium lauryl sulfate isn't a known potent irritant (especially when used in higher concentrations), because it is, as well as being harsh and drying for hair. [Winter pg 73, Beauty Brains pgs 41-42, Begoun (Beauty) pgs 1337-1337]
For information about whether you must use sulfates when you use silicones (you don't), see Paula Begoun's Sulfates, Silicones and Allergies.
See also:surfactantsSodium lauryl sulfateSodium laureth sulfateAmmonium lauryl sulfateAmmonium laureth sulfate Source(s): WinterBeauty BrainsBegounhttp://www.cancer.orghttp://www.cosmeticscop.com
Sulfonated Castor Oil(aka Sulfated Castor Oil; Turkey Red Oil) Avoid
Drying and can strip hair of color. Harsh cleanser. Sulfonated Castor Oil is sometimes used to remove hair dye [Begoun pg 522; Winter pg 49, (7th ed) pg 502].
See also:Sulfonated Oil Source(s): BegounWinter http://www.porwal.net/turkeyredoil.htm
Sulfonated Oil(aka Sulfated oils) Avoid
Strips hair color and can damage hair [Begoun (Hair) pg 322]. This is a Sulfonated oil, which is made by reacting oils with sulfuric acid. This is known to strip color from both natural and colored hair, so it's often used to remove dye from the hair (Sulfonated Castor Oil is used for this) or to lighten it for highlights. May even dry out the skin if used on it. Sulfonated oils are used to keep the product from separating, and to help wet the hair faster. Therefore, they are often found in soapless shampoos, hair sprays [Winter (7th ed.) pgs 502, 512].
See also:Sulfonated Castor Oil Source(s): BegounWinter
Sulfonic acid Avoid
Drying to hair and can potentially strip hair color. Pg 488.
Source(s): Begoun
Sulfur Avoid
Treatment for dandruff (Sebulex uses this). Good at killing the microbes that can cause dandruff, but sulfur can damage the hair shaft. Can be an irritant and very drying to hair, and can strip it of color. Pg 400.
Source(s): Begoun
Sunflower Seed Oil(aka Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) Good
Edible moisturizing oil made from sunflower seeds. It doesn't penetrate like olive oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, or meadowfoam seed oil. Polyunsaturated oil. More open structure so it doesn’t pass through the layers of cuticle easily. It has little effect on the cuticle, so you still need a slippery ingredient in the conditioner to comb through hair. And nothing can repair hair once it's been damaged. Beauty Brains book pg 7 (quoting from an article from the Journal of Cosmetic Science 52, pgs 169-184), 2001)
See also:Ion Cation Anion Ampotheric Nonionic Source(s): Beauty Brainshttp://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/573851/sunflower-oil
Superfatting Good
Defined as containing extra fat or oil. For example, soap has been superfatted when all the fat doesn't react with the lye as it's being made, leaving behind extra fat in the soap, for additional moisturizing. — Please do keep in mind that because soap uses lye, it is known to be harshly alkaline and drying, even with extra fat or oil in it —T Source(s): http://www.merriam-webster.com/medical/superfattedhttp://www.colebrothers.com/soap/oils.html
Superoxide dismutase Okay
Anti oxidant. Sometimes marketed as growth ingredient, but no evidence to support this.
Source(s): Begoun
Surfactant(aka Surface active agent) Okay
An important component in nearly all shampoos and cleansers. Used to help wet the surface better. They are also used to help remove dirt and oils from the surface to be cleaned. Keeps dirt and oil suspended in water so they can be rinsed away. The surfactant is able to get oil and oily dirt to rinse away with water because each molecule of the surfactant has a water-loving (hydrophillic) head, and a water-hating (hydrophobic) tail. Oils are attracted to the tail, and water is attracted to the head. Therefore, the surfactant molecules are able to grab the oil with one end, and the water with the other, so that the oil can be washed down the drain with the water.
Some surfactants are used as emulsifiers. Since they have both an oil-loving end and a water-loving end, they are able to hold oil and water together in a product, so the oil and water components don't separate.
There are four major types of surfactants: Cationic, Anionic, Nonionic, and Amphoteric:
Cationic surfactants: These have a positive charge. Often used as an antistatic or for sanitizing. Used as friction reducers in conditioners and fabric softeners. Anionic surfactants: These have a negative charge. They are strong cleansers—often used as stain removers in household detergents. Nonionic surfactants: These don't have an electrical charge. They aren't effected by hard water, and dissolve oil and grease well, so are often used as oven cleansers to remove baked on grease. Amphoteric surfactants: Can be negatively or positively charged depending on the situation. These are frequently used in cosmetics and shampoos because they are very mild [Winter pgs 502-503].
For more information, see Surfactants and How surfactants work. See also:Ion Cation Anion Amphoteric Nonionic Source(s): Winterhttp://www.scienceinthebox.com/en_UK/glossary/surfactants_en.html
Sweet almond oil Okay
Moisturizing oil.
Symphytum officinale(aka Comfrey root; Comfrey root extract) Caution
The roots and rhizomes of the comfrey plant are what is often used for extracts. Often used in eye makeup,lotions, cleansers, and facial products. Herbalists have recommended using comfrey externally for rapid healing of bruises, wounds and even bones, as well as for compresses. It is considered toxic if taken internally and can cause liver damage [Winter (7th ed.) pg 169].
Source(s): Winter
Tallowtrimonium chloride Caution
Used for conditioning and as an emulsifier. It often contains Isopropanol. Though it's known to be great for conditioning without leaving a greasy feel, it can also be very irritating to skin and eyes [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 408]. —Because it looks like it contains isopropanol, and that it's irritating, I would avoid this if it's near the top (or even the middle) of an ingredient's list. Also, be very cautious about using this on a child—T See also:EmulsionIsopropanol Source(s): Hunting
Tapioca Starch(aka Starch) Caution
See: Starch
See also:Starch
Taurine Okay
An amino acid found especially in human milk, but is also present in almost all tissues of the body. Considered an antioxident [Winter 7th ed., pg 512].
See also:Amino acids Source(s): Winter
TEA Dodecyl-Benzene-Sulfonate(aka Sulfonated Oils) Avoid
Drying cleanser [Begoun (Hair)]. This is a Sulfonated oil, which is made by reacting oils with sulfuric acid. This is known to strip color from both natural and colored hair, so it's often used to remove dye from the hair or to lighten it for highlights. May even dry out the skin if used [Winter (7th ed.) pgs 502, 512].
See also:Sulfonated oils Source(s): BegounWinter
Tea tree oil Okay
Used as a treatment for dandruff. Good at killing the microbes that can cause dandruff. As effective as Ketoconazole (another dandruff treatment) when used in a 5% concentration. However, it is not present in shampoos in the 5% concentration needed to be effective.
Source(s): Begoun
Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate(aka Vitamin C) Okay
A stable version of vitamin C [Begoun (Cosmetics pg 1344]. This vitamin is found in many fruits and vegetables. It is often put in products for the skin because it's known to have antioxident properties when taken orally. Since hair is not alive, it is doubtful that a vitamin can help it. Vitamin C is often put in hair care products as more for it's marketing appeal as being a vitamin, and natural. According to Hunting, the FDA asked that "Vitamin" in cosmetic ingredients not be used, and to use the chemical names instead so products won't appear to have a nutritional or medicinal function. [Hunting (Rinses) Pgs 115-116, 421; Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1250-1251].
Source(s): HuntingBegoun
Tetrasodium EDTA Okay
Chelating ingredient. Attracts the minerals away from the hair shaft and helps them rinse away. Good to use after swimming.
See also:Chelating agent Source(s): Begoun
Theobroma Cacao seed butter(aka Cocoa butter; Cocoa seed butter; Theobroma oil) Caution
Cocoa butter is used for conditioning and as an emollient. It's a solid fat pressed from roasted cocoa beans. Surprisingly, it may cause allergic skin reactions for some [Winter 7th ed., pg161]
See also:Cocoa butter Source(s): Winter
Theobroma Grandiflorum seed butter(aka Cupuaçu seed butter) Good
Skin conditioning butter made from the fruit of a the Cupuaçu tree, which is a native tree in Brazil. The pulp from the fruit is often used to make juices, ice cream, and yogurts. Theobroma Grandiflorum is very similar to the Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) tree, and cupuaçu butter is often substituted for cocoa butter [Winter 7th ed., pg 518].
See also:Cocoa butter Source(s): Winter
Theobroma oil(aka Cocoa butter; Cocoa seed butter; Cacao butter) Caution
Cocoa butter is used for conditioning and as an emollient. It's a yellowish- white, solid fat pressed from roasted cocoa (chocolate) beans. It has a slight chocolate taste and scent. Surprisingly, it may cause allergic skin reactions for some, but it's also used in foods [Winter 7th ed., pg161, 518].
See also:Cocoa butter Source(s): Winter
Thioglycolates Avoid
Category of chemicals used in perms, often used to make straight hair curly. Anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair. They are less damaging than lye products. This should never be used on hair that has been relaxed with lye chemicals, otherwise most bonds in the hair would be destroyed, and a severe loss of hair could occur. Pg 156.
See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun
Thioglycolic acid Avoid
Derivatives of this are used to make “acid perms”, often used to make straight hair curly. Anything that is strong enough to change the chemical bonds in hair will be damaging to hair. They are less damaging than products. This should never be used on hair that has been relaxed with lye chemicals, otherwise most bonds in the hair would be destroyed, and a severe loss of hair could occur. Pg 156.
See also:Lye Source(s): Begoun
Threonine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Thyme(aka Thymus Bulgaris Extract) Caution
Herb used for flavoring, even toothpaste, mouthwash, and soap. A seasoning from the dried leaves of the thyme plant. Used in products mainly for marketing appeal because it is edible and natural. It May cause skin irritation, hay fever, and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin [Begoun (Hair) Pg 94; Winter (7th ed.) pg 521].
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun Winter
Thymus Bulgaris Extract(aka Thyme) Caution
See Thyme.
See also:Thyme
Tincture Caution
Scents or flavors of mashed or boiled plants that are dissolved in alcohol [Winter pg 521]. This would be okay in a shampoo, but not great in a conditioner due to the alcohol.
Source(s): Winter
Tincture of Benzoin(aka Styrax Benzoin, ) Avoid
A tincture is made of the scents or flavors of mashed or boiled plants that are dissolved in alcohol [Winter pg 521]. Benzoin is known as Styrax Benzoin (and sometimes as Gum Benzoin), and it's the resin from the bark of the benzoin tree, an Asian tree. So a tincture of Benzoin would be the resin from the bark of a tree, dissolved in alcohol [Winter pgs 266, 498, 500]. To be safe I'd avoid this, not only for the alcohol, but Styrax Benzoin is a balsamic resin, which contains styrene. Resins can be hardening and drying, and is sometimes used to make plastic. Also it can be sensitizing.
See also:StyreneBenzoin resin Source(s): Winterhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tincture_of_benzoin
Titanium dioxide Okay
Adds opacity to product.
Source(s): Begoun
Tocepheryl Acetate(aka Vitamin E; Tocopherol) Good
See Vitamin E.
See also:Vitamin E Source(s): Winter
Tocepheryl lineolate(aka Vitamin E) Okay
Vitamin E.
See also:Vitamin E
Tocopherol(aka Vitamin E; Tocepheryl Acetate) Good
See Vitamin E.
See also:Vitamin E Source(s): Winter
Tocopherol acetate(aka Vitamin E) Okay
Vitamin E.
See also:Vitamin E
Tonka Bean(aka Coumarins; Coumarin; Cumarin) Caution
See Coumarins.
See also:Coumarins
Transglutimase Okay
Natural component of human and plant tissues, but it can not do anything to repair hair. Pg 306.
Source(s): Begoun
Triacetin(aka Glycerin triacetate) Okay
Clear oily liquid, with a bitter taste and a "fatty odor", found in some foods, such as butter. Acts as a humectant. May also function as an antifungal ingredient.
Source(s): http://chemicalland21.com/industrialchem/plasticizer/TRIACETIN.htm
Tribehenin(aka Glyceryl tribehenate) Okay
Used as a skin conditioner, made from glycerin and behenic acid. It's found in moisturizers, cleansers, and makeup [Winter 7th ed., 527].
See also:Behenic acidGlycerin Source(s): Winter
Tricontanyl PVP Caution
A type of plastic resin. Has the consistency of egg white. Winter pgs 416, 523. Fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, whose function is to keep your hair in place. May build up and make your hair sticky if used in shampoos or conditioners. —T See also:PVP Source(s): Winter
Trideceth-2(aka Polyethylene Glycol 100 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
These are all synthetic ingredients used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2795-2800]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): WinterGottschalck
Trideceth-3 Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in makeup bases [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2796]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529]
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-4 Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2796]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-5(aka PEG-5 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2796]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-6(aka PEG-6 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in moisturizing skin and hair care products [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2796]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-7(aka Polyethylene Glycol (7) Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in bath products like bubble baths or facial cleansing lotions [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2797]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-8(aka PEG-8 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2797]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-9(aka PEG-9 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in bath products like bubble baths, facial cleansing lotions, and hair shampoos and conditioners [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2797]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-10(aka PEG-10 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2798]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-12(aka PEG-12 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in hair conditioners, shampoos, hair sprays, skin care, and in hair dyes [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2798]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-15(aka PEG-15 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2799]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-18(aka Polyethylene Glycol (18) Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2799]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-20(aka Polyethylene Glycol 1000 Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used as a cleanser, to help ingredients dissolve in water, and to keep products from separating [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2799]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-21(aka Polyethylene Glycol (21) Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used to help ingredients dissolve in water that wouldn't normally dissolve in it [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2799]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Trideceth-50(aka Polyethylene Glycol (50) Tridecyl Ether) Okay
A synthetic ingredient used as a cleanser [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2799]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): GottschalckWinter
Triethanolamine(aka TEA) Caution
Sometimes functions as an emulsifier (keeps the oil and water components in a product from separating), pH adjuster (it's alkaline), and even to coat fresh fruits and vegetables. Known as an irritant in higher concentrations because of its alkalinity, so it may cause problems if it is present in higher concentrations in a product, though it should be fine in small amounts. This is an amine, and when combined with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, may create nitrosamines. However, this has not been directly linked to any health issue. The CIR Expert Panel said that it was safe in rinse-off products, so long as it did not exceed a 5% concentration. Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1282. Winter pg 524.
See also:Amines Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives Nitrosamines Preservatives.Irritant Source(s): BegounWinter
Triethylene glycol Caution
Used to dissolve one substance into another. Very similar to Polyethylene glycol. This ingredient is on the top of the list to be investigated by the CIR Expert Panel [Winter 7th ed., pg 530].
See also:Polyethylene glycol Source(s): Winter
Triglycerides Okay
Functions as a lubricant and emollient. It's less greasy that plant or mineral oils, so it conditions with a velvety feel, without making hair greasy.
Source(s): Begoun
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone(aka Amine functional siloxane; TSA) Caution
This belongs to a group of silicones that are known to have excellent hair and skin conditioning abilities, but can cause skin irritation [Schueller pgs 179-180].
See also:SiliconeAmine functional siloxane Source(s): Schueller
Triphenylmethane group Okay
Dyes that are known to be highly water soluble, but can be affected by light. The colors FD&C Blue no. 1, FD&C Green No. 1, 2, and 3 are in this group [Winter pgs 527-528].
Source(s): Winter
Trisodium EDTA(aka Trisodium Ethylenediamine Tetraacetate) Avoid
Used as a preservative (an antioxidant) and as a chelating ingredient, often found in conditioners and a wide range of cosmetic products. Slightly more irritating and corrosive to skin than Disodium EDTA, but because it has more of a strongly basic pH, this is what makes it harsher. Synthetic. Sold as a white powder that dissolves easily in water. Similar to Tetrasodium EDTA.
See also:Disodium EDTAChelating agentTetrasodium EDTA Source(s): Hunting
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Caution
Used as a chelating agent. It often appears in hair dyes requiring patch tests. Synthetic.
See also:Chelating agent Source(s): Gottschalck
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Tetraacetate(aka Trisodium EDTA) Avoid
Used as a preservative (an antioxidant) and as a chelating ingredient, often found in conditioners and a wide range of cosmetic products. Slightly more irritating and corrosive to skin than Disodium EDTA, but because it has more of a strongly basic pH, this is what makes it harsher. Synthetic. Sold as a white powder that dissolves easily in water. Similar to Tetrasodium EDTA.
See also:Chelating agentPreservativeDisodium EDTATetrasodium EDTA Source(s): HuntingGottschalck
Triticum vulgare(aka Wheat germ oil) Good
Please see Wheat germ oil.
See also:Wheat germ oil
Triticum vulgare gluten(aka Wheat germ gluten) Okay
This is the protein mixture found in wheat flour [Winter 7th ed., pg 256].
See also:Protein Source(s): Winter
Tryptophan Okay
This essential amino acid (for the body) is frequently used as a hair conditioner. It is also used to increase the protein content in products [Winter (7th ed.) pg 534].
See also:Amino acidsProtein Source(s): Winter
Tyrosine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Urea Caution
In small amounts, can be moisturizing. It can denature hair in large concentrations. One of the components of urine. Usually synthetic version used in products. Pg 651.
Source(s): Begoun
Urtica Dioica Extract(aka Nettle Extract) Okay
The extract from the stinging or common nettle plant found in many treatment or astringent products. Used in many products for it's folkloric sound. Though nettle leaves are thought to have some curative and anti-inflammatory properties, it is unlikely to have much effect when used in shampoos or conditioners [Winter pg 371-372; Hunting - Shampoo pg 290].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Valine Okay
Amino acid found in hair. This can be a humectant, but it can't repair hair, since hair is dead. Pg 84.
See also:Amino acid Source(s): Begoun
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract(aka Madagascar Vanilla) Okay
Extracted from the unripe fruit of a vining orchid that is usually grown in Mexico and the West Indies. Usually used for flavoring food and in perfumes [Winter 7th ed., pg 541].
Source(s): Winter
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil Okay
Oil made from the pressed fruit of the vanilla orchid. Used as a skin conditioner and emollient [Gottschalck pg 2874-5].
Source(s): Gottschalck
Vegetable emulsifying wax(aka Emulsifying wax) Okay
Emulsifying wax made from plant materials. See Emulsifying wax.
See also:Emulsifying wax NFEmulsifying wax
Vegetable Glycerin Okay
Glycerine that is made from plants (such as avocados), instead of from animal sources [Winter (7th ed., pg 542].
See also:Glycerin Source(s): Winter
Verbena officinalis(aka Common verbena) Caution
Flowering herb that grows as an annual in the US. The oil may cause irritation to sensitve scalps.
See also:Irritant Source(s): http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=VEOF
Vinyl Caution
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
Source(s): Begoun
Vinyl acetate Caution
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. This is best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
Source(s): Begoun
Vinyl caprolactam/PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer Caution
Resin used to hold things together. Winter pg 539. Fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, whose function is to keep your hair in place. May build up and make your hair sticky if used in shampoos or conditioners. —T See also:Vinyl polymers
Vinyl neodecanoate copolymer Caution
Sticky film-former. This is best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky.
Source(s): Begoun
Vinyl polymers Caution
A group of resins often found in nail polish and false nails. Often used in plastics. May build up and make your hair sticky if used in shampoos or conditioners. These would be fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, whose function is to keep your hair in held place. —TWinter pg 539.
See also:Vinyl polymers Source(s): Winter
Vitamin B3(aka Niacinamide; Nicotinamide; Niacin) Okay
Used as a hair conditioning ingredient [Winter pg 366]. A white, odorless, crystal solid that's water soluble. This is found in tiny amounts in living cells. It's not likely that the teeny amounts used in a product can do anything for the hair, so it's mainly put in products for its marketing appeal, because it is a vitamin [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 289-290].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Vitamin B5(aka Panthenol, Pantothenic acid) Okay
Can moisturize the hair to make it feel softer. Pantothenic acid is able to penatrate deeply into the cortex of the hair, but it is not able to repair hair, nor make hair strand thicker. Pg 85.
Source(s): Begoun
Vitamin E(aka Tocopherol acetate) Good
Moisturizing oil as well as an antioxidant. Has great benefits for skin. Made from distillation of edible vegetable oils. Can also be taken as a dietary supplement [Winter 7th ed., pg 523].
Source(s): Winterhttp://www.cosmeticscop.com/skin-care-facts-vitamin-e-scar-treatment.aspx
Vitamins Okay
These have no purpose in hair care products. Hair is dead, so it can't be "fed". However, they may have an effect on the scalp. Most of the time, the product is rinsed away before they can do anything. Pgs 201-202.
Source(s): Begoun
Walnut oil(aka Juglans nigra) Good
A non-fragrant oil made from walnuts used for moisturizing [Begoun (Cosmetics pg 1353].
See also:Emollient Source(s): Begoun
Wasabi Caution
A type of horseradish. Can cause scalp irritation.
See also:Irritant
Water Okay
Average hair care products contain about 50% to 90% water. The rest of the ingredients determine the look, feel, and performance of the product. It is standard for water to go through a purification process. "Water can be given an elevated status by using an assortment of exclusive-sounding adjectives—described as deionized, purified, oxygenated, triple-purified, demineralized—to describe what is actually just plain water." Pgs 71, 200.
Source(s): Begoun
Waxes Caution
Waxes can be made from many different things, including animals, plants, and even insects (such as beeswax). They are used to thicken or stiffen a product (like lipsticks). It rarely causes an allergic reaction, but it may with very sensitive skin, or if the person is allergic to the source of the wax. At room temperature wax is hard, but softens at warmer temperatures. Wax is insoluble in water, (and only partially soluble in boiling alcohol) [Winter 7th ed pg 546].
Waxes are often used in conditioners to form water-proof films over surfaces, which prevents water loss, which makes them moisturizing and conditioning. They are often used to stiffen products, and to keep them from separating. They are also often used for their appeal as natural products.
According to Hunting (Conditioning), some true waxes are Jojoba oil, Lanolin, Cetyl Esters, Myristyl myristate, and Stearyl stearate. "Wax-like" ingredients are Emulsifying wax nf, Ozokerite, and Paraffin [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 423].
Waxes can be difficult to shampoo out of hair if there is a high concentration of it in a product, such as one containing lots of beeswax, and may build up with repeated use. Wax mixed with clay can be very hard to get out of your hair. Many products made for starting locs contains lots of beeswax, and may be really hard to get out of your hair.
Wheat amino acids Good
Used as a humectant and conditioner. This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a
Wheat germ oil(aka Triticum vulgare) Good
A yellow to orange emollient oil made from pressing the wheat germ, used in hair conditioners. It isn't soluble in water [Winter 7th ed., pg 547; Hunting (Conditioning) pg 423-424].
Wheat germ oil is similar to many vegetable oils, and it's appeal is probably more marketing appeal. This is often used as a dietary supplement because it has a high amount of Vitamin E, and this is associated with healthiness. The vitamin E is good for the skin, and it has high antioxident properties.
Source(s): WinterHunting
White Ginger(aka Hedychium coronarium) Okay
See Hedychium coronarium.
See also:Hedychium coronarium
Willow bark Okay
Not effective in preventing dandruff. Pg 229.
Source(s): Begoun
Wintergreen Caution
May cause skin irritation and/or sun sensitivity. Best not to use on a baby's skin. Pg 94.
See also:Irritant Source(s): Begoun
Witch hazel extract(aka Hamamelis virginiana; Witch hazel leaf extract) Caution
Made from the leaves or twigs often collected in autumn from the Hamamelis virginiana plant, often growing as a small tree or large shrub. This is a popular ingredient found in many products.
May cause irritation or dryness because it contains a high percentage of ethanol alcohol (70-80%). However, the product that's usually bought in stores is actually Witch hazel water, which has 15% ethanol. Okay if it is in products you will rinse out. [Winter (7th ed., pg 549-550].
See also:IrritantEthanol Source(s): Winter
Yellow 6(aka CI 15985) Caution
Coloring ingredient often found in colognes and hair products. Since this is derived from Coal Tar, there has been some controversy about products with this in them, depending on the country. For the countries that do feel there is a problem with Coal Tar derived ingredients, so long as they are rinsed off, they are considered fine [Winter (7th ed) pg 553 & 159].
If a product has Yellow 6 in it, from my research, it's probably okay to use in a product you rinse off (unless you have sensitive skin, or you are using it on a child—then I'd say avoid it completely). However, you probably should not leave any conditioner in your hair that has Yellow 6 in it. —T See also:Coal Tar Source(s): Winter
Yellow 10(aka CI 47005) Okay
Yellow food coloring found in products for teeth, bath products, conditioners, and shampoos [Winter (7th ed.) pg 553].
Source(s): Winter
Ylang ylang (aka Cananga odorata) Caution
Fragrant oil often used in perfumes, and as a flavoring in food or drinks. A light yellow oil made from flowers that grow in the Philippines. May cause skin irritation [Winter pg 550].
See also:IrritantExtracts Source(s): Winter
Yucca Okay
Can clean slightly. May have anti-inflamatory properties. Pg 270-271.
See also:Saponin Source(s): Begoun
Zea Mays Oil(aka Zea Mays; Corn Oil) Caution
The refined oil that comes from corn. It's insoluble in water. Interestingly, when the his oil is "crude" it has good stability and conditioning properties. When refined, it becomes less stable, and easily becomes rancid when exposed to air. It's used for conditioning properties, and because it is a natural ingredient, so it has sales appeal [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 167-168].
Surprisingly, Winter says that this oil is abrasive. It's used to thicken a product and to cut down on static. It may even cause acne [Winter (7th ed.) pg 554].
Source(s): WinterHunting
Zinc Caution
Used as an astringent. May cause scalp dryness. Pg 422
Source(s): Begoun
Zinc Chloride(aka Zinc Butter, Zinc (II) Chloride) Avoid
A zinc salt used as an astringent and disinfectant [Winter Pg 551]. —In researching this, it looks like it is often prepared using hydrochloric acid. According to the Chemical Safety Data site (and also Wikipedia), in higher concentrations it dissolves silk, cellulose and skin. It's known as being acidic and corrosive. It's also harmful for the environment. Until I find out more information, I'm going to keep the "Avoid" label on it —T Source(s): Winterhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_chloridehttp://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/~hmc/hsci/chemicals/zinc_chloride.html
Zinc omadine(aka Zinc pyrithicone) Okay
Treatment for dandruff (Head & Shoulders uses this). Good at killing the microbes that cause dandruff, though Ketoconazole is a little more effective.
Source(s): Begoun
Zinc oxide Okay
Functions as a sunscreen, thickener, whitener, lubricant. Low risk of skin irritation.
Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/
Zinc pyrithione(aka Zinc omadine) Okay
Treatment for dandruff (Head & Shoulders uses this). Good at killing the microbes that cause dandruff, though Ketoconazole is a little more effective.
Source(s): Begoun
Zingiber officinale(aka Ginger) Okay
See Ginger.
See also:Ginger
1,3 Butanediol(aka Butanediol; Butylene Glycol) Okay
See Butylene glycol
See also:Butylene glycol
1-Dodecene(aka Dodecene) Caution
This seems to be used to control the thickness of a product. This is a clear and odorless liquid. Though it's found in butter, it's known to be a skin irritant.
Source(s): http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1154001.html
Quadflieg, Jutta Maria.Fundamental properties of Afro-American hair as related to their straightening/relaxing behaviour.
Diss. U of Rheinisch-Westfälischen Technischen Hochschule Aachen, 2003.
